JES9800BAS Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

I watched the video, which was very helpful...the temperature sensor was hard to pull through the small opening in the upper back left oven corner. On the back wall of the oven was a large removable circle, so I unscrewed that piece and was able to gain access to the wires attached to the temperature sensor and push it through the small opening. I used one of the new connectors, pushed it back through the small opening, screwed it back onto the oven wall, replaced the circle opening and tried the oven again...unfortunately, there was no improvement in oven temperature! My JennAir wall oven is about 17 years old, and I thought I would try this $30 repair prior to purchasing a new wall oven, but it looks like I will have to do some overtime and buy a new oven. Any other suggestions would be welcome.

Followed video

Turn off power 220v, opened cook top, remove old 8" switch and replace with one of the new switch ps2089438. However, I have another cook top, it is a 6" heating element. Can I use the same switch for 8" and use on a 6" heating element? Since I order 2 new ps2089438 switches. Thank you for your anwser. Kahn lee

I watched the video, purchased the correct heating element and did the repair as illustrated in the video. I simply removed the cook top, removed the ground wire, removed the wiring harness, removed the failed heating element, installed the new heating element and reinstalled the wiring. Piece of cake!

Lifted the old one out and put the new one in. Very easy

Turned off breaker,opened door with bent coat hanger by sliding right to left the coat hanger to open the door, remover 2 screws holding in the sensor in upper left corner of the oven. Remove the sensor (gently) with the wire connection from back of oven pulling sensor out a out 8 inches . Disconnect plug. Install new sensor with matched harness /.connection, installed 2 screws ,turned on breaker.

Pulled stove out to unplug. Removed screws holding end covers then remove screws on the underside of cover as you face the stove top.Remove knobs.Pull bottom cover forward and up so you can lift it off to see the insides.Remove wires and attach to the new part one at a time. Unscrew old from the front and attach the new one.Put it back together.Done.

I replaced the oven sensor which was easy to replace. A pigtail wire was provided with the sensor which is intended to be installed first so you don't have to reach around the front and back of the oven at the same time. The replacement was easy. However, that turned out not to be the problem. The real problem was the maytag electronic clock control timer, temperature control unit. The part number is 7601P177-60. This device has been discontinued and I was fortunate enough to find the part at a local supplier. Once I replaced this, the problem went away. The oven heats up normally. My original symptom was that when setting the oven temperature to something like 350 degrees, the display would rapidly report heating up the oven to that temperature, and the oven was only mildly warm. If you have that symptom, it is probably not the oven sensor. It is the electronic clock unit. Hope you can find one. If you can't, I think you need to by a new oven. Regards

Removed old filter, dropped in new filter. A breeze! What was best of all, is that Parts Select shipped the filter immediately and it arrived within just a day or so! Well done!

The new replacement grease filter came without damage and it was a simple task of removing the old and setting the new in it's place. No tools were required.

First disconnect range then unscrew screws on each side of range pull off face of control pannel then unscrew two more screws on each side of the oven control pannel and unplug all outlets make sure to put them back correctly then just screw all screws back and done start baking.

The feedback from other customers was excellent. It does come apart in layers, and it helped me to number each layer with a sticky note as I dismantled it. I also kept the screws for each layer right next to the layer, so that I knew how many screws each layer used. The only thing I can add is that the tabs to remove the innermost glass from the frame are on one of the shorter sides of the rectangular frame. The tabs are part of the frame, and when you bend them outward the side of the frame detaches and you can replace the glass easily. In addition to the #1 Philips screwdriver, all I needed was a pair of pliers to bend the tabs.

first I checked continuity through the surface element (burner) switch (rheostat) which was fine. then found the screws holding the burner top on and removed, this made it possible to lift up the burner top and remove the burnt out surface element.which was easy to see. take down the number, buy a new one and re hook up the four wires to the new element. (always mark down where the wires went)

I Goolged my Brand of Appliance. I picked the catagory that mostly described what I was looking for. At PartSelect there was a diagram of my oven model with every part shown and described. It even showed the end pieces that were not visible when the oven door was opened. I removed the two screws at the end of the element, pulled the old element out and removed the spade clips from the wiring harness. I replaced the burnt out element with the new one I ordered. It was delivered to my home within two days.

Got a bent metal coathook to temporarily release the oven door, removed the screws from the old probe, inserted the new one, and hooked it up, using the one of the plug adapters provided. Problem solved! The oven door latch was now disengaged, the oven would now accept temperature inputs, and the rear cooling fan (which wouldn't shut off) now turned off. That's a lot of things working better for less than $50!