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HA10TG20SW Haier Refrigerator - Overview

Diagrams for HA10TG20SW

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Parts for the HA10TG20SW

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LIGHT SWITCH – Part Number: WR23X37285
$38.32
In Stock
LIGHT SWITCH
★★★★★
★★★★★
(65)
Part #WR23X37285
The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the switch. The switch is spring loaded and is a generally closed type of switch meaning there should be no continuity when the button is depressed, and continuity through the switch when the button is not depressed. This plastic, white, OEM switch is sourced directly from the manufacturer, is sold individually and is easy to replace. The repair usually takes less than 15 minutes and requires a flat blade screwdriver and needle nose pliers.
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SHELF FIXED HALF FF LOWER – Part Number: WR71X27797
$28.42
Special Order
Vegetable PAN ASM – Part Number: WR71X27804
No Longer Available
Compressor Overload, Start Relay & Drain Pan Kit – Part Number: WR49X30819
$84.91
In Stock
R134 DRIER – Part Number: WR86X25269
$64.76
In Stock
R134 DRIER
Part #WR86X25269
The filter dryer filters refrigerant that travels through the sealed system of the refrigerator.
FREEZER DOOR GASKET WHITE – Part Number: WR14X30219
$41.70
In Stock
FREEZER DOOR GASKET WHITE
Part #WR14X30219
REFRIGERATOR RELAY & OVERLOAD KIT – Part Number: WR87X29315
$55.29
Special Order
STOP DOOR Left Hand WHITE – Part Number: WR01X27813
$14.28
Special Order
Lower Bottle Rack – Part Number: WR71X27754
No Longer Available
Lower Bottle Rack
Part #WR71X27754
SHELF FIXED HALF FF – Part Number: WR71X27796
$24.52
In Stock
SHELF FIXED HALF FF
Part #WR71X27796
DEFROST HEATER – Part Number: WR09X29888
No Longer Available
DEFROST HEATER
Part #WR09X29888
SHELF FULL FZ GLASS – Part Number: WR71X27798
$41.07
In Stock
SHELF FULL FZ GLASS
Part #WR71X27798
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Questions And Answers for HA10TG20SW

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Sorry, we couldn't find any existing answers that matched.Try using some different or simpler keywords, or submit your new question by using the "Ask a Question" button above!
Noah - For model number HA10TG20SW
July 22, 2022
problem I experience is everything cools good for maybe up to a week freezer works fine but refrigerator part freezes top part still does a great job cooling
Chris Boyle Profile
Hello Noah, thank you for your question. This sounds like a faulty Fan Blade PS12688349 on the evaporator fan. If you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week. Please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you.
$28.42
In Stock
Fan Blade
1 person found this instruction helpful.
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Eric - For model number HA10TG20SW
February 21, 2024
Freezer is Icing up. How to test the defroster part?
Chris Boyle Profile
Hello Eric, thank you for your inquiry. In order to test the defrost thermostat, set your multitester to the ohms setting. Place each of the multitester's leads on a thermostat wire. When your thermostat is cold, it should produce a reading of zero on your multitester. If it is warm, then this test should produce a reading of infinity. If the results you receive from your test differ from the ones presented here, then you will need to replace your defrost thermostat. The defrost thermostat for your model does not come separately, it comes with the wire connector, part number PS12688340. Glad to be of assistance!
No Longer Available
Wire Connector
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Common Symptoms of the HA10TG20SW

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

Light not working
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Fixing
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Fridge too warm
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these parts
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Videos related to the HA10TG20SW

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Replacing the LIGHT SWITCH

Replacing the LIGHT SWITCH

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See how others fixed this model. Time, tools, difficulty, and steps that lead to victory! View More

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Sticking Light Switch
122 of 178 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the c atch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
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The refrigirator light would not come on.
26 of 44 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jania from Novato, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Poped out with screwdriver the old swithch and unplugged the two wires. Plugged in the wires to the new swithch and pushed it back in the hole where the old switch was before.
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Switch failed on which kept the refrigerator warm due to heat generatered by light bulbs.
19 of 33 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Terry from Simi Valley, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
While the switch did last for 9 years, the design is poor due to the failure mode. The failure should be to fail off or not able to turn on the lights which would be inconvenient but would not warm the refrigerator contents. Arcing at the contacts eventually caused the switch to "weld" closed. It is not obvious that this is occurring s o it took some time to recognize why the temp inside the ref was high while the freezer was OK. Replacing the switch was easy once it was recognized as the problem. All that was required to replace the switch was to remove the screws holding a fiber cover and then pulling off the aluminum cap which covered the switches. Unplug the switch an squeeze the keeper on the switch to release it and pull down. Pop the replacement switch in place and plug the wires harness back in. All in all it took much less time to replace than it has to write this up. T Pope
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