Models > GFSS2HCYCSS > Symptoms > Fridge too warm

Parts That Fix General Electric Refrigerator GFSS2HCYCSS Fridge too warm

Fridge too warm is a commonly reported symptom for the GFSS2HCYCSS General Electric Refrigerator, and we have put together a full guide on how to fix this. This advice is based on feedback from people who own this exact appliance. We have listed the most common parts for your GFSS2HCYCSS General Electric Refrigerator that will fix Fridge too warm. We have included repair instructions, and helpful step-by-step video tutorials. If you are experiencing this issue, not to worry, DIYers just like you have fixed this, and shared their experience to help you!

Fixes Symptom 47% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
66 Reviews

Rated by 44 customers 

  

Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

This sensor (Temperature Sensor, Thermistor, Refrigerator Temperature Sensor) sends the temperature reading of the compartment to the control board. If you notice your refrigerator is too warm, too cold, or not defrosting properly, then there may be a problem with your sensor. The temperature sensor can break from material fatigue or through normal use, and should be replaced. It is attached to the evaporator and control housing in your appliance. It measures approximately 1.25 inches long with 18 inch wire leads, and is constructed out of plastic. This part comes in white, beige. It includes the sensor, with wire leads.

$ 27.00
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS304103
Manufacturer Part Number WR55X10025

Replacing your General Electric Refrigerator Temperature Sensor

Replacing your Temperature Sensor

Replacing your General Electric Refrigerator Temperature Sensor

Replacing your Temperature Sensor

Customer Repair Stories

refrigerator was getting too cold

I removed the old temperature sensor by cutting the wires. I attached the wires of the new sensor with wire nuts and mounted it in the same bracket.
  • Larry from Menomonie, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
142 of 198 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!

my refigerator was warm but the freezer was cold and working correcttly

I went to a GE repair center to explain my problem, the service center reccomended that I have a techinician come out o look at it. $75.00 for the visit and what ever labor and materials wuld cost.

I went on line to see if there were others having this same problem and found that there were many with the same problem.
  • michele from North Smithfield, RI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
272 of 342 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Fixes Symptom 46% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
18 Reviews

Rated by 103 customers 

  

Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

This defrost termination thermostat (Defrost Limiter Thermostat, High Limit Thermostat, Refrigerator Defrost Bi-Metal Thermostat) acts as a safety device to stop the evaporator coil from overheating, by turning off the defrost heater at the end of the defrost cycle. This part attaches to the tubing of the evaporator coil in the freezer. A faulty defrost termination thermostat may result in the defrost heater never heating and a solid frost buildup on the evaporator coil, which results in too warm temperatures. The thermostat contacts are normally closed and have continuity until it reaches 140 degrees. If this high limit thermostat is open at room temperature or colder, it is defective. This limit thermostat has an attached mounting clip and comes with pink and amber wire leads. The thermostat is 1 inch in diameter and 1/2 inch thick, the 2 wire leads are 10 inches long.

$ 29.26
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS1017716
Manufacturer Part Number WR50X10068

Replacing your General Electric Refrigerator Defrost Thermostat

Replacing your Defrost Thermostat

Customer Repair Stories

freezer was freezing up.

took the back off and defrosted with a hairdryer. disconected the part pulled the part out cut the wires. put the other part on and instaled it. put it back together and it seems to be working just fine. thank you
  • doyle from kingston, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Socket set
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!

Ice cubes froze in the tray and frost was all underneath

I read stories from the website how others did it so I figured I would give it a try. I put all the frozen stuff in the refrigerator piled up. Took out the shelves. Took out 2 screws with a socket extension ( nut driver will work fine.) Remove the light bulb. lifted up on the back panel...it came right out. Saw the coils and on top the sensor. Took it off, cut the wires, spliced in the color coded new one ( pink to pink, orange to orange) Stuck it in the top coil in the original position and crossed my fingers! I put all the pieces back easily, restocked the freezer and waited. HOORAY!! My ice cubes are all separate and free. NO frost inside. A very easy fix for $20.

