Models > JBV42G*H1

JBV42G*H1 General Electric Range - Overview

Sections of the JBV42G*H1

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Trim Ring - 6 Inch – Part Number: WB31X5013
Trim Ring - 6 Inch
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(4)
PartSelect #: PS244475
Manufacturer #: WB31X5013
This 6 inch high rise burner trim ring is intended for use with detached style low rise tilt lock surface mount burners on ranges.
$8.44
  In Stock
Trim Ring - 8 Inch – Part Number: WB31X5014
Trim Ring - 8 Inch
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(4)
PartSelect #: PS244479
Manufacturer #: WB31X5014
This 8 inch high rise burner trim ring is intended for use with detached style low rise tilt lock surface mount burners on ranges.
$11.96
  In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 40A15
Light Bulb - 40W
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(7)
PartSelect #: PS217532
Manufacturer #: 40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
$11.02
  In Stock
INFINITE HEAT SWITCH KIT – Part Number: WB21X36771
INFINITE HEAT SWITCH KIT
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(15)
PartSelect #: PS16216966
Manufacturer #: WB21X36771
The infinite switch controls the stove top surface burner. This switch will work with most of the electrical range models with coil burner elements.
$51.36
  In Stock
8 Inch Surface Burner Element – Part Number: WB30X219
8 Inch Surface Burner Element
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(6)
PartSelect #: PS244001
Manufacturer #: WB30X219
This part fits most ranges where a ceramic terminal block is used.
$71.31
  In Stock
Terminal Block  Assembly – Part Number: WB17X5051
Terminal Block Assembly
PartSelect #: PS232617
Manufacturer #: WB17X5051
This ceramic terminal block kit includes one ceramic block and terminal assembly with mounting bracket. Terminal blocks generally provide an easy solution for connecting individual wires.
  No Longer Available
RECEPTACLE PUSH-IN – Part Number: WB08T10026
RECEPTACLE PUSH-IN
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(7)
PartSelect #: PS752188
Manufacturer #: WB08T10026
This part is the replacement light socket for your oven. The oven light socket provides power to the light, and at the same time holds the light bulb in place.
$8.54
  In Stock
Broiler Pan - Large – Part Number: WB48X10056
Broiler Pan - Large
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(10)
PartSelect #: PS1517612
Manufacturer #: WB48X10056
This large broiler pan is found in the bottom of your oven and is used to catch drippings from broiling foods. This part includes the grate and bottom pan and is made of porcelain. The grate measures ...
$30.07
  In Stock
Surface Element - 6" - 1325W – Part Number: WB30X218
Surface Element - 6" - 1325W
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(4)
PartSelect #: PS243999
Manufacturer #: WB30X218
$46.42
  In Stock
Porcelain Drip Pan - 6" – Part Number: WB32X5059
Porcelain Drip Pan - 6"
PartSelect #: PS244783
Manufacturer #: WB32X5059
  No Longer Available
Porcelain Drip Bowl - 8" – Part Number: WB32X5060
Porcelain Drip Bowl - 8"
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(2)
PartSelect #: PS244785
Manufacturer #: WB32X5060
$17.52
  In Stock
Screws - Package of 12 – Part Number: WB1X500D
Screws - Package of 12
PartSelect #: PS234746
Manufacturer #: WB1X500D
These are replacement screws designed to fit your range. They are made of metal and are approximately ¼ inch long. They come in a package of 12. These are OEM parts sourced directly from the manufacturer.
$9.12
  Special Order

Questions And Answers for JBV42G*H1

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Common Symptoms of the JBV42G*H1

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Element will not heat
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Timer will not advance
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Electronic Timer went out and Top Oven No Longer worked
There are about 12 wires behind the panel...and this was the second time I've replaced the electronic clock in the past four years. I replaced the analog clock four years ago with the digital version because the analog was no longer available, so I knew what I was in for. There are four screw (top of the frame and lower frame) to remove before the frame holding the clock will come out. First DISCONNECT the power! You've have to remove the clock control knobs, and the plastic lever on the self cleaning handle. The first time I ordered this replacement part from PartsSelect there was a diagram included on which wire goes where. This time there wasn't! So it gets a little complicated. Make sure you label all the wired before you disconnect the old clock panel. Anyway, remove the four nuts holding the old clock in place; put the new clock panel in; replace the four nuts. I'll be glad to talk anyone through the rest and I have photos of the whole repair.
Parts Used:
Electronic Clock and Timer Kit
  • David from Owings Mills, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
60 of 73 people found this instruction helpful.
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Mechanical/electrical clock/timer not working
Followed the instruction provided except had to add a NEUTRAL LEAD which on the old part had been provided by the frame as it was metal/ electrical vs plastic/electronic . Used one of the extra Wire Extensions provided, drilled a hole in the clip connection and attached it to the metal frame holding in the replacement clock. The need for a NEUTRAL LEAD was not discussed in the instructions.
Parts Used:
Electronic Clock and Timer Kit
  • Maxwell from RINGWOOD, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
29 of 36 people found this instruction helpful.
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Old mechanical timer worn out.
This digital timer, GE Part # WB19X10006 (PartSelect PS233996) is called out by GE as the current replacement for the mechanical timer in the JB500G*J1 range. I had tried to get one some time ago from another dealer but was told it was discontinued and no longer available, so I was pretty happy to come across it in the PartSelect catalog.

It comes with a number of mounting brackets and instructions to use the brackets that resemble the old parts, but when I did that the control buttons did not line up with the holes in the glass and were offset about 1/4" to the left. It was impossible to simply slide the timer over that far because it bumped into the underlying metal frame. I ended up using a longer set of brackets which lifted the timer about 1/2" off the glass, thereby avoiding interference with the frame, and bent the brackets sideways to line up with the holes in the glass. But then a transformer on the new timer stuck out about 1/4" too far in back to get the rear cover back on. I made two vertical cuts in the rear cover from the edge down past the timer and bent the resulting flap around the transformer. The resulting installation looks like it was made that way and works great.
Parts Used:
Electronic Clock and Timer Kit
  • Theodore from Atwater, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
26 of 32 people found this instruction helpful.
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