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Top four burners on oven would not light without using match
Really simple..Opened the top of the oven and followed the four wires hooked to the igniters on the burners to the back of the oven. Unscrewed top section in back of oven. Found spark module screwed to uppper back of oven on right side. Used a nutdriver to take a few screws out of upper back of oven. Unscrewed spark module from oven. There are six wires - four to the burners and two to the power supply....Wires are attached by connectors so didn't have to do anything but pull the connectors off the old spark module one at a time and push them onto the new spark module matching postion of each wire. Screwed spark module back onto back of oven. Screwed back section of oven back onto rear of oven, and that was it. Works perfectly. Saved more than $100 for service call and whatever elevated price they'd charge me for the spark module.
Assumed the entire top of the range would have to be lifted off. Removed the three screws inside the top of the over door and then noticed the two screws holding the dish around the burner. They were tight and required WD-40 and then a sharp tap and came off. Important: Notice the direction your old igniter is plugged into the wire. It is not clear and can go on either way.
Repair was quite easy. Remove four screws and lay back sheet metal panel. Transfer wires from one module to the other and then put new module in place. replaced the sheetmetal panel. Spark now presen at all burners. One small thing worth mentioning. Each burner has a gas distrubution cap and that cap has a small hole to the spark cavity. One of these was pluged with grease and that kept the burner from lighting until this hole was cleared.
Replacement cook-top, had natural gas orifices, needed propane
Three were simple screw out and replace with a nut driver. The warming burner had a smaller opeining which was too large for the nut driver. Had to remove shielding aroound it first. Simple, job. My mother did the last one.
stove top burner ignition spark progressively got weaker and then stopped on all but one burner.
I located the igniter module by following the wires to the top/rear of the stove. Removed two sheet metal guards and marked and numbered each electrical wire before removing them. Reasembled in reverse order. Wife thinks I'm a genius!
Removed spark module only two small nuts. Inside was six wires on terminal. Removed one by one and connected right to the new module. Easy job 10 minutes and finished.
Replaced igniter pins but no joy, needed igniter module
Most videos show getting to the igniter module from the front when in fact with this older GE its accessed through the back left corner from the backside. So easy, a few screws and I was in. Quick change out and all worked well again.
Lift up work light cover. Remove lamp. Remove two screws from control panel. Lift up control panel. Pop out spark module from slots. Remove the 6 wires from module. Attach wires to new module - module has a diagram on it that shows where wires are attached. Push new module back into slots. Replace control panel cover, lamp, and work light. Now the burners light - the spark is MUCH stronger than before repair.