Note: If there is a large amount of ice build up on your coils a hair dryer works great. The drain is on the bottom anyway. Also , you may want to seal around the wire nuts to keep moisture out. I did
  • Michael from Sylva, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Fixes Symptom 2% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
2 Reviews

Rated by 4 customers 

  

Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

This fan motor circulates the air through the refrigerator grille and cools the compressor and condenser coils. It also helps to evaporate extra water in the drain pan.

$ 76.38
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS1483567
Manufacturer Part Number WR60X10209

Replacing your General Electric Refrigerator DC Condenser Fan Motor - 12V

Replacing your DC Condenser Fan Motor - 12V

Customer Repair Stories

fan not running

Removed rear and front grills,brushed and vacuumed area- probably caused the fan motor to fail- unplugged fan, removed fan,motor,and shroud in 1 piece, carefully slipped fan off motor shaft, unscrewed shroud and motor. assembled in reverse order. Frige is in tight area, .I'll now roll it out and clean often
  • Ray from Bensalem, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Socket set
74 of 102 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!

Warm freezer and no ice

This story starts with a GE side-by-side refrigerator that has always had wide temperature swings and a temperamental water dispenser. The ice maker was not making ice, and the built in digital thermometer showed it was running warm. I suspected that the heat exchanger was full of dust and so looked there. What I found was that the condenser tank was hot to the touch and the fan wasn’t running. As an experiment, I aimed a fan at the it for a while I saw that the freezer temperature dropped back to normal.
.The fan is marked as 11.2 DC so I checked for voltage at the fan and found some. With three wires and no wiring diagram I wasn’t sure this answered all the questions, but hooking the fan to a 12 volt power supply didn’t get it to spin.
I priced parts at a couple websites before using partselect.com . They also have a good diagram to look at (Sears diagrams are really poor). I ordered the part with 2-day shipping; it arrived on time, was correct and fixed the problem.
  • Paul from Suwanee, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
94 of 125 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Fixes Symptom 1% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
2 Reviews

Rated by 26 customers 

  

Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

This compression ring is meant to hold the evaporator fan motor in place in the freezer compartment of your refrigerator. This is is a genuine OEM part. The tools needed to complete this repair are a Phillips screw driver and small flat blade screw driver. Be sure to turn off your refrigerator before removing the evaporator fan cover so the fan does not turn on during repair. It is recommended to check the grommets, evaporator fan, and fan blades during repair in case they also need replacning. The compression ring may need replacing if the fan is noisy, or the refrigerator compartments are too warm. This part is sold individually.

$ 9.88
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS1015726
Manufacturer Part Number WR02X12149

Replacing your General Electric Refrigerator Compression Ring

Replacing your Compression Ring
Fixes Symptom 1% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
9 Reviews

Rated by 12 customers 

  

Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

This evaporator fan blade is for your refrigerator, and it circulates air so that the temperature of the fridge is regulated. This model has 3 blades, and is a little more than 4 inches in diameter. It is made of white plastic and is sold individually. If your refrigerator is noisy and you hear a clicking sound, it is a good indication that the evaporator fan blade is warped or damaged. If the fridge or freezer sections become too warm, the fan could be to blame as well.

$ 72.79
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS12730613
Manufacturer Part Number WR60X30922

Customer Repair Stories

Ice built up around evaporator fan blades and blades chipped and broke. Refrigerator was making loud vibrating noises.

Removed ice bucket, and unplugged ice maker. Removed light cover. Removed ice maker. Pulled fan blades straight up and removed. Pushed new blades on to motor shaft. Fairly easy .
  • David from KNOXVILLE, TN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
1 person found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!

