Models > GEW9250PW1 > Symptoms > Too hot

Parts That Fix Whirlpool Dryer GEW9250PW1 Too hot

Too hot is a commonly reported symptom for the GEW9250PW1 Whirlpool Dryer, and we have put together a full guide on how to fix this. This advice is based on feedback from people who own this exact appliance. We have listed the most common parts for your GEW9250PW1 Whirlpool Dryer that will fix Too hot. We have included repair instructions, and helpful step-by-step video tutorials. If you are experiencing this issue, not to worry, DIYers just like you have fixed this, and shared their experience to help you!

Fixes Symptom 37% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
354 Reviews

Rated by 363 customers 

  

Really Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

The Dryer Thermal Fuse (Thermal Cutoff, Temperature Fuse) is a 2 by ½ inch, white, plastic safety mechanism that stops the flow of electricity to the motor circuit when a dryer overheats. If the fuse is missing or broken, your dryer will not start. A thermal fuse fails when the exhaust temperature exceeds the fuse rating, that is when the temperature rises above the temperature that the fuse is designed to handle. This can occur when a heating element is shorted, a regulating thermostat or thermister fails, or with a partially restricted exhaust vent. The fuse attaches to the blower wheel housing. It must be replaced when there is no longer continuity between the terminals. This is a one-time fuse, meaning it cannot be re-set. The replacement part features two 3/16 inch terminals.

$ 19.63
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11741460
Manufacturer Part Number WP3392519

Replacing your Whirlpool Dryer Dryer Thermal Fuse

Replacing your Dryer Thermal Fuse

Customer Repair Stories

No heat but would run otherwise

Cleaning the lint out of the whole machine took quite a bit of time--it was everywhere. Underneath the lint trap was a collection that ultimately ruined the thermal fuse where it restricted the air flow considerably.

Ascertaining the problem was the most time consuming part.

The actual repair was quite simple and didn't take but 15-20 minutes.
  • Dana from Grassvally, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
874 of 946 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer was working, but no heat.

First I unplugged the dryer, then removed the back panel, this exposed most all of the wiring and I could see the heater coils.
Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts.
So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of needle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading.
I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart.
Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes.
  • ANTHONY from CHESHIRE, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
2963 of 3336 people found this instruction helpful.
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Fixes Symptom 36% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
30 Reviews

Rated by 30 customers 

  

Easy 

1- 2 hours 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

The internal-bias thermistor (Thermistor, Dryer Thermister, Dryer Thermistor) prevents the dryer from overheating by monitoring and controlling the temperature of the inside of the dryer drum. It is located on the blower housing, next to the thermal fuse. If your thermistor is defective, drying time could be prolonged or you could get a fault code. You could also notice your dryer overheating. You can test the outlet thermistor on a multimeter, it should read 10Kohms (10,000 ohms) of resistance at room temperature. It can tolerate 10% fluctuation. If your reading indicates the part is defective, it will need to be replaced. This model is white plastic. It is sold individually.

$ 47.74
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11746740
Manufacturer Part Number WP8577274

Replacing your Whirlpool Dryer Thermostat, Internal-Bias

Replacing your Thermostat, Internal-Bias

Customer Repair Stories

Dryer turns off after 1-2 minutes

I tried to follow directions followed by others on this site after diagnosing the problem via suggestions provided by users. I have a Whirlpool Duet dryer from 2002. We've had problems since moving about 3 years ago. I removed the front panel (lower) by unscrewing the two bottom screws (1/4" sheet metal screws). Then I took out the lint screen and the metal tube/contraption immediately beneath to get access to the area where thermistor is located. See the drawing/chart to help you locate this. It's really easier than it seems. Make sure you have the chart/drawing for your model - it makes difference! The thermistor came out pretty easily with a nutdriver that has a swivel offset shaft. Ask your hardware store tool dept. about that one. Put everything back in reverse order of course and test either with/without the front panel re-attached. In my case it fixed at least part of the problem. I was able to get clothes almost dry with most settings but I have yet to install the moisture sensor to see if that helps in addition to the internal-bias thermistor. I am the kind of person that does one thing at a time so at least I now know the thermistor was bad. Good luck and hang in there with your own repair. It's a lot cheaper even if it takes you longer to do than a pro.
  • Dixon from Santa Fe, NM
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
19 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
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Unit would shut down in the middle of cycle and flash E1 trouble code

Had to remove the back of unit to access the area of subject part by removeing 12 to 14 screws also the gas line had to be removed. Two screws held the part in place. Unit now runs normal.Saved alot on repair costs!!!!!
  • Jim from Tucson, AZ
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
30 of 40 people found this instruction helpful.
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Fixes Symptom 14% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
21 Reviews

Rated by 12 customers 

  

Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

Also known as Thermal Cut-Off kit. The thermostat acts as a safety mechanism that keeps the dryer from overheating and the fuse is like a backup system - it's set to trip at a higher temperature than the thermostat. Once it trips, it has to be replaced.

