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refrigerator was not cooling but the freezer worked fine.
My husband put on the defrost timer. At first I thought the part was not going to fix the problem. After about 5 hours my refrigerator was still warm. I went to work and when I got home that evening my refrigerator was cooling and down to 28 degrees. So if you replace this part wait at least 12-24 hours. Give it time to stablize. My husband says it has to go through its cycle. It works on a 24 hour timer. My refrigerator is working fine and this has saved me alot of money. My husband says, once you put on the timer you may have to use a flat screwdriver and turn the small dial clockwise one click to start it. He removed the kick grill and replaced the part. Dont forget to shut breaker off to replace this part. Turn power back on and start the timer. We are so happy that we now have a working refrigerator.
Look were timer was located, in my refigerator is next to the dial to ajust the temperature. used a screwdriver to get panel off. replaced timer then used a straight screwdriver to advance timer to turn on compessor . monitor temperature . checked out.
easy as 1.2.3 remove and replace before even thinking. just to let you know i also do this for a living but it is one of the most difficult thing when you have to stop and fix your own
This is a built-in unit. Remove the external bezel at the top of the unit. Reach through the unit and unplug the frig. On the compressor unit, you'll see a vertical metal panel. Remove the metal panel and the timer is right behind it. Remove one wire at a time and switch it to the new timer. Remove timer and replace with new one.
Just an added comment, GE Service wanted to put an "ice kit" into my unit. The full repairs would have cost $1,000. While I described how to replace the defrost timer, the problem was the tray heater. But that's another story.
Refridgerator wouldn't cycle into defrost mode without doing it manually.
I removed the shield over the timer and the part that supported the timer. Just unpluged it and pluged in new timer and put back shield. I had already replaced the defrost heaters which had totally burned up. I also replaced the thermostat while I was making the repairs although the old one was still o.k. All the information that I needed to make the repairs I obtained through your website. After looking at several websites to compare prices-etc, I found yours to be the best overall. Thanks-a-million your website is worth it's weight in Cold Food !
refrigerator wasn't cooling but the freezer was working properly
From instructions found on the site I was directed to the defrost timer part being bad. And from the information others posted that have had the same problem I was able to replace that part by removing the bottom grill just below the door and on the left side was the part. Removing one screw to remove the bracket from the frame and then another screw to remove the part from the bracket. I found it easier to remove the part from the bracket before I pulled the part out so I would have more room to unplug the connector. Just reverse the steps to replace the new part. It took about a day or so for the refrigerator to get to the proper temp.
Two of the two leveling jacks of this old refrigerator were missing and had to be replaced.
I ordered four leveling jacks from this site for the refrigerator using a slightly different model number (my model was not listed). I assumed that the jacks all had the same shaft diameter and thread size. However, it turned out that the two front jacks had half-inch shaft diameters. It could be that originally there were rollers in front. The two rear jacks had quarter-inch shafts with "feet" for supporting them on the floor. So, I had to return the four jacks I had ordered and find another solution. I found two half-inch threaded bolts at the local hardware store that fit the front holes perfectly. I purchased 3.5 inch bolts to give me enough room to find the proper adjustment. I used wooden blocks and a crow bar to raise one side of the refrigerator high enough to screw in the leveling jacks. I used an adjustable crescent wrench to turn the bolts' hex heads until they were the proper height. I used the two original quarter-inch jacks in the rear holes and adjusted them to the proper height to level the refrigerator on the concrete floor where it is located. Then I removed the wooden blocks and tested to make sure the refrigerator did not wobble. I found that using the two bolts (no leveling jacks for the front holes could be found) for the front jacks proved to be the ideal solution. The job took me about thirty minutes, including the time it took to move the refrigerator into its final location and adjust the leveling jacks once more to create a solid stance so that the refrigerator did not wobble. While I had the refrigerator away from the wall, I removed the rear panel and cleaned the blades of the cooler fan and removed dust and dirt build up near the compressor with a vacuum cleaner. Then, I screwed the panel back into position, moved the refrigerator into its final place in a corner of the garage and made sure there was enough air space around it to allow for proper air circulation. This took me about twenty more minutes. I plugged it back in and listened to it come alive again. It is old but has never needed a repair and keeps everything cooled or frozen. I would suggest using threaded hex-head bolts in place of original leveling jacks if they cannot be obtained. Problem solved.
1) This is a built-in refrigerator with the compressor, coils, etc. at the top. Turn off the breaker to the fridge. 2) Remove the front panel off the top (just push up and pull out). 3) Removed 2 screws to the old timer and carefully remove the plug. Plug the new timer in and screw in. 4) Since our fridge was heavily frosted up, we moved everything to another refrigerator and coolers and kept the refrigerator off until all panels were room temperature. 5) If you haven't cleaned the coil in a while, vacuum it with a soft brush attachment. 6) Turned back on and the refrigerator is cooler than ever!