JDS9860AAB Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

Pull range out 6 inches. Open door to 45 degrees and pull up to remove door. Remove both side plates, two screws each side. Remove both hinges by loosening two small bolts on the front of range that connect to the hinges. Place new hinges in place. Bolt hinges using bolts you removed, replace side panels. Slide door on hinges and push back range.

Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland

Blower motor stopped working and the breaker tripped. Horrible smell! from the somewhere in the oven. Looking at the wiring diagram told me that there was a relay board feeding he motor, but I had no idea where it was, which took a little Internet searching to find it. Finally seeing that it was in the rear I was happy to see that there was enough flexible gas line to pull out the stove enough to check the board, which was fried. I replaced the board and then looked for the reason it smoked and found that the blower motor was shorted (and stank horribly).
It was straighforward to replace, but when I put everything back, NOTHING worked at all - no lights on the control panel, nothing. I then checked the voltage across the terminals and saw 240V and was puzzled until saw that there was no 120V to neutral where the plug connected to the back of the stove. The outlet, however, had 120V to neutral. Since it was a molded plug I thought that was not likey to be a cmmon failure, so after killing th breaker I took off the outlet cover that the stove plugged into and found out that the neutral terminal was intermittent.
The neutral contacts were not grabbing the netral terminal on the plug tightly enough and were a little discolored in one spot. All that moving around of the plug while moving the stove probably moved it just enough not to work at all - that thing was a fire hazard that I'm surprised hadn't been the cause of more damage in a house only 12 years old. Rather than try and clean the termnals and trust bending them to be tighter (and worry about metal fatigue) I spent the $10 so that I could sleep better for a tight new 240V 30A outlet.
Everthing works like a charm now.

First turned power off, Removed three srews pulled fan & motor out, unpluged three wire plug.
Inspected motor and meter checked. Found short. Replaced unit with new fan from Part Select. Installed new unit in reverse on removal. Turned power on and ops checked satis.

Heat escaping from the top of the over door would overheat the electronics and cause the system to show error codes F1 and F3-1. Error code F3-1 suggests that the oven temperature sensor was bad. I replaced the sensor but that did not stop the problem. Replacing the oven door gasket stop the heat leak and solved the problem. I simply pull the old gasket off the door (it stuck a bit at the bottom but a pair of pliers solved that problem, then push the new gasket into place without any tools. The old gasket was very hard and non-complient where food had spilled on it and baked hard.

I took the oven door apart, pulled out the broken fragments of glass and replaced it with the new glass. I should have taken notes as I took the door apart because it was a bit tricky to remember how all the pieces fit back together.

I was very impressed with how quickly the parts were shipped and the quality of the packing materials to protect the glass as it was shipped.

Even though the ceramic insulator looked new (white), it had become non-functional, replacement was simple, 2 phillips screws, reassemble and test. Now I will have to order the other 3.

Repair was very simple. Took the door apart in layers, replaced the glass and put everything else back. it took longer to clean the stove than it did to actually take it apart and put it back together. guess i didnt need to be that much of a clean freak!

First, I shut the power at the main box then, I removed the screws holding the element to top of stove then removed two screws in the back wall that the element was secured to. Then took pliers and pulled apart the wire and the end of the element and then just reversed the procedure and then turn on the power and it worked fine.

First, I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then tried to pull the element out to disconnect the wires attached to the clips. The left side came right out. The right side would not. Had to pull the range out from the wall
(would only come out about a foot and a half due to the gas line connection). Removed the back (2 screws). Removed the clip from the element from the rear and redirected the wire into the oven. Replaced the back, pushed the oven back, attached the wire clip and screwed the element in place. Works fine. This is definitely a job not requiring an electrician.

First I removed the two screws on the bottom heating element that hold the element in palace,one on the left side one on the right side, I then pulled the element out about 2 to 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I then installed the new element. It took me about 20 mins. The cost of having some come out to fix this was about ten times of what I paid for this part. Thanks for the quick service.

Removed the oven door and oven racks. Turned off the power to the range/oven. Unscrewed the bottom element and place the new element in its place. Screwed element in and replaced the oven door and racks. Turned the power back on and turned the oven on. It works great.

Repairman wanted $99 just to come look at it, then the cost to fix it. I got online, found the part, 2 screws and $40 later and all fixed. Wife baked me an apple pie that evening, better than ever!

I slide the range out and unplugged it from the outlet. I removed the back of the oven ( 8 screws ) using a cordless drill and phillips bit then with a phillips screwdriver I removed the oven sensor (2 screws) then I installed the new sensor , reinstalled the oven back , plugged the range in , slide it back into place and that was it. This repair took about 10 mins and the oven works perfectly. Thanks !

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.