INTERMITENT LOUD NOISE FROM EVAPORATOR FAN IN FREEZER

The repair did not go exactly the way it was described in the YouTube video, but basically it was similar. After unplugging the power cord, emptying the freezer, removing the shelves and the ice reservoir, I removed the ice maker assembly by unscrewing a Philips head screw and unplugging the power connector. The connector had little retaining tabs on each side that I pried open with a straight blade screwdriver. Then the ice maker lifted right out. Next I removed one screw holding the auger motor assembly, unplugged the power connector, and lifted out the assembly. This where things got difficult. After flailing around a bit, I removed the panel on the back wall of the freezer below the evaporator fan assembly, exposing the evaporator coil. I saw that the fan assembly was attached with two screws at the top and two screws at the bottom. The top screws were easily removed, but when I removed the bottom screws, which were situated in very tight quarters, I DROPPED BOTH SCREWS DOWN BEHIND THE EVAPORATOR COIL. Be prepared with a magnetic nutdriver so this doesn't happen to you. I could not retrieve the lost screws, but fortunately it appears that the top screws hold the assembly securely enough. The assembly was loose, but it was still attached by a power cord that I could not disconnect. I removed the tracks on the side walls for the ice bucket, and then I could maneuver the fan motor assembly just enough that I could reach over the top of it, grab and pull off the old fan blade, and slide the new fan blade onto the shaft. Reassembly was straightforward, replacing each part (except two lost screws) in reverse order to disassembly. After getting everything put back in and plugging in the power cord, I was amazed at how quiet it ran.
  • Bert from SAN JOSE, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Fixes Symptom less than 1% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
2 Reviews

Rated by 14 customers 

  

Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

The lid bumper or evaporator fan motor bumper in your refrigerator prevents the fan motor from scraping against the side bracket. If your refrigerator/freezer is noisy, the bumper could be worn down or missing, and the sound could be a result of the motor scraping the side bracket. You will find it between the fan motor and the side bracket on the evaporator fan motor assembly. To access the bumper, you will need to remove the evaporator fan motor assembly from the freezer. This part is made of orange rubber and is less than half an inch in diameter. It has a rounded top and a slightly pointed bottom, and is sold individually.

$ 10.97
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS284979
Manufacturer Part Number WR02X10540

Replacing your General Electric Refrigerator Lid Bumper

Replacing your Lid Bumper

Customer Repair Stories

noisy refrigerator

I followed your video and completely dismantled the refrigerator evaporator motor, fan, brackets, and grommet, I completely cleaned the refrigerator including the cooling coils. I then ordered the evaporator motor ,fan, grommets, lid bumper, and brackets. The order would take a week to arrive. In the meantime I cleaned and reassembled all the old parts, waiting for the new ones to come. Guess what! The refrigerator was quiet as a mouse. I really did not need the new parts, but I kept them anyway just for good luck. Not bad for a refrigerator that's twenty four years old.
  • James from NEW YORK, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
1 person found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!

Defroster fan burned up

First I removed the ice tray rack lifting it out of the way to reach the back cover of the fan. Then, the whole back inside panel had to be removed. Two screws removed the fan and bracket from the freezer unit. The missing bumper lid just snapped into place. Replaced everything in reverse order. Pretty easy job.
  • Peter M. from Lincoln Park, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Fixes Symptom less than 1% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
5 Reviews

Rated by 2 customers 

  

Really Easy 

Less than 15 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

$ 47.34
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS2577842
Manufacturer Part Number WR07X10131

