Models > GSR23YBWHSS

GSR23YBWHSS General Electric Refrigerator - Overview

Sections of the GSR23YBWHSS

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Module Shelf Insert - Clear – Part Number: WR71X10761
Module Shelf Insert - Clear
★★★★★
★★★★★
(67)
PartSelect #: PS2323438
Manufacturer #: WR71X10761
The Module Shelf Insert is a complete assembly for the module shelf. This repair is rated as "Easy" by users. Simply remove the old shelf insert and snap the new one into place using the locking tabs....
$21.31
  In Stock
Evaporator Fan Grommet - Red – Part Number: WR02X12008
Evaporator Fan Grommet - Red
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(22)
PartSelect #: PS963756
Manufacturer #: WR02X12008
If you notice that your refrigerator or freezer is noisy or too warm, you may need to replace the evaporator fan grommet. This part is red in color, and is about 1 inch in diameter. The evaporator fan...
$13.24
  In Stock
Defrost Heater and Bracket Assembly – Part Number: WR51X10055
Defrost Heater and Bracket Assembly
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(29)
PartSelect #: PS303781
Manufacturer #: WR51X10055
The defrost heater keeps the cooling coils from frosting over. The heater will get hot and melt any ice or frost build up around the coils.
$106.71
  In Stock
Light Switch – Part Number: WR23X23343
Light Switch
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(35)
PartSelect #: PS10066583
Manufacturer #: WR23X23343
This is the light switch that goes in your refrigerator. If the light is not working or stays on, you may need to replace the switch. It is made of mainly white plastic, and is an OEM part, directly f...
$8.71
  In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 40A15
Light Bulb - 40W
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(7)
PartSelect #: PS217532
Manufacturer #: 40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
$11.04
  In Stock
Lid Bumper – Part Number: WR02X10540
Lid Bumper
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★★★★★
(2)
PartSelect #: PS284979
Manufacturer #: WR02X10540
The lid bumper or evaporator fan motor bumper in your refrigerator prevents the fan motor from scraping against the side bracket. If your refrigerator/freezer is noisy, the bumper could be worn down o...
$10.99
  In Stock
Refrigerator Door Shelf Bin – Part Number: WR71X10973
Refrigerator Door Shelf Bin
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★★★★★
(37)
PartSelect #: PS3513394
Manufacturer #: WR71X10973
Sold individually. This door bin is for refrigerators. Door bin attaches to the inside of the refrigerator door and typically holds jars and bottles. Follow the instructions in the owner's manu...
$106.56
  In Stock
Run Capacitor – Part Number: WR55X24064
Run Capacitor
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(7)
PartSelect #: PS11764031
Manufacturer #: WR55X24064
This part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer. This part has been updated by the manufacturer and may appear different t...
$108.60
  In Stock
Light Socket – Part Number: WR2X9391
Light Socket
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(15)
PartSelect #: PS299782
Manufacturer #: WR2X9391
This part is a replacement light socket for your refrigerator. It connects to the power source, and holds the light bulb. If the light in your refrigerator is not working, you could have a faulty sock...
$10.78
  In Stock
Evaporator Fan Grommet - Grey – Part Number: WR02X11331
Evaporator Fan Grommet - Grey
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★★★★★
(2)
PartSelect #: PS773826
Manufacturer #: WR02X11331
This is a replacement evaporator fan grommet for your refrigerator. The fan grommet absorbs the vibration from the evaporator fan motor for quiet operation while it runs. If your evaporator fan is unu...
$8.08
  In Stock
Air Inlet Cover Kit – Part Number: WR49X10091
Air Inlet Cover Kit
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(14)
PartSelect #: PS966602
Manufacturer #: WR49X10091
This kit includes damper, fan assembly, nozzle and gasket for nozzle. The damper and fan has been updated by the manufacturer to avoid freezing in the refrigerator. Also known as a damper assembly.
$213.46
  In Stock
WHEEL PAN COVER – Part Number: WR01X10209
WHEEL PAN COVER
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★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS283653
Manufacturer #: WR01X10209
$9.51
  In Stock

Questions And Answers for GSR23YBWHSS

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Common Symptoms of the GSR23YBWHSS

