JGBC20WEHW General Electric Range - Instructions

First, I removed the two screws that held the heat shield in place. Second, I removed the one screw that held a small wire covering. That covering kept the wires inside the back wall of the range. Third, I removed the two screws that held the Igniter Kit, and unplugged it from the back of the range. I then carefully put the new igniter in, and reassembled everything in reverse order. It only took about 30 minutes to do the repair, and 30 minutes of cleaning and wiping of the broiler area. (It is amazing what you see when you take things apart). I should have been wiping things up over the past few months. Overall, a very easy repair. I ordered the part at 12:30 in the afternoon, and FedEx delivered it the next morning at 11:30, all for the regular shipping price of $6.95. VERY HAPPY.....

first I thought it was a faulty gas valve, so I pulled it out, started researching for a replacement part, found your site and started research. I discovered thhat the igniter was the culprit, that info. saved me about a week of time and a 100 bucks, so I installed the gas safety valve back in the oven, patience is the word for the day, you cross thread this and you are done! any way ordered ignighter and it shipped to my house in about 4 days, New York to Calif. had it installed in about 15 minutes fired off the oven and ...IT worked hurray...10-9-2010,

1. Pulled the 110V power plug. It was not necessary to turn off the gas; just be careful not to stretch or pinch the flexhose behind the stove.
2. Removed the oven door by opening a couple of inches then lifting upward.
3. Removed the warming drawer by pulling out to the stop, then pushing the small levers on the side of the track to release.
4. Removed two flathead screws at the back of the oven to free up the oven bottom panel.
5. Removed the bottom panel by lifting up the pack until the front edge clears the overhang.
6. Removed the two screws on the side that hold the igniter to the burner tube. Be sure not to let the screws drop into the gaps in the oven floor. Note the position of the bent tab with the holes to ease aligning the new part.
7. Reached through the warming drawer to release the plug by squeezing the tabs on the end.
8. Pulled the plug up through the gap in the oven floor (where the wires went through) and connected it to the other connector.
9. Ran the new wire down through the oven floor.
10. Aligned the new igniter and tightened them. Had trouble getting the screws started so I used a toothpick to align one hole while starting the other screw.
11. Replaced the oven bottom panel. It needed a little jockeying to get the screws and holes aligned.
12. Replaced the door.
13. Replaced the oven drawer.

This turned out to be a good time to clean all those dusty places that don't get cleaned that often.

Step 1. Pull oven out disconnect power,turn off gas & remove gas line from stove.
Step 2. Remove broiler drawer,locate igniter & safety valve.
Step 3. Disconnect 2pin molex connector for igniter and faston connectors from
valve.
Step 4. Use nut driver remove fasteners that hold igniter and valve remove gas line and feed
from valve.
Step 5. Replace valve and igniter.Repeat steps 4-1 and start baking.

Note: You may only need a igniter and not a valve,both were bad on my unit.
Most often it's just the igniter that goes out.

Check the switch with an ohm meter, 0 resistance in the closed position = a bad switch. I went to the web site found the part. ordered it next day it shows up. Removed the pot grids and all control knobs for the burners and oven lifted the top of the stove up, and off. I removed face plate behind the control knobs 3 screws, I removed the 2 screws holding the oven switch. opened the oven and un cliped the thermostat wire from the back wall. Uncoiled new wire feed under the burner shield to the back of the unit and back down the old hole cliped in the new wire. put the 2 screws into the new switch and re-assembled the rest in the reverse order i took it off . all this while watching my 11 month old grandaughter.

Checked switch using test meter and found voltage going in but no voltage out when switch was turned on. Removed all burner knobs, raised top cover and disconnected two wires from thermostat switch. Removed the thermostat probe from oven interior by pushing it through hole in top. Removed two screws holding switch and pulled out entire assembly. Used a wire coat hanger pushed through hole for probe so I could see where to fish the probe into the oven. Hooked up electrical connections and tested. Everything worked well.
Received part from Partselect in one business day. Excellent service and response.

The repair was fairly easy, you take off all the burner knobs there are small screws on the face of the cover panel and a few on the bottom That come off the cover panel should come off after you remove the screws and the switch for the oven light the wires just clip on the switch there are two .the thermostat is held on by two small screws that are on the cover panel.you lift up the burner panel you have room to feed the thermostat wire in the stove,there is a small hole in the back were you feed the wire through then the metal part is held in place by two small clips that are in the oven on the back wall.I didnt have to trouble shoot becase I knew what part I needed because it was broken,It was a fairly easy repair hopefully this is helpful

Good Luck

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about three inches and disconnected the wires.
I had tried to get a replacement element from Sears but their new element did not have the proper connecter and was missing the flange on the side that the screws went. I am very pleased that I was able to get the exact replacemen part.

Take the advice that it's the igniter. Even thought the igniter lights, it doesn't mean it passes the correct current to the valve. Too much or too little won't work. I'd suggest changing the igniter first. I used to be in the valve business, that kind of valve lasts millions of cycles. The igniters on the other hand break down after a5-10 years

1. removed old oven glow igniter using nut driver socket--it wasn't that tight so I didn't have to use the actual driver. The igniter was now loose hanging from its 2 wires.
2. on the web I read that the new part would have to be spliced to the old, however I was able to push the old igniter through a hole in the oven wall and then pull it out of an adjoining hole on the right hand side. With some effort I detached the old igniter from a plug receptacle that leads back up to the main wiring junction of the oven.
3. I then plugged the new igniter into the receptacle, pushed it back into one hole, then fished it out of the other hole. I could then reattach the new igniter onto the gas delivery tube. Turned the oven on and it worked.

I had to open the top of the gas range and remove the front panel where the knobs are. I was able to identify where the thermostat wire went.
I had a little trouble figuring out how to thread the thermostat wire into the back of the range but then I poked the old thermostat through the hole from the inside so I could tell where it went.
I just had to put all the screw back in and check it and it worked fine.

Once I figured out how to get the top off it was not too bad. all of the screws and igniters for the burners had to be removed. The actual install of the thermostat was simple after that. The igniter was also an easy install. Overall, it takes more time to disassemble the stove to get to the problem than to install the part.

I had to pull the drawer to get to the burner, then remove the heat shield to get to the connections. I took out the screw at the end of the burner tube, then the two screws holding the tube to the back wall. I had to pull the connections through the back wall of the oven, and disconnect them. I then removed the two screws holding the igniter to the old tube, and used them to connect the new igniter to the new tube. At that time, I also had to cut the old connections off of the old ignighter, and put them on the new one. I also had to redo the connection to the gas valve at the bottom of the tube. I then put all the wire and connections back through the hole in the back of the oven, connect the tube back to the rear of the oven, and the single screw to hold the end of the tube. I replaced the the heat shield, and tested. Everything worked fine.

I found the best was to remove the oven door and the broiller drawer. Then I removed the panel that seperates the two areas. This gave me great access. Next I removed the shield (1 screw) and the burner (3 screws). Then the inlet pipe (don't forget to turn off the gas, as I did). Remove the valve (2 screws)...........Remove the mounting bracket from old valve and install it on the new one. Then it's just a matter of reversing the prior steps and your'e done!

My husband and I simply took the burner units out of the packing, took the old ones off, put the new ones in. The new units needed to be leveled, but the leveling nuts included fit perfectly, and the entire repair took less than 15 minutes.