KUDI01ILBL6 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

I peeled off the old seal and replaced with the new seal. The instructions were clear and easy to follow, however the new seal made the door not stay closed as the friction catch at the top was no strong enough to overcome the tension of the door closed with the new seal.

There were explicit instructions on the way the seal was to work with the sealed edge spreading into the tub area as the door closed. I was very careful to follow those instructions and made sure to seat the seal carefully. After I reinstalled the seal three times to see if I could get it to seat properly, as a last ditch effort I reversed the seal to the opposite way the instructions indicated and it worked with the door closing properly and the seal didn't leak.

Based on looking at the old seal and how it was originally installed, I actually think the seal was out of spec for the unit. However, if it isn't leaking that is what it's all about so we will see how long it holds.

I found instructions on line when I goggled my dishwasher name and model number with the words noisy door. There were three or four good suggestions at a couple of the sites I visited. I tried applying vasoline, then silicone to the rope where it travels through the plastic guides but that just cut the sound down about 50%. My dishwasher has plastic guides that look like rollers but they don't turn, they are fixed in place. The ropes squeak as the pass over the guides. The replacement part kit has plastic guides that turn like wheels now so the rope does not drag over them and squeak. This repair could be done by me in 20 minutes or less every time now that I know what I am doing.

I removed the black bottom metal cover then turned the nuts on the adjusting (leveling) bolts to lower the front end of the dishwasher so I could pull it out of the cabinet. Once I lowered is as low as it would go I opened the door and pushed down on it which tilts the dishwasher down and you pull out on it and the top lip clears the cabinet. If your dishwasher just pulls out the first time you try these steps may not be necessary.
Once the dishwasher is out the guides and rope are down at the bottom in the front by the door. It's obvious what to do to replace them.

Be sure to shut the power off before you attempt this first step, there are electrical connections all around this area. At first I didn't realize to get at the door handle I only to remove the top four screws on the inside of the door. After figuring this out the job was fairly easy. Once inside the top part of the door, all I had to do was snap off the old handle and snap in the new one. Test it to see if it works before you shut the door.

Remove upper tray and spray arm. Remove two screws retaining pipe for upper spray arm and overhead. Unscrew retainer on top of lower spray arm and remove. Gently rotate the upper feed pipe clockwise until pipe can be removed from lower pipe. You may then remove the lower pipe and bearing housing where the seal is. Reverse order for reassembly. I also replaced upper spray arm bushing. Very simple, remove one screw and the arm will come out.

Was able to replace and repair without taking the dishwasher out. Thermostat is behind and to the left of the power junction box. Has 2 wires going to it. It is up against the bottom of tub. I used an angled mirror to see what I was doing. 1 small screw to detach and pull down thermostat. Be sure power is off before you start. Also reprogrammed defaults. Hit any button 1-2-3, 1-2-3, 1-2-3, fast and close door. Let it sit 15 min to run and re-set defaults. Now I have heat and dry dishes.

Disconnect the water supply, the drain line, and the two screws that go up into the cabinet frame, then pull the dishwasher out from under the counter. Tip the unit onto it's face and the main pump/motor is facing up. Turn off the power then unplug the electrical connector from the motor. Remove the single bolt at the base of the motor then turn the whole motor ~1/4 turn counter-clockwise. A firm pull will remove the motor/pump at this point.
The new motor/pump has a new seal. See that the arrows on the pump volute and the motor frame are lined up before inserting into the housing. The new motor/pump slides into the housing easily and a 1/4 turn clockwise will pull it in tight. Re-install the locking bolt and revers the rest of the steps to get running again.

The phone staff was so patient and helped me with the schematic and my model number to be sure that I had the right parts. I did the repair myself and saved so much money. Thanks.

Very simple. We had to remove the screws holding the metal cover on the inside of the dishwasher to access the electrical panel. Then we disconnected the wires that were connected to the fuse kit, unclipped the kit from the panel, clipped the new one on, and replaced the wires. Then all we had to do was screw the metal cover back onto the inside of the door and it worked just fine.

I removed the screws around iner door panel. this allowed me acess to the hex head screws holding the plastic
air inlet and replaced it. the small tabs on the ends of the old inlet had bent
up allowing the water to flow by

.The easiest way to complete the impeller and chopper motor replacement is to disconnect the power, water and drain line, remove the dishwasher from the cabinet, set the washer on its back.

From this point everything is visible, pump housing, motor, etc. and it's a matter of disassembly and reassembly. Make note or a drawing of where all the wires are connected so you reconnect them in the right spots.

Reinstall water lines and power and check for leaks before replacing shield or kick plate.

First removed bottom kick plate cover to reveal the Inlet valve. Saw that it was leaking around the plastic around the solenoid. Turned of the water shutoff valve and unplugged the power cord. Unplugged the two wires from the valve and loosened and removed the tubing going into the valve. Removed two screws that hold the valve assembly to the front frame with a nutdriver. Slide assembly to the right and remove from the two slots. Ordered new valve from Partselect and replaced.

First, turn the power off as you need to access the door handle from inside the control panel. There are six phillips head screws that hold the control panel onto the door. These screws are accessible from inside the door. There are two at each top edge and one on each side of the door latch. Hold the control panel on the front side of the door when removing these screws to insure the control panel doesn't drop and damage the control wiring. Once the screws are removed, tilt the control panel away from the door to access the inside of the panel. The latch assembly that the door handle attaches to will come free with a little wiggling (no screws here). Once free, the door handle is pretty easy access. It snaps into place so removing the old one a installing the new one is a snap. Removing the two wires connected to the switch on the latch assembly made things a little easier.

Although the lower rack was a slightly different style than our original, it fit the dishwasher perfectly. We needed to transfer the silverware racks to the new rack and insert one set of removable tines. About 5 minutes and we are very happy with the repair.

If your chopper assembly has a catastrophic failure like mine did, chances are it took out the teeth on the circulation motor as well. This will lead to the teeth on the chopper being destroyed by the impeller as soon as you turn the dishwasher back on. First, follow the instructional video to remove the motor (found on this site on the circulation motor page) and chopper assembly (also found on this site on the chopper assembly page). The impeller is screwed onto the input shaft of the motor, and you must keep it from turning so that you can unscrew the impeller assembly. I removed the back cover of the motor (there are four screws holding it on) and held a flat pry bar on the rotating assembly inside the motor to keep it from turning, then unscrewed the impeller from the shaft. Mine came off very easy, but be careful not to let your pry bar slip or damage the motors internals. After that, install the washer and grommet from the impeller seal kit on to the impeller, and screw it back on while keeping the motor from turning with your pry bar. Lastly, reinstall the motor and chopper assembly per the aforementioned instructional videos. The whole thing took around an hour to do, and it is much cheaper than replacing the entire circulation motor.

Rolled out old, rolled in new.