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Noisy
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Fridge too warm
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Light not working
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Freezer section too warm
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Fridge too cold
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Freezer not defrosting
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Will Not Start
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Frost buildup
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Door won’t open or close
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Too warm
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Clicking sound
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Freezer too cold
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Fridge runs too long
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Leaking
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Not dispensing water
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
No power to the fan and compressor
I have a fridge in my garage. I have found that a glass of ice water or a cold drink outside is very important to me. When I discovered melting ice dripping onto the garage floor I was very upset. I spun the fridge and found that the compressor and fan weren't starting. I got out my multi-meter and discovered that power was not making it to these components. I did some research and found the wiring diagram online. There really isn't too much going on with a fridge and the most likely candidate seemed to be the run capacitor. I ordered the part, replaced it in a few minutes and the fridge began working again.
Parts Used:
Run Capacitor Light Socket
  • Christian from Kearneysville, WV
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
222 of 297 people found this instruction helpful.
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Refrigerator too cold
My repair experience was a little more complicated than previous posts, but nothing major. And most importantly replacing the Fresh Food Air Inlet Cover did fix my problem. Here are the steps I followed:
1. You will need to remove a minimum of the top two shelves to get access to the Air Inlet Cover. It runs along the back of the fridge and connects to a hole to the freezer side. It has a little fan inside that sucks the cold air from the freezer and diverts to the top and bottom of the fridge.
2. As mentioned in other posts, there are four screws holding the Inlet Cover in place, 2 lower and 2 upper. To get access to the lower two screws,you simply pop off the lower duct assembly (squeeze the sides). Be careful when removing and installing these screws. If you drop one into the lower duct, you will add a few more steps to the installation to remove more shelves and take out the lower duct to get to where the screw fell. Obviously this happened to me. Not difficult to do, just adds more time.
3. To access the upper two screws I had to remove the top light cover (one screw) and then slide out the top duct/diffuser assy (my name, not GE's).
4. Finally to get clearance to pull out the Inlet Cover, I had to remove the water filter and cover. When you pull away the Inlet Cover, you will see the electrical connection that is simple to disconnect.
5. After I removed my Inlet Cover, it was obvious that it was broken because it rattled and I could peek inside to see that the plastic air diverter/flapper thingy was broken.
6. One final surprise was that the replacement Air Inlet Cover did not exactly match the one I removed. The replacement only had one upper air outlet, while my old one had three upper outlets, left, right and center. I noticed there was a plastic cover over one of the side outlets on the replacement, so I just popped that off and hoped for the best.
7. The replacement Air Inlet Cover Kit came with sticky back insulation that you attach to where the Inlet Cover meet the freezer access hole to make sure snug fit to limit extra cold air leaking into the fridge side.
8. Installation of the replacement Air Inlet Cover was fairly easy, just follow the above steps in reverse and make sure you don't drop any screws.
It's been a couple of weeks since I performed this installation and my fridge has been maintaining temperature perfectly. No more frozen milk or lettuce. The wife is very happy.
Parts Used:
Air Inlet Cover Kit
  • Marc from Orlando, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
154 of 161 people found this instruction helpful.
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Warm freezer and no ice
This story starts with a GE side-by-side refrigerator that has always had wide temperature swings and a temperamental water dispenser. The ice maker was not making ice, and the built in digital thermometer showed it was running warm. I suspected that the heat exchanger was full of dust and so looked there. What I found was that the condenser tank was hot to the touch and the fan wasn’t running. As an experiment, I aimed a fan at the it for a while I saw that the freezer temperature dropped back to normal.
.The fan is marked as 11.2 DC so I checked for voltage at the fan and found some. With three wires and no wiring diagram I wasn’t sure this answered all the questions, but hooking the fan to a 12 volt power supply didn’t get it to spin.
I priced parts at a couple websites before using partselect.com . They also have a good diagram to look at (Sears diagrams are really poor). I ordered the part with 2-day shipping; it arrived on time, was correct and fixed the problem.
Parts Used:
DC Condenser Fan Motor - 12V
  • Paul from Suwanee, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
94 of 125 people found this instruction helpful.
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