JGAS730EL5WW General Electric Range - Instructions

Check the switch with an ohm meter, 0 resistance in the closed position = a bad switch. I went to the web site found the part. ordered it next day it shows up. Removed the pot grids and all control knobs for the burners and oven lifted the top of the stove up, and off. I removed face plate behind the control knobs 3 screws, I removed the 2 screws holding the oven switch. opened the oven and un cliped the thermostat wire from the back wall. Uncoiled new wire feed under the burner shield to the back of the unit and back down the old hole cliped in the new wire. put the 2 screws into the new switch and re-assembled the rest in the reverse order i took it off . all this while watching my 11 month old grandaughter.

Checked switch using test meter and found voltage going in but no voltage out when switch was turned on. Removed all burner knobs, raised top cover and disconnected two wires from thermostat switch. Removed the thermostat probe from oven interior by pushing it through hole in top. Removed two screws holding switch and pulled out entire assembly. Used a wire coat hanger pushed through hole for probe so I could see where to fish the probe into the oven. Hooked up electrical connections and tested. Everything worked well.
Received part from Partselect in one business day. Excellent service and response.

The repair was fairly easy, you take off all the burner knobs there are small screws on the face of the cover panel and a few on the bottom That come off the cover panel should come off after you remove the screws and the switch for the oven light the wires just clip on the switch there are two .the thermostat is held on by two small screws that are on the cover panel.you lift up the burner panel you have room to feed the thermostat wire in the stove,there is a small hole in the back were you feed the wire through then the metal part is held in place by two small clips that are in the oven on the back wall.I didnt have to trouble shoot becase I knew what part I needed because it was broken,It was a fairly easy repair hopefully this is helpful

Good Luck

I had to open the top of the gas range and remove the front panel where the knobs are. I was able to identify where the thermostat wire went.
I had a little trouble figuring out how to thread the thermostat wire into the back of the range but then I poked the old thermostat through the hole from the inside so I could tell where it went.
I just had to put all the screw back in and check it and it worked fine.

My Hotpoint gas oven became extremely hot after using it . Only after unplugging the electrical cord, turned it off. Replacing the control valve (thermostat) solved the problem. The stove top had to be pried up with a flat screw driver then propped up. Prying off the oven control valve revealed two mounting screws (philips head). Next remove thermostat sensor bulb inside oven at back wall. Remove old thermostat control and bulb assembly. Installation is reverse order of disassembly.

The R&R of the defective thermostat was at first look relatively simple. The job was made more complicated because in order to remove the old thermostat and then route the new thermostat across the top of the stove, under the burners, and down through a small hole into the oven space I had to remove the whole top of the stove. This process is not hard, just time consuming. Be very careful of razor sharp edges, they make you bleed. The final calibration of the oven is an easy adjustment in the oven knob. All in all it was an good experience.



Lyle Nelson

I removed all the burner heads with a torx driver & released the top of the stove by pushing in two clips with a screwdriver. I raised the top and located the thermostat as it fed through back of stove, then tied a line to the old thermostat to be used to pull the new one through. This did not work, so I removed a cover on the back of stove to provide more room & spread insulation apart so i could see hole. I was able to easily feed new thermostat through hole and reassemble.

the flame spreader through the years, developed a hole above the glow coil causing the above trapped gas between the oven pan and spreader to ignite. by replacing the flame spreader the problem is gone and is now working properly. thank you, parts select for being there when i needed the part and also being reasonably priced. mike marino

Removed bottom shelf from inside oven, turned it obj and replaced the oven deflector with only a screwdriver

1st ensure thermostat is intact, I thought it was broken but upon further investigation I noticed that one of the screws that hold the thermostat in place had came loose which cause the thermostat knob not to be able to turn the thermostat stem. Re-installed thermostat mounting screw and it worked just fine.

To: Remove.Four(4)nuts. Six(6)screws. Two (2) clips. To:Reinstall reverse process. "Very simple stright forward, and most enjoyable."

New knob perfect replacement. Slipped it on by hand. Job finished

The repair was somewhat easy, it would have been easiere if I had figured out the right part in the first place! Replacing the Thermostat is a simple task and actually only took abut 10 minutes. The harder task was replacing the glow bar in the broiler area! What a pain! The part had the same gender connector as the existing wiring. Had to cut the connectors off and use ceramic wire nuts... should be simple but the wires on the replacement part were about 1/2 inch too short! After some creative manuvering and about an hour of cussing out the OEM part manufacturer it went together and worked OK but I suggest before trying to solve a problem like this remember the basics... always check the obvious first!

No longer carry the one to our stove so it was substituted with Nafisa on it. You could see all the electronics so we had to pry the old face off the old one blew it in place, but a clock was reversed from timer, but it works.

I put it in the same way tuck it out