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Burner wouldn't light
I removed the old igniter by working a thin screwdriver under the edge of the igniter, and carefully prying it up. I then used pliers to pull off the electrical wire. Connected up the new igniter, and pushed it back into the hole. A very simple repair.
I've replaced 2 igniters on this stove. My symptoms were that when I tried to light one of the bad burners I heard clicking, and could see the spark on the other (working) burners. So I knew the basic sparking function was working. Just that the igniter on the broken burner would not spark.
A rubber grate foot on my range top had worn out. I pulled the worn foot out and installed the new grate foot with no tools or accessories. Good as new! Now I don't have to worry about the grate scraping my range top and scratching the paint. I also ordered extras so I won't have to wait if another wears out.
Pulled the old one out. Disconnected the wire. Repaired the frayed wire cover with Liquid Tape. Connected the wire. Inserted the new part into the hole. This is after installing a new spark module earlier. But that was dumb easy too. So for about $100 bucks in parts and an hour of my time I saved myself the appliance repairman money and agonizing scheduling and dealing with them for the price of gold. I also replaced all the gaskets on the burners in that time. It so easy even a financial planner could do it.
I removed the burner head #152 and the Burner Cap #330, no tools are needed to remove these items. I pulled the igniter up far enough to get to the wire, disconnected and connected the new igniter put it back in place, reassembled the two parts plugged it back in and turned it on and it worked.
After my housecleaner had been here, I noted that 2 of the little rubber feet were missing from the top grates.
I was pretty upset as the grate wobbled, so I went on line and looked for GE Profile parts. To my amazement, I found the little rubber feet quite easily, and within 2 days they were here at my home. I simply had to stick them in the holes; however, I noted that they did not fit real tight, so I removed them and shot a little glue on them, and they have been in place ever since. Thanks to you guys, I am a happy camper now!!!
burner would not light because spark was skiping to ground elsewhere
First I removed two screws holding head in place and carefully lifted assembly up using flat screwdriver. I separated old igniter from feed wire with gentle pull. I reversed assembly after cleaning old gasket residue. torque screws back in place after cleaning with small ss wire brsh in dremel tool. Tighten in steps to firm light touch. I used new gashket and ignitor.
Got ignitor and it did not have wire attached as shown in the picture of parts. However, all I did was take burner cap off, and gently life ignitor up and out, detach the wire, attach new ignitor to wire and reset.
First remove the screws around the inside perimeter of the door. These require a special hex driver. Take off the inside plastic liner of door. Peal off the old Insulation Foam Strip and replace it with the new strip in the same location. Make sure the wires are off to the right side. Replace the door plastic liner. Done. The Insulation Foam Strip really acts more like a loose gasket to keep spashing from creeping under the door and drippin out on the floor.