Models
>
JGW8130DDB
JGW8130DDB Jenn-Air Wall Oven - Overview
Sections of the JGW8130DDB
[Viewing 8 of 8]Manuals & Care Guides for JGW8130DDB
Click to downloadKeep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".

Light Bulb - 40W
PartSelect #: PS884734
Manufacturer #: 8009
This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
$7.51
In Stock

Oven Igniter - Vertical Mount Bake and Broil
PartSelect #: PS2085070
Manufacturer #: 74007498
This broil igniter assembly comes with its own metallic mounting bracket and a 7-inch-long dual wire lead with a plastic plug. This part will need to be repaired if your oven element is giving off no ...
$91.38
In Stock

Short Oven Sensor Kit
PartSelect #: PS2003225
Manufacturer #: 12001655
The temperature sensor on your oven detects the temperature within the oven cavity. If you notice your oven is too hot, not hot enough, or does not heat evenly, the short oven sensor kit may need repl...
$45.20
In Stock

Screw
PartSelect #: PS12349731
Manufacturer #: W11233072
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
$20.79
In Stock

Screw, 8/18 x 3/8
PartSelect #: PS11746840
Manufacturer #: WP90767
This screw is sold individually.
$7.76
In Stock

Oven Rack
PartSelect #: PS11744745
Manufacturer #: WP7801P173-60
This is a replacement oven rack and it is designed for use with ranges and ovens. This is a genuine OEM replacement part. The rack provides a level and stable surface for cookware inside of your appli...
$83.00
In Stock

Screw - 10-16 x 1
PartSelect #: PS11741409
Manufacturer #: WP3387230
This screw is sold individually.
$7.76
In Stock

Door Gasket
PartSelect #: PS11749287
Manufacturer #: WPW10162384
The oven door gasket on your range functions as a seal between the warm interior of your oven, and the outside. It prevents heat from fleeing your oven when the door is closed. Before making any repai...
$79.91
In Stock

Screw
PartSelect #: PS11738704
Manufacturer #: WP179051
Sold individually. Lock washers are used with screws when vibration from an appliance may cause the screw to loosen. Lock washers are also used in the electrical components of an appliance to ensure ...
$7.76
In Stock

Frame Screw
PartSelect #: PS11743908
Manufacturer #: WP7101P126-60
Sold Individually.
$7.76
In Stock

Stand Mixer Screw
PartSelect #: PS11742292
Manufacturer #: WP4159193
This screw is sold individually.
$8.42
In Stock
Questions And Answers for JGW8130DDB
We're sorry, but our Q&A experts are temporarily unavailable.
Please check back later if you still haven't found the answer you need.
Common Symptoms of the JGW8130DDB
[Viewing 10 of 10]Little to no heat when baking
Fixed by
these parts
these parts



Show All
Gas igniter glows, but will not light
Fixed by
these parts
these parts


Show All
Will Not Start
Fixed by
these parts
these parts


Show All
Oven not heating evenly
Fixed by
these parts
these parts



Show All
Oven is too hot
Fixed by
these parts
these parts


Show All
Element will not heat
Fixed by
these parts
these parts


Show All
Door won’t close
Fixed by
these parts
these parts


Show All
Gas smell
Fixed by
these parts
these parts

Show All
Touchpad does not respond
Fixed by
these parts
these parts


Show All
Little to no heat when broiling
Fixed by
these parts
these parts


Show All
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Oven wouldn’t heat up properly
My oven has two igniters so I needed to determine which one was the problem.
Using the amp/multi meter I tested the connection between the igniters and the valve, with the oven turned on, to find the bad igniter. Depending on the model of stove you have, the amp reading you need for a properly functioning igniter will vary. My lower igniter read 2.7 amps with a rated amp between 3.3 and 3.6. So that was the culprit.
Replacing the igniter was easy. Two screws and a wire connected with a plug. I was able to do the diagnosis and unplug the wire without pulling the oven out. I pulled the drawer out and removed the two screws in a cover behind where the drawer was. You may not be so lucky…I have long arms.
I found removing the oven door made it easier to reach the igniter itself. To remove the door just open it slightly and pull up, it should come off easy…and replace in opposite manner.
Keep track of your screws and put it back together the way you found it except for the igniter that is.
Anyone with moderate technical skill could easily do this repair. The diagnosis is the hard part. I estimate I saved about $200 doing it myself.
Good luck.
Using the amp/multi meter I tested the connection between the igniters and the valve, with the oven turned on, to find the bad igniter. Depending on the model of stove you have, the amp reading you need for a properly functioning igniter will vary. My lower igniter read 2.7 amps with a rated amp between 3.3 and 3.6. So that was the culprit.
Replacing the igniter was easy. Two screws and a wire connected with a plug. I was able to do the diagnosis and unplug the wire without pulling the oven out. I pulled the drawer out and removed the two screws in a cover behind where the drawer was. You may not be so lucky…I have long arms.
I found removing the oven door made it easier to reach the igniter itself. To remove the door just open it slightly and pull up, it should come off easy…and replace in opposite manner.
Keep track of your screws and put it back together the way you found it except for the igniter that is.
Anyone with moderate technical skill could easily do this repair. The diagnosis is the hard part. I estimate I saved about $200 doing it myself.
Good luck.
Parts Used:
-
James from Berwick, ME
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
239 of 271 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
F1 code - gas over would not heat.
Repair tech checked oven and said the control panel was bad and needed to be replaced. The new control panel would cost over $450.00! I found that the oven sensor was bad and replaced it for $30.00. The old oven sensor had failed following a self cleaning cycle. I found that the wires coming out of it were burnt.
Replacing the oven sensor was very easy. I removed the back panels 6 screws to gain access to the sensor's connection. I then removed the 2 screw that hold the sensor in place inside the oven and pulled the old sensor out through the oven. I reversed this process to place the new sensor in the oven.
Replacing the oven sensor was very easy. I removed the back panels 6 screws to gain access to the sensor's connection. I then removed the 2 screw that hold the sensor in place inside the oven and pulled the old sensor out through the oven. I reversed this process to place the new sensor in the oven.
Parts Used:
-
george from birmingham, AL
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
164 of 176 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Our oven would not heat up, smelled like gas.
I removed the oven door, unscrewed a couple of screws, replaced the ignitor, put screws back in, done! Sometimes it would take my oven up to an hour to heat up and sometimes it just wouldn't heat up, just fill the house with a gas smell. Now, it heats up in about 3 minutes!! We were considering buying a new oven, we will just keep this one. $40.00 beats $700.00
Parts Used:
-
Theresa from Yorkville, IL
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
63 of 69 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!