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Oven wouldn't operated. Error code F9
I called a repair place. They charged $54 to diagnose, (said it needed a new latch motor) then wanted $220 to complete the repair. I checked online prices and did it myself for about 15 minutes work and the latch motor itself ($44?).
Was necessary to uplug the range, pull it away from the wall and remove the back panel sheet metal, then 3 screws that mount the motor. Replace motor, reattach sheet metal. Plug in. Done. Ready to bake cookies.
Oven light receptacle broken - bulb base broke off
Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.
I was selling my home and did not realize that the anti-tip bracket was not originally installed. A home inspection caught the problem and the buyers required that I install one. I could not find the original and obviously the installer never put it in place to begin with. The buyers wanted this resolved within a week so I had to act fast. I could not find one locally so I found what I needed on your website. It arrived in a couple of days and was easy to install. I used the template provided in the kit and drove the screws through the bracket into the wood plate behind the drywall. Pushed the range back in place and that's it. Couldn't get any easier.
First, remove the warming drawer. This allows access to the igniter's plug. Unplug the igniter. The rest of the job is performed within the oven. Remove the bottom (1/4 inch socket). Then remove the next, v shaped piece. The igniter is bolted to the aerator. Remove bolts, and it pulls right off. Reverse these to install new igniter.
replacing the fan on a convection oven (fan was making a vibration noise)
This was the first time replacing the fan. It is a lot easier to work in the oven compartment with the oven door removed, only two screws on the door and the hinges were released. I found that a couple of the screws were either rusted or stripped so I used a pair of pliers to remove the screws that were holding the diffuser in place. Once there was access to the fan I found that the fan was warped and that the blades were scraping against the back wall of the oven. The next challenge was to remove the retaining nut. I used a sheet metal screw to secure the warped fan to keep it from spinning. once I figured out that you have to turn the retaining nut to the right to loosen, it came off easily. 1/2" socket with extension. When I replace the fan I used two washers for spacers to make sure that the fan would not scrape the wall of the oven. Its been tested many times and the oven does not make that horrible sound anymore.
Oven ignitor is on the bottom gas unit. Ignitor is in oven and plug is in warmer oven on left wall at very back of warmer oven. It has duel function to light both upper and lower gas burners (in oven). Wires of new plug that I received were shorter than existing wires and would not reach the plug from ignitors center mount location to plug at far back of warming unit on left wall. Even if the wires would have been long enough, I couldn't figure out how to "release" the existing plug. Easy solution: Cut old wires at junction of old ignitor (leaving wires as long as possible). Cut new wired as close to new male plug as possible (leaving wires as long as possible on new ignitor). Strip ends of old and new wires and wire nut with porcelin wire nuts (hardest part of job was locating porcelin wire nuts)! After placing wires out of the way of burner and ignitor, reassemble stove parts. AVOID touching new element as oil from hands will decrease the life of the element. Good Luck..
Tore the oven apart and replaced the igniter, then put the oven back together. Perhaps if Frigidaire manufactured an appliance that lasted longer than three years this wouldn't have been necessary. This is the second Frigidaire range that only lasted three years. Believe, the next stove we buy will definitely not be a Fridgidaire!
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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Our oven igniter went 6 months after we bought the appliance.
I ordered the replacement igniter for the oven portion of the unit from Part select. It shipped very quickly. Upon receiving the igniter it was time to get to work. It took roughly 10 mins to replace and we were back up and running.
Unplug oven to prevent shore. Make sure to purchase ceramic wire nuts to complete repair. No access to able to plug in the plug. Need to unscrew the plates in the bottom of the oven to get to the igniter. Cut the plugs off and use the ceramic wire nuts to connect the wires. Put make together. It took a Month for the part to arrive.
Replaced Bake Burner Tube on Frigidaire Gas Range Model FGGF3058RFC
The installation of the bake burner tube went well. I followed the instructions within the Video as it pertains to replacing the Bake igniter. That video also describes the removal and replacement of the bake burner tube. The original screws that mounted the igniter to the burner tube bracket were damaged. I replaced them with 18-8 Stainless Steel Serrated-Flange Hex Head Screws, 8-32 Thread Size, 3/8" long. As noted in the video, the oven bottom panel is removed using a flat head screwdriver. For all other screws I used a 1/4" socket and ratchet. A Nut Driver would have also worked just as well. On initial start-up after the repair there was a minor light odor from the flame coming into contact with the new metal burner tube that dissipated within a few moments. In all everything went very well.