Models > MHR-10WL

MHR-10WL Haier Refrigerator - Overview

Sections of the MHR-10WL

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Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
Light Switch – Part Number: WR23X10725
Light Switch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(60)
PartSelect #: PS8758429
Manufacturer #: WR23X10725
The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the sw...
$8.58
  In Stock
Hinge Axle – Part Number: RF-0140-04
Hinge Axle
PartSelect #: PS4112210
Manufacturer #: RF-0140-04
  No Longer Available
BLADE - EVAP FAN – Part Number: RF-0550-10
BLADE - EVAP FAN
PartSelect #: PS4112551
Manufacturer #: RF-0550-10
  No Longer Available
THERMOSTAT – Part Number: RF-7350-58
THERMOSTAT
PartSelect #: PS4119885
Manufacturer #: RF-7350-58
  No Longer Available
TRAY - COMPRESSOR DRI – Part Number: RF-7600-86
TRAY - COMPRESSOR DRI
PartSelect #: PS4120123
Manufacturer #: RF-7600-86
  No Longer Available
MOTOR - CONDENSER FAN – Part Number: RF-4550-09
MOTOR - CONDENSER FAN
PartSelect #: PS4117553
Manufacturer #: RF-4550-09
  No Longer Available
SCREWHINGE (PHILLIPS – Part Number: RF-6150-20
SCREWHINGE (PHILLIPS
PartSelect #: PS4118683
Manufacturer #: RF-6150-20
  No Longer Available
TUBECONDENSATION – Part Number: RF-7750-14
TUBECONDENSATION
PartSelect #: PS4120206
Manufacturer #: RF-7750-14
  No Longer Available
TUBE – Part Number: RF-7750-16
TUBE
PartSelect #: PS4120208
Manufacturer #: RF-7750-16
  No Longer Available
WASHERPADDED – Part Number: RF-7950-48
WASHERPADDED
PartSelect #: PS4120330
Manufacturer #: RF-7950-48
  No Longer Available
Evaporator Fan Motor – Part Number: WR60X29870
Evaporator Fan Motor
PartSelect #: PS12679223
Manufacturer #: WR60X29870
Evaporator fan motor
$76.72
  In Stock
BAFFLE AIR (Assembly) – Part Number: RF-0150-02
BAFFLE AIR (Assembly)
PartSelect #: PS4112240
Manufacturer #: RF-0150-02
  No Longer Available

Questions And Answers for MHR-10WL

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Common Symptoms of the MHR-10WL

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Light not working
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Fridge too warm
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Fixing
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sticking Light Switch
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the catch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
Parts Used:
Light Switch
  • Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
117 of 146 people found this instruction helpful.
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The refrigirator light would not come on.
Poped out with screwdriver the old swithch and unplugged the two wires. Plugged in the wires to the new swithch and pushed it back in the hole where the old switch was before.
Parts Used:
Light Switch
  • Jania from Novato, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
24 of 39 people found this instruction helpful.
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Switch failed on which kept the refrigerator warm due to heat generatered by light bulbs.
While the switch did last for 9 years, the design is poor due to the failure mode. The failure should be to fail off or not able to turn on the lights which would be inconvenient but would not warm the refrigerator contents. Arcing at the contacts eventually caused the switch to "weld" closed. It is not obvious that this is occurring so it took some time to recognize why the temp inside the ref was high while the freezer was OK. Replacing the switch was easy once it was recognized as the problem. All that was required to replace the switch was to remove the screws holding a fiber cover and then pulling off the aluminum cap which covered the switches. Unplug the switch an squeeze the keeper on the switch to release it and pull down. Pop the replacement switch in place and plug the wires harness back in. All in all it took much less time to replace than it has to write this up. T Pope
Parts Used:
Light Switch
  • Terry from Simi Valley, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
18 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
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