JBS55DM2WW General Electric Range - Instructions

Followed the instructions that were sent to me by E-Mail.

Pulled range out, disconnected from wall socket. Unscrewed back center cover (3-4 1/4" hex head screws). Removed slide on terminals from lower element. Used multimeter w/continuity checker and found no continuity from tab to tab. (You will get continuity if you touch the outer sleeve). Open the door to oven, remove rack for easy access, unscrew the two 1/4" hex head sheet metal screws holding element in place. Pull element out gently. Slip new back in, securing in place w/screws. Replace rack. Slip on terminals, making sure that they are completely on. Replace back cover. Plug in. Tah dah!

I unplugged the stove and removed the oven racks. Then I turned on a flashlight and laid it in the oven so I could see. Next, I carefully connected the push on terminals. Then I screwed in the two screws with a nut driver. Finally, I replaced the oven racks and plugged in the stove, and I was finished!

two screws two wires two min its to easy

My son took out the burned out bake element and installed the new bake element. Not hard at all. The new element arrived at my home in one day. Thanks.

1 Turn off power at circuit breaker. 2. Use nut driver to remove the two screws holding element. 3.Remove panel on back off stove to get to the 2 wires that go to unit. The wires will slip right off the element. 4. Remove old element.5.Slide in new element being careful to go through old holes in insulation. 5 P ut the two screws back to hold element. 6. Connett the wire in back to element. 7 Put cover back on. 8. Turn circuit breaker back on. Very easy job.

Removed the racks, used nut driver to remove bolts and pulled old burner out. Pulled connections out of the back of oven wall. Set new burner and connections and replaced screws with nut driver.

Loosen the upper screws on top of the inside of the door. Install the glass and replace the screws. A second person to hold things would be helpful.

Control unit was easy to remove ,wires color coded-the face plate(key pad) needed to be separated from the old unit. Carefully used a hair dryer to warm the decal. . . Secured the old unit gently in a vise, warmed ( and separated slowly, with a razor blade and thin putty knife(patience). . Once removed, applied to the new unit. . . 5 Stars to partselect for service. . . . Turned a $400 repair into $100 do-it your self. Partselect will be my 1st "go to" from now-on.

In order to replace the bottom trim (and side trims if needed) it is necessary to separate the oven door front panel and its outer glass from the inside door panel. It is best to remove the entire oven door and lay it down on a table in order to do this. (Refer to owner's manual for instructions on removing the door from the oven, but it basically lifts out easily when is is in the broil-open position). Remove the front panel of the oven door by unscrewing the two machine screws (these may be torx head screws on your appliance) on the top inside corners of the door that hold the door handle. (screw spacers on the inside likely will fall out when you remove the machine screws - don't be alarmed) Then remove the three screws at the bottom of door trim. The front panel can then be lifted away from the back panel. This will allow access to the screws that hold the bottom trim to the side trim. Remove these and the bottom trim will slide off. Replace trim pieces and reassemble.

First–removed the door. Very simple—lower the small latch on each hinge from the stove side DOWN to the door side to unlock. Second–crawled into the oven to reach the two screws holding on the bake element. Pulled out the element (wires are VERY short) to see if I had a screw-on or the push-on type. Third–went to PartSelect to order the correct element. Waited a few days for shipping to arrive. Fourth–just reversed the steps to install the new bake element. Fifth–installed the door and secured the locking latch back up to the oven side. Sixth–made me some HOT WINGS!

Disconnect the range from the mains. Open the door. Remove the single screw holding the temperature sensor - this is located on the back wall on center and is screwed to the broiler mounting plate. Remove the four screws holding the boiler element and allow it to hang down on the wire; this exposes a space to feed the wire through later. Now move to the back of the range and remove the six screws that hold the central cover plate. Now push the insulation to up out of the way and you can disconnect the temperature sensor, pull it out through front, insert the new one and connect it. Reassemble in the reverse order. Mine worked perfectly!

I took a picture of the setup and damage . I then disconnected the burnt wires and replaced the wires . Then I installed the new terminal block and connected the wires to the proper positions. The reason for the failure was that the delivery people didn't tighten the cord when they installed the stove . I would check the connections periodically as to avoid another situation like this .

I found a video on Youtube with a similar circuit board repair and decided that I could probably do it. First and most important is to be certain the range is disconnected from its electric circuit. I did this by turning off the breaker at the electrical panel and then unplugging the range. Second, I removed a panel (four screws) on the back of my stove to expose the circuit board, Next I removed the board (four screws) without disconnecting the wiring. Then I removed the flexible plastic covering from the board which has the control button identities on it. This was the most difficult part because the glue was very sticky and I did not want to tear the cover. After removal, I stuck the plastic covering (still sticky) onto the new circuit board and made sure the buttons were in the correct position. Then, I unplugged the wires one at a time from the old circuit board and made sure I plugged them into the new board in the correct position. Finally, I reattached the new board and the back panel on the stove. This repair was easy and no problem for the average "do it yourself" type.

Unplugged from wall outlet, then opened oven front door. Reached in and removed two screws. Pulled oven sensor threw and detached electrical connector from old sensor. Plugged in new oven sensor and reversed removal procedure. No more Flashing F2 and oven temperature came to ready. Very easy.