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Fridge got warm and freezer coils were frosted
Fridge is a side by side. The freezer is pretty narrow for a guy with wide shoulders.
Pulled plug.
Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be removed.
Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.
Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.
Removed old badly corroded thermostat.
I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.
Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.
Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.
Clicking sound then within a minute clicking again, not cooling.
UNPLUG REFRIGERATOR. Carefully remove relay from the side of the compressor. You shouldn't need a tool to do this, if it is hard you can gently pry the edge with a flat head screw driver just to loosen. Unplug white and red wires from relay, noting that the white wire goes in the hole with a #2 stamped beside it. Shake old relay, if it rattles like a baby rattler then it's most likely the problem. Replace wires into the new relay and plug back into the compressor.
I'm too young to die so I unpluged the refriderator first. The cold control is mounted in a plastic housing at the top of the freezer compartment that is held in place by two screws on the back side. I removed them with a nutdriver. Pull off the knob and use a screwdriver to release the control from it's bracket and pull off the 3 wires noteing where they go. Slide the sensing element out and remove the plastic sleeve. Stragihten the sensing element on the new control and slide on the plastic sleve. Slide the sensing element in place, push the wires onto the terminals and snap the control into the bracket. Re-install the two screws and the control knob. Plug it in and you're done. It took longer to write this than to replace the control.
Side-by-side .. freezer working, fridge not cooling
My freezer was frozen but my refrigerated side was not cooling, the temp was actually around 60-degrees. After inspecting i noticed no air was flowing through the vent from freezer side to fridge side. I removed everything from freezer and took the back wall panel off inside freezer section and immedietely noticed alot of ice on coils etc. After researching i found the defrost timer was not working and thus allowing frost and ice to build up on coils and block air flow. My defrost timer was located on the front bottom left behind kick panel, using a phillips screwdriver i removed 2 screws and then disconnected wire harness to the defrost timer. Then i inserted new defrost timer and connected wire harness and then put the 2 screws back in. My fridge is now working great and the ice build-up is gone and i am getting good air flow .. temps on fridge side are now between 32-34degrees. This was an easy project and saved me alot of money doing myself
I slid the drawer fronts off by pulling out slightly on the bottoms and pulling up. The drawer fronts come right off. Then slide them onto the new drawers that matched perfectly. It took longer to empty the broken drawers than it did to replace them.
Evaporator coil freezing up, freezer and refrigerator are warm
Danger: Replacing these parts requires working with electrical wiring, be certain to unplug the refrigerator before starting work.
1. Unplug appliance 2. Empty freezer section 3. Remove shelves and Ice storage tray 4. Remove 6 screws from evaporator cover. Note: Remember where the screws with insulated washers go. 5. Use a hair dryer to melt all ice from coil Danger: To prevent injury or death from electrocution always ensure that the hairdryer does not get wet while in operation. 6. Unplug defrost heater and defrost thermostat wires Note: Thermostat is wired in series with the heater. 7. Remove screw from white plastic holder located on top of evaporator coil 8. Remove styrofoam pieces from top of coil 9. Grasp the bottom of the evaporator coil and carefully lift and pull out the bottom end a few inches 10. Remove old heater coil by pulling out from the bottom and replace with new coil Note: Be very careful when moving the evaporator, it is made of aluminum and will be very costly to repair if you damage the tubing. 11. Replace old thermostat with new thermostat 12. Re-connect thermostat and heater wiring Note: Remember to route wiring so that condensation does not gravitate to the electrical connections. 13. You can check if the heater is working by manually rotating the defrost timer clockwise. The timer dial is located on the bottom, front of the refrigerator on the freezer side. Be careful, the heater gets very hot. 14. Re-install evaporator cover 15. Re-install shelves and ice storage tray 16. Plug in the refrigerator Note: Depending on how warm your refrigerator was it may take 24 hours to return to normal operating temperatures. Note: Take your time and the job will go faster.
The evaporator coil in the freezer would cake up with ice, choking off the cold air flow into the lower refridgerator compartment. A repair man had previously replaced the defrost heater element, but this did not fix the problem.
First, unplug the refrigerator since you're working with live wires.
Remove the 4 Philips sheet metal screws holding the plastic housing that holds the temperature control to the top of the refrigerator compartment. Pull the housing down then out since there is a tube on the housing where the water flows out the back of the refrigerator during the defrost cycle.
Remove the 2 Philips screws holding the defrost timer on the plastic housing. Pull the connectors off the old timer and attach them in exactly the same positions on the new defrost timer.
Attach the new defrost timer to the plastic housing with the 2 screws.
Reinstall the plastic housing, making sure the water tube is inserted into the back of the refrigerator wall.
The plastic slides on the Upper and Lower Drawers were broken from years of abuse sliding the drawers in and out. The replacement of the plastic drawers required removing the glass front pieces using a screwdriver and gently seperating the plastic drawer from the front panel from under the assembly. The front panel easily slide out within the drawer runners. Simply slide the front on the new drawer and insert back into the refrig. That simple.
I ordered a defrost timer and defrost thermostat from partselect.com. Parts arrived in 2 days (earlier than expected). Unplugged appliance, removed bottom cover, unscrewed 2 screws holding timer in place, unplugged timer and replaced with new part. Fastened back into place. Next removed back cover of freezer (5 screws using nut driver). Disconnected old thermostat and removed. Wires already had connectors installed. cut off the connectors with some wire left on and reconnected them to the new thermostat with the included blue wire crimps. Tried to use the shrink tube to insulate but couldn't get it snug enough. Just used electrical tape instead. Reinstalled thermostat. Reassembled cover. Plugged in and fridge and freezer are working fine again. Thanks partselect.com.
- Unsnapped old light socket from top of Frig - Disconnected elect wires - Reconnected elect wires to new light socket - Snapped new socket in place - Done in less than 2 min.
Noticed no cool air was coming from the vent on the refrigerator side. After cleaning out the freezer side, I noticed that the air intake at the bottom of the freezer was frosted over.I removed the metal panel and discovered the coils were completely frosted over so I found the defrost timer located at the bottom left corner of the refrigerator. took a screwdriver and turned it very slowly to force a defrost. i watched the coils for awhile and noticed that the heat element would never deice. so I thought it may be the thermostat clamped to the top of the coil might be bad. I unplugged the thermostat and plugged the heat element coil directly to wires feeding to the thermostat. On my refrigerator the wire connectors will allow to bypass thermostat. After waiting twenty minutes, I forced another defrost cycle with the timer and noticed the heat element would still not defrost. So i unplugged the heat element and took a test meter and checked the wire connectors and found one twenty volt at the connectors. So, therefore, I determined it must be the heat element itself. Even though they rarely give trouble. I found the service diagram on the back of the refrigerator in a plastic pouch, and it said the ohm resistance should be twenty two. My element read 145 so that also pointed to a bad heat element. I took the screw out that holds the coil in, lifted it about two inches, and pulled the bottom of the coil out just enough to remove the heat element from the coil and discovered it had a crack in it. It must have been a Monday at the factory, because the heat element looked like it had been warped while being installed.I ordered a replacement element and installed it. I works as good as new. I do electrical work for a living, so this was pretty easy for me to figure out.
