GFWN1600J1WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

I called a repair person to check my 15 months old GE front loader washer that stopped in rinse mode. After his inspection he said it was a deffected computer board and it would be very expensive to replace the 3 computers boards inside and it would be cheaper to buy a new top loader washer. The next day I lifted the top cover and found a taped plastic envelope with instructions titled “For service Technicians Only." On page 2, instruction on to how to enter the washer in to service mode and to test the washer:
Press : Signal, Delay, Signal, Delay (within 30 seconds of plug in washer)
Then rotate main knob to #102 and press Start:(the washer did a test for finding the problem) , and for me was : E22 , it means : replace solenoid valve assembly.
So I order the part from Partselect.com for $58.00 and my Washer runs beautiful, thanks to the instructions inside.

removed 5 screws, unscrew two more screws, remove the houses and disconnect the wires remove the watter valve.

Removed three 7mm sheet metal screws from the bottom front panel.
The drain pump is in the front right.
Removed the manual drain screen to drain residual water from the system. A bucket was necessary to collect all the water.
Disconnected the inlet and outlet hose.
Disconnected the electric supply.
Removed two Phillips screws holding the pump to the bottom of the machine.
Slid the pump towards the rear to clear the support pegs and removed it from the front opening.
Installation is the reverse of those steps.

2 things to note if you’re going to replace this part. First, you definitely need the 6” crescent wrench as noted in the instructions. Second, tape up the flanges of the machine so you don’t cut your arms to pieces on sharp metal edges.

First I locked out the power cord. I pulled the back screws to the top panel off, slid the top panel to the back of the washer, and pulled the top off. opened the washer door, and ran my down where the door switch was. with one hand on the switch, I use the other hand with a philips screw driver to remove the screws on the door switch. Pulled the switch up just enough to remove the electrical plug. Now installation will be the same but start backwards. Plug in the switch, run the switch into the housing. While holding the switch in place with one hand use the other hand to install the two screws. Replace the top panel, remove any lockouts.

Pulled off the front. Had to feel around to find how pump was attached. Detached it and popped in new one. Would be better if there was more visibility in area.

Replace the water valve according to the youtube video from this site. It was really easy!

~Unplugged
~Removed front bottom and rear center panel
~Removed broken dampers. Varying difficulty; other components in the way. Used socket to help push pin out with screwdriver and pliers to help remove the pin.
~Installed New Dampers: Used Small (6") crescent wrench for top. Fitting two (2) hands in there, one to hold and one to turn was a challenge for all four (4) dampers. Had to extend a couple to wedge to damper in there to hold the arrow hear flush.
Installing the pins in the bottom was somewhat easier than the top. I broke the retaining pin completely off an old pin to align the new damper to the base mounting hole (hard to see in there). Used Pliers, a long screwdriver and rubber mallet.
Note my situation was in a very small room. So small I had to remove the door to the room so that I could pull the washer out to get behind it. The warnings about sharp edges should not be ignored! Long sleeves (chainmail) and steel fish fillet gloves might help!

Removed top of washer. Three screws.
Removed control panel. Three screws.
Removed spring loaded ring which seals washer rubber gasket and door assembly. Disconnect door interlock connectors.
Removed front panel which includes door assembly. Three screws.
Access to pump is on lower shelf. Remove connectors from pump assembly. Remove clamps on two pump inlet/outlet hoses. Remove two screws holding pump assembly.
Install new pump assembly in reverse,

Did not have to use the new pump filter. The old one finally worked. I probably didn’t screw it in tight enough.

Was so easy to replace the part first take out the lower front cover and then couple screws and also two clamps then assembly back on the same order tested and finished

Unplug the machine. Remove the door by taking out the 4 screws holding the hinge cover. Then remove the three screws that attach the hinge to the door. You may need to remove the hinge pin (mine fell off as the top of the hinge was broken) Set aside the door. Remove the spring clamp that holds the rubber boot to the washer front. Use needle nose pliers to pull the spring away from the boot and use a screw driver to ply it away from the boot around the ring. Gently lift away the left side of the boot to reach the hinge. Remove the four screws that hold the hinge to the washer frame. Reach in and remove the broken hinge.
Insert the new hinge and replace the 4 screws. Replace the rubber boot over the lip of the washer frame. Replace the spring clamp around the rubber boot being careful that the boot seats evenly all the way around the washer door opening. This was the hardest part! Reattach the door. to the hinge and replace the hinge plate over the hinge.

Had the GE repair man install. This site provided excellent service.

utube video made this repair very easy! remove front lower cover, drain pump will be on the right, 2 screws hold pump in place (unscrew), remove hoses by using plyers to slap hoses off pump, remove old pump. replace with new one, screw back in, replace hose & claps. DONE!! i ran a rinse and drain cycle before replacing the front cover just to be sure there were no leaks.

After getting error message from washer, Looked it up and found if the water lines are find, then replace the water valve. After replacing the valve, everything works fine.