MER5770AAW Maytag Range - Instructions

My wife called a service company and was told that a tech would have to inspect the stove.
service charge 60.00 After inspection the parts would be orderd and a 200 fee for labor plus the parts would be charged at the completeion of the job. 2 weeks for part. I found you on the net orderd the glass. got it in 2 days and I completed the repair in 20 mins. Cost 89.00

very very easy. but keep in mind that step one, killing the power at the power box. I jumped that one to a near disastours outcome, thankully all turned out well byt there was a hell of bang and VERY bright flash. Still was worth "doing it yourself" just keep in mine the cut power side...Safety first!!!

It wasn't the handle that was broken, it was what the handle was attached to that was. I removed the door by opening to first detent and just lifting the door upward. Once off, I removed the screws on the top sides and underneath - a total of 9. This allowed me to remove the edging on the sides and underneath - the front glass came with it as well. Then I removed the Top trim by removing a screw on each of the sides and two on the front - this was the piece that was broken. Since I had already disassembled most of the door, I went ahead and dismatled the rest so that I could clean everything. The pieces that would fit went into the dishwaser and the rest (including the glass) I washed by hand (except the white insulation pieces of course). I did take apart the double glass panel by lifting up on a bent tab on one of the corners - this allowed me to clean the insides as well as the groves in which the glass sat. After everything was clean, I reassembled everything in the reverse order substituting the new trim for the old.

Notes: The top of the trim piece has two diferent screws - two short ones that screws into the trim piece itself and two that go through to the door metal. The screw that I ordered ended up being one of the short ones and I wanted the other. The snap nut was correct, and was what the longer screw to the trim actually grabs on to. I ended up using one of my own screws that fit like a dream, but wasn't painted white. The other note is that the sheet metal that the trim piece screws into from the front was slightly stripped. All I had to do was to place the metal on a hard surface and hit the holes with a hammer to bring them back into a usable form - not ideal, but worked nonetheless.

As the video described I just unscrewed the sensor from inside the oven. Although I couldn't pull the wiring harness through the insulation (the wires were gathered in back with a wire tie) just four screws to loosen the back panel for access to the connection. My wife says it seems to be heating perfectly now.

removed the screws,pulled the element out about 3 inches disconnected the 2 wires

Removed the two screws holding the element in place. I then pulled the element and wiring out until I saw the connecter. I disconnected the two wires and then chose the correct connector from the package, snapped it back into place, put the screws back, turned on the breaker then tested the oven and found that everything was working correctly.
This is the second time I have ordered from Part Select, the first time was for a front LED panel on the same appliance. With the help finding the part you need and the comments from other customers I have saved a lot of money by repairing these problems myself. Oh, and the best part is the look on my husband's face when he came home and found out the repairs were made by me and not a repairman that he said I should call. He said he would laugh when the first repair by me didn't work but who's laughing now : )

I was told by appliance repairman that sensor and electronic panel were out - so ordered both as PartSelect was less expensive (about 1/2) than service call price. Sensor was in stock and arrived in 2 days, panel was special order from factory.
Replaced the sensor. Pressed Control Lock pad for several seconds and oven clock came on. Was able to set baking temp, broiler, and convection operation as normal.
Canceled order on panel as Sensor fixed my problem.

Turn off breaker.
Remove knob, pulls off. Pulled stove away from wall.
Removed front panel with switches attached.
There are screws in front and back.
Removed screws that hold switch in place.
Transferred wires one at at time to get proper location.
Reverse process for reassembly
Gary in Ohio

First thing- I cut off power to the range. I then removed two screws to allow the cook top to be lifted. I marked the wiring and replaced the burner. Reapplied power and started cooking!

I removed the door from the oven and set it on towel on the table, and started the repair of the door. I removed the screws one at a time, and one layer at a time. Becareful you need to take the whole door apart, and remember how it goes bact together. In the end it was worth it. The hardest part was getting the right part. I thought I could order the whole door, and found out after several calls they don't sell the whole door. Part Select both times I put in my order had the parts at my door within 2 to 3 days. I also had to return one of the parts and within 2 to 3 days the part was credited to my account

Piece of cake! Took more time to find the screwdriver than it did to replace the element!
Unplugged the stove. Removed 2 screws. Pulled the element out about 2" and disconnected the wires on each end (wires are attached to a metal clip that just pushes on to the end of the element. Threw the old element away. Unpacked the new elements. Connected the wires at each end. Pushed element into place and screwed in 2 screws. Plugged oven/stove back in and voila! That's it!

SHUT OFF BREAKER FOR OVEN! pulled oven out to get at backside,removed 3 screws on back coverplate,removed 2 screws inside oven at sensor in top left corner of oven,disconnected plastic clip at back ,pulled old sensor through hole.replaced sensor with new in reverse order. 15minutes tops.

This was a complete no brainer. The easiest repair I have ever done. Take out the old screws, remove element and replace with new one, replace screws. Took less than 5 minutes :)

Replacing the sensor kit and door gasket was no problem at all, however the baking element was A different story.
The problem was not the fault of the replacement part, but
the removal of the element to be replaced. The phillips head screws stripped out very easy and getting them out without damage to the interior finish of the oven was time consuming and challenging, but patients, and perservrance
win and so did I. Oven now works great

Unplugged the unit. Removed the back of the range and disconnected the top element connectors. Then removed the screws holding top element from inside the range. I did not remove the bottom rack so that my arm could rest on that rather than risk hitting the bottom element. Removed the top element and inserted new element. Placed the front bracket to hold element in place and tightend the two screws holding the element to the back of the range. Then reattached the connecting wires, replaced the back panel. Then completed attaching the braces holding element to top of range. Did not tighten braces until all screws had been started.