$ 53.28
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS334387
Manufacturer Part Number 279973

Replacing your Whirlpool Dryer High Limit Thermostat and Thermal Cut-Off Kit

Replacing your High Limit Thermostat and Thermal Cut-Off Kit

Customer Repair Stories

Dryer not heating

Open breaker and ensure power was off. Checked heating components for continuity.Found thermal fuse had an open circuit.Replaced High limit thermostat and thermal fuse.Now is a good time time check for free flowing vent piping.I discovered mine was crimped below the floor and caused lint build up and obstructing the flow which could have led to the thermal fuse blowing.I replaced the vent piping as well.My wife says the dryer works better now than it ever has.
  • Stephen from Andalusia, AL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
12 of 22 people found this instruction helpful.
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Flashing E1 code for a bad thermistor

I replaced the thermistor earlier, but the code was still flashing. I noticed the heater terminals were charred and pretty well covered in carbon. So, I replaced the heater, the thermostat and thermal fuse and replaced the 3/8" spade terminals on the heater wires. (These are hard to find - most electrical spades terminals are .250. Also, I crimped and soldered these for a connection with the lowest resistance possible). After all that, the code still flashed! I let the explatives fly, calmed down, and ran the control board test. (This is done by pressing "more time" "less time" "more time" "less time" in succession.) The control board was passing all the tests, but the thermistor test, and the only thing is in this circuit is the thermistor, the wires, the connector to the control board, and some circuit on the control board that involves a few resistors and the "brain" chip. So, I checked the terminals at the thermistor, the wires up to the control board and the connector at the board. The control board connector was fairly dust encrusted, so I unplugged it, cleaned the control board terminals and sucked away all the lint and dust. Finally, I carefully removed earch crimp terminal from the Molex connector (the white female connector) and cleaned and bent them to yield a better connection to the terminals on the control board. I put it all back together, and thus far it is working fine.
  • John from Cedar Rapids, IA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
17 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
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Fixes Symptom 5% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
13 Reviews

Rated by 5 customers 

  

Easy 

1- 2 hours 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

This is the moisture sensor for your dryer. It helps detect the amount of moisture in your clothes during the dryer cycle. If you notice your clothes are still wet after an automatic dryer cycle is done, you may need to replace the sensor. You will find the moisture sensor behind the lint screen. Be sure to disconnect the power source from the dryer before you begin this repair. Note: Some model's require two sensors, please order quantity needed. Sensor only, harness is not included. This part is sold individually.

$ 10.72
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11741408
Manufacturer Part Number WP3387223

Replacing your Whirlpool Dryer Moisture Sensor

Replacing your Moisture Sensor

Customer Repair Stories

Hard to reach the screws inside the dryer They were on the door side of the dryer and hard to reach, especially if you are a abig guy.

Removed the dryer door, unscrewed lint vent.
  • Lucy from CHADDS FORD, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
1 person found this instruction helpful.
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Moisture sensors need replacement

Inside the dryer tub, remove the filter housing by removing two phillips head screws. Unplug the sensor wires, note when replacing wires, black wire goes on upper sensor.
Separate filter grill from housing. Using the pliers, compress the tabs on the sensor plugs and push it thru the grill. The small blade screwdriver may come in handy here to pry up on sensor to assist in pulling the plug end through the grill. Replace the sensors by hooking short end into grill and pushing the long end through the grill. When replacing the housing to the dryer, the most difficult thing is getting the screwdriver onto the recessed screws. Be sure to put the tab on top of the housing under the dryer frame when rotating the assembly into place.
  • Jack from JONESBORO, AR
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
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Fixes Symptom 4% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
139 Reviews

Rated by 58 customers 

  

Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

When connected to electricity the dryer heating element glows red hot and generates heat. When air is blown over it, it heats the air which is used to dry the clothes. The heating element fits inside the heater housing inside the dryer. Wear and tear on the heater coil from use will eventually cause the coil to break and the element to fail. When this part fails it can cease to produce any heat. Alternately, the coil could break and short to ground allowing the dryer to continue to heat even when turned off. The latter is a fire hazard and the dryer should be disconnected from power until the element is replaced. If the element coil breaks, the element needs to be replaced. This model is 11 by 5 inches with 5/16” terminals, metal and ceramic, and comes in black. It is sold individually.

$ 94.64
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11741416
Manufacturer Part Number WP3387747

Replacing your Kenmore Dryer Dryer Heating Element

Replacing your Dryer Heating Element

Customer Repair Stories

Dryer would not heat at all.

Found a service manual on-line for the Whirlpool Duet Dryer. Did the troubleshooting for the problem stated. Found the heater element to be bad (open circuit across heater block). Ordered new element from PartSelect.com and installed. Dryer now works like a charm and I didn't have to call a repairman.
  • Lou from Orlando, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
35 of 38 people found this instruction helpful.
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Burned out heater element

Remove the kick plate from the bottom of the dryer by sliding a putty knife along the top edge to release the plastic clamps, one on each side about 4" in from the edges. The kick plate folds out and down. You will see the heat shield on the right, held in by one hex head screw. Remove screw and heat shield. The element is positioned in an open-front housing and is fastened to the left side of the housing by two hex head screws, located on the "rail" of the element and right near the two wires. Remove the hex-head screws that hold the element in place and disconnected the two wires by pulling them out by hand or with needle nose pliers. The only difficulty here is the cramped working area...I recommend a stubby socket driver for these two screws. Most of this I had to do by feel because I could not see the screw heads. Once the screws are out and the wires have been disconnected, slide the old element straight out toward you. You may need to disconnect a small plastic hose located to the left front of the element, but this hose just pulls right off. Vacume the dust & lint build-up out of the whole area, wipe out the element housing and clean up the whole underside of the dryer prior to installing the new element. Installation is reverse of removal. It also might be a good opportunity to clean out your exhaust duct and the vent to the outside. (Never use the aluminum foil-accordian-type duct.) If the exterior dryer vent has any kind of screen over it, remove it and get rid of it. Screens collect lint, lint builds up and burns out elements.
  • Alan from Brooksville, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
492 of 575 people found this instruction helpful.
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Fixes Symptom 3% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
2 Reviews

Rated by 3 customers 

  

Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

This hi-limit thermostat acts as as safety mechanism that keeps the dryer from overheating. Once the dryer temperature reaches a certain point, this piece will shut down power to the heating element.

$ 100.80
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11741456
Manufacturer Part Number WP3391914

Replacing your Whirlpool Dryer High Limit Thermostat - L295-50F

Replacing your High Limit Thermostat - L295-50F