JCSP46SR1SS General Electric Range - Instructions

I started by Unscrewing the range top. 2 small screws. I took off the old piece by unclipping the piece . Then I color coded each wire so that I would know exactly where I would place the wires for the new part. 30 min maximum time spent changing the part. Please don't forget to unplug the range before you start.

Per the instructions included with part.

Removed screws using nut driver. Pulled element way forward until wires came through. Pondered how to detach burned out element from wires. Chickened out, call neighbor who grasped things firmly with two hands and pulled. Old element came loose. Popped in new element. Cursed the screws that wouldn't align with holes to support element; finally did it. Screwed element plate in place. Put oven door back on, plugged it in and turned it on hoping that we hadn't reversed the wires. Job accomplished.

easily lifted the top of the stove after removing two small screws in front of the stove.removed screws holding burner in place , disconnected some wires and replaced burner. be sure to turn off the power before beginning this project

Removed oven from cabinet. unblug old sensor pluged in new and reinstalled oven. Esay repair though wish oven was designed so did not have to pull itout of cabinet which requires disconect electric cabel

I downloaded the installaion manual from the web for this model. First htings first, I located the circuit breaker for the oven and turned it off. Removed the lower trim piece from the bottom, next lifted the oven door off its hinges and set it to the side. I then wrapped a couple of small towels around the hinges for the door as per the manual (the hinges can pinch a finger). I then removed the four screws which secured the oven into the cabinet. Next I slid the oven forward allowing me access to the rear. I removed the pieces from the rear to gain access to the sensors connector, and unpl;ugged the sensor. Went around to the front and unscrewed the 2 screws securing the sensor and removed it. I then installed the new sensor, replaced the rear covers, slid the oven back into the cabinet, secured the four screws, snapped on the lower trim, remounted the oven door, and turned the breaker on. Oven working fine now.

Here's how I fixed my problem.
I took the aluminum cover, the part that sits over the jet & the igniter, which simply comes off. It's the part that the igniter discharges to. I took this cover off & using a pencil I scratched the lead of the pencil into the area
which is around the igniter. I made sure to cover the area with as much lead as I could get on it. You need to make sure that you do this to all four burners. The only care you need to take, is not to block the gas jet which is in the igniter recess. It's been about 3 weeks since I added this & the burners click loudly & have lit without a problem. It appears that the aluminum may develop a coating on it of some kind which is highly resistive.

After turning the power off to the range, it was as simple as removing the screws for the broiler itself and the bracket and plugging in the new element. Yes, it was that easy.

Took off oven door and removed racks. Removed the cover on the back side (5 screws removed with nut driver) Pulled sensor out the front side of the oven. Threaded the new sensor through and put all back together.

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

The broiler uses two male slip-on connectors that attach to two wires with female connectors in the stove. When removing the broiler element, I discovered that one of the two wires was burned in half specifically where the wire crimped to the female connector. This is abnormal and raised some concern. However, I deduced that the terminal crimp from the factory must have been defective and the wire nicked or cut in order to produce enough heat at that point for the wire to burn and fail. The female crimp terminal is a special, solid right angle design that I was unable to locate locally even at an electrical wholesale distributor. A straight terminal connector was used and crimped after stripping a new section of the wire. Heat will melt solder. You must use a high quality crimp connector and tool. The connector was then very carefully angled down slightly to maintain a safe distance from the back shield of the stove to the wire when in place. The new broiler works fine. There was likely nothing wrong with the old one. Just a wiring issue.

After I ordered a new element unit, I read the "do it yourself" review on the page. I took the back off of the range and found the broken wire. I found that I had the same problem with the wiring, and that maybe the element was not the problem. I went to Lowe's and purchased a female spade connector, because no one would sell me one through the parts department. All I did was cut off the wire at the end of the burned section, stripped back about 1/2 inch of the wire and put on the new spade connector. I took off the origonal connector/crimp, and slipped on the new one. (You do have to make sure that the wiring doesn't touch the range back) The element was not the problem, so the origonal one still works fine. I may keep the element I ordered, just to have it if this one goes out. I didn't even need to remove the screws from the element inside the oven. It can all be done from the back of the range.

Removed panel to gain access, removed wires from switch from burner that was not operating and attached them to switch for burner that was working. Burner worked, problem identified. Replaced bad switch with new switch. Problem solved.

Shut off power at breaker panel Took screws out of front of range top lifted it up propped open unplugged wires took off two clips holding burner in place hardest part of job checked wire colors to right places put clips back on pulled out light right next to burner replaced put top down replaced 3 screws turned peer back on hood to go