This is a 120 volt defrost timer manufactured for refrigerators. The defrost timer manages the automatic defrost systemin the unit. It acts like a clock by switching between activating the cooling cyc...
$45.53
In Stock
Order within the next 5 hrs and your part ships today!
This door gasket, also known as a door seal, is sourced from the original equipment manufacturer for use in refrigerators and freezers. It is a flexible rubber strip that runs along the edge of the ap...
$143.35
In Stock
Order within the next 5 hrs and your part ships today!
This evaporator fan blade is a genuine OEM part that is sourced directly from the manufacturer. The evaporator fan blade circulates air through the refrigerator to control the amount of cold air goes ...
$47.83
In Stock
Order within the next 5 hrs and your part ships today!
Sold individually.
This is a genuine part. The handle mounting shoulder screw (no.10 ab) is made for use with many refrigerators. The metal screw helps to fasten the handle assembly to the outer do...
$21.58
In Stock
Order within the next 5 hrs and your part ships today!
This evaporator fan motor is 115V. If you notice that your freezer is noisy or is too warm, you may need to replace the evaporator fan motor. This package comes with the evaporator fan motor itself, a...
This gasket retainer clip kit is for freezers. There are 24 pieces in this kit. The clips are what secure the gasket and liner to the freezer lid. The clips are white in color and made of plastic. If ...
$56.11
In Stock
Order within the next 5 hrs and your part ships today!
This is a replacement door bin for your refrigerator. It is made of clear plastic and is approximately 13 inches wide at its longest point, 5 inches deep, and 4 inches tall. The door bin holds items t...
$66.24
In Stock
Order within the next 5 hrs and your part ships today!
This part could be found underneath a fridge, dryer, or freezer. The original foot may be cracked, broken, or perhaps missing altogether. If you notice the appliance is uneven to the floor or wobbling...
$25.82
In Stock
Order within the next 5 hrs and your part ships today!
The old gasket was obviously gapping, partially from age and partially from damage during a move. To make the repair, I loosened the screws that are under the gasket and hold it in, but did not remove them. Once all were loose, I removed the old gasket, then starting at the top, ran a thin bead of food grade RTV under the portion of the
... Read more door that captures the gasket. I put the sealant on that edge only, then carefully worked one of the short edges of the gasket under the plastic and tightened all but the corner screws. I then ran the RTV down the inside of the hinge side of the door and repeated the process, this time tightening the top screw and the hinge side screw at the top, but leaving the bottom most screw loose. I repeated the process on the opening side of the door. The bottom was the hardest because the gasket seemed just a little long and it was hard to get the RTV up and behind the door portion, but after a couple tried I got a good bead of sealant then slid the gasket under the door capture and tightened all the remaining screws. After closing the door, it was obvious that there were places were it did not seal well. I used some cardboard strips, cut from the box the gasket came in, to place inside the freezer, between the hard plastic of the door and the inside of the gasket where it laps over the screws. This helped a lot, but there were still a couple small areas, so I used more cardboard, from the outside, between the main portion of the gasket and the rim of the gasket. This eliminated all the gaps. I let this sit overnight and this morning removed all the cardboard for a great sealing freezer.
After silencing the alarm, it seemed to be running as normal without any unusual noises, but food was starting to thaw from the top shelf on down and condensation was dripping from the roof. We were able to place most of the food in 2 large ice chests and then the rest in the freezer compartments of 2 fridges we have in the house. I the
... Read moren turned down the temp dial to the coldest setting and let it run for an hour or so; no change.
After researching on the internet, it sounded like our symptoms could be pointing to a defrost timer issue. I pulled the freezer away from the wall, located the timer and used a large screwdriver to slowly advance it. While doing this, at one point I could hear the compressor kick in. I pushed the quick freeze button and let it run for a while. When I checked it in a few hours, the alarm light had gone out and water that I had placed inside was frozen. We took a chance and put the food we placed in the ice chests back in the freezer. Everything was fine several hours later.
I ordered a new defrost timer, it arrived in a couple of days, and replaced the old one with it in a matter of minutes by disconnecting the wire harness from the old timer, removing the 2 screws holding it onto the bracket, screwing the new timer to the bracket, reconnecting the wires harness, and done. It's been a week or so and no problems.
Unplugged unit from power source. Emptied the vegetable crisper and the removed crisper including the permanently fixed mounts on either lower wall of the unit which are retained with screws. Removed temperature control knob. Then removed interior back panel that covers cooling panel and controller. Carefully work panel loose as it is ver
... Read morey thin and bendable metal. Note gaskets at each end of the panel and save for re-install. After working panel loose carefully find controller and pinch the mounting bracket of the controller which allows it to release from the panel. Now you may set panel out of the way and continue disassembling the controller. It has a thermal wire that is mounted to the back of the fridge wall with a screw clam. Note position and shape then remove. Remove ground and power connections noting position of each. Take new controller and attach ground and power connection. Bend thermal wire using thumb as a shaper to exacting shape of the old one and position in clamp and secure with screw. Note old controller had a Styrofoam cover and return this cover after attaching new controller to the cover panel. After this, reposition the cover panel and retain with screws but don't tighten screws all the way as you need to be able to shift panel while replacing gaskets at the ends. Place the end gaskets where they originally were and work both in until they seat. Tighten screws on the panel. Replace crisper and plug in. Good luck it fixed mine and the unit works great.