Customer Repair Stories

compressor motor wouldn't start, so no refrigeration

My brother-in-law is a 15 year refrigeration technician who I called and described the problem to. He told me to put an "amp clamp" on the line side of the wires (black) that go to the starting controls on the side of the compressor. The motor has a label that has a number on it (LRA) that he used to determine the max amps it would pull. In this case, if the motor pulled 10 amps, then the motor was bad and I'd have to buy a new refrigerator. It was pulling less then 9 amps so he thought to buy a new overload, since the capacitor checked out (measured by multi-meter). As soon as the part came, I removed the back panel (4 screws removed by nut driver), removed the clip that holds the overload/capacitor assembly, detached the two wires from it, and removed the capacitor from the overload. I swapped in the new overload and repeated the above process in reverse. The only difficulty was that the new part was different in that the plug-in locations for the two wires were in different locations, and not marked. I had to disassemble the old part to figure out how it worked so I could deduce how the new one plugged in. Once that was solved, it was a quick fix. This was not a repair that just anyone could do; it required someone with a lot of experience to help me, and I am an engineer.
  • William from Pasco, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!

Compressor would run for three seconds and stop, two minutes and repeat.

The overload protector was the problem. It plugs into the side of the compressor and the run capacitor plugs into it.

If you pull the overload protector and it rattles when you shake it, that's probably your diagnosis.

The replacement is different from the original and the wire connectors are different. Hold the thing in the same orientation as if it were plugged in. The vertical connector goes to the neutral wire, which on my fridge is orange. The horizontal connector is for the overload, which for mine is black and white. If you have a schematic you should verify the wires yourself.

Anyway, the refrigerator now works like new.
  • Steve from SPRINGFIELD, SC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Fixes Symptom less than 1% of time

Rated by 4 customers 

  

A Bit Difficult 

1- 2 hours 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

$ 9.97
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS285088
Manufacturer Part Number WR02X10668
Fixes Symptom less than 1% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
2 Reviews

Rated by 9 customers 

  

Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

This is a replacement evaporator fan grommet for your refrigerator. The fan grommet absorbs the vibration from the evaporator fan motor for quiet operation while it runs. If your evaporator fan is unusually noisy, it could be because the grommet is damaged. This grommet is made of grey plastic and is approximately one inch in diameter. To access the fan grommet and complete this repair, you will need to remove the evaporator fan motor assembly. This part is sold individually.

$ 8.06
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS773826
Manufacturer Part Number WR02X11331

Customer Repair Stories

Loud Squeal when fan was running

WE (WIFE) took out the old parts an replaced with new one ..Be careful to get the placement of the Grommet or they "POP" out on you. fast ship on the parts too.
  • Daniel from BURNEY, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Socket set
1 person found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!

Squeky Evaporator Fan

I made my wife fix it.
  • Douglas from LAFAYETTE, LA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Fixes Symptom less than 1% of time

Rated by 1 customer 

  

A Bit Difficult 

More than 2 hours 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

$ 127.40
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS2344372
Manufacturer Part Number WR60X10277

Customer Repair Stories

Refrigerator wasn’t cooling, but the freezer was.

Unplugged the fridge.
Took off the freezer door.
Took off the door brackets and the ice machine. Removed the back panel. Unplugging the light and the ice machine were a challenge to get to. Installation of the fan motor was simple. Reverse all the directions, done. Tough part was figuring out what to take off.
  • Carl from JAMESBURG, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
1 person found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Fixes Symptom less than 1% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
59 Reviews

Rated by 25 customers 

  

Really Easy 

Less than 15 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the switch. The switch is spring loaded and is a generally closed type of switch meaning there should be no continuity when the button is depressed, and continuity through the switch when the button is not depressed. This plastic, white, OEM switch is sourced directly from the manufacturer, is sold individually and is easy to replace. The repair usually takes less than 15 minutes and requires a flat blade screwdriver and needle nose pliers.

$ 8.56
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS8758429
Manufacturer Part Number WR23X10725

Replacing your General Electric Refrigerator Light Switch

Replacing your Light Switch

Customer Repair Stories

The refrigirator light would not come on.

Poped out with screwdriver the old swithch and unplugged the two wires. Plugged in the wires to the new swithch and pushed it back in the hole where the old switch was before.
  • Jania from Novato, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
24 of 38 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!

Sticking Light Switch

I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the catch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
  • Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
116 of 144 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!