Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Dryer did not turn when power was on.
Callled the service company to diagnose the problem. Watched him take machine apart. He found the problem. Told me the parts that I needed. Didnt know what they were. Went to partselect.com looked my model up and found parts and ordered. Followed same steps as repair guy: Two screws in back of machine then slide top off. Six screws in front to remove front door ( 4 screws on top 2 on bottom) Changed the thermostat and thermistor. Saved 320 dollars :)
Remove dryer covers and locate heater assembly. Removed heater assembly and checked visually if the heater coil is opened, I verified this with an ohm meter. Heater Continuity was OK. Next step I checked the heater sensors. Thermal fuse with bracket had no ohm meter reading between two terminals[open circuit]. Order part#35001193 "thermal fuse" with bracket from "partsSelect.com." Assemble back in reverse order. Please note that the dryer heater was filled with lint and needed a good cleaning.
top and the front had to be removed to get to the fan... the thermistor that sits in the exaust fan went bad... the heat would come on for a few minutes then turn off completely not getting to clothes dry.....
YouTube, YouTube, YouTube. I YouTubed many videos on how to take a dryer apart to reach the drum support roller and axle. After watching numerous videos, I settled on one that had my exact model of dryer. For my dryer, previous inputs said I needed two rollers to for my model. That is not the case. My model actually has 4 rollers, 2 in the front and two in the back. I ordered 2 initially but only needed 1 thankfully since only one roller was bad. Keep it simple stupid is how I got it done. Dryer's are pretty simple machines mechanically. Don't trash your noisy dryer. We bought ours in 2014 and it only recently started giving us issues. This is after 2 moves and being run daily for a family of 6. I'm glad I found partselect.com. They saved me a ton of money.
Well it went really well until the dryer was put back together as it still didn’t heat. The dryer was taken apart again. This time the thermistors &fuse was tested. Alas, the new fuse was faulty. After putting the car lid fuse back on n, the dryer worked again
Had to pull the top off and the front of dryer with a few phillips screws and was able to get to the thermistor and I also replaced the heating coil because it was bad.The cause of the problem was because of a clogged up vent. It was a easy replacement.
pulley wheel locked up and belt had burned it in half.
had to take top off to get to the front cover screws.Then took the screws out of front cover, pulled it off then pulled the drum out. Man at the amount of lent in the buttom and in the heating element area. Well, after removing drum I found the problem with the pulley. When I got parts to put back together it took a little time and thinking to find out how the pulley an belt went together(belt came off when pulley finally melted in half)with holding drum up to see what's going on. The pulley is laying down,with drum in and belt around it put belt on motor shaft then pull pulley up vertical wrap belt coming down on motor side around pulley. Then put it all together.
The dryer was packed with lint and burnt lint. It was so bad I had to disassemble the entire dryer to fully vacuum it out. Thermostat and thermistor were fairly straight forward. The large wiring harness was difficult. Had to remove the top, control panel, front drum support, blower fan and housing, and finally the rear drum support. I left the old harness on the dryer, and then started around the motor as that was easy to reference in the new wiring harness. I proceeded to remove the old harness, and place the new harness in the retaining clips one clip at a time first moving towards the burner, and then going up the rear of the dryer and finally into the computer board. I had placed groups of screws in very small zip lock bags and labeled them as I took the dryer apart. This helped to remind me where all the screws went when I reassembled. Remember to NOT touch the ignitor with your fingers. Something about the oils on your fingers I was told. Reassemble in reverse order. Rear drum support, motor, gas valve (I had to remove all to clean),Turned the gas on after I reinstalled the gas valve to check for leaks, Drum and belt, attach belt, front drum support, lint trap, front panel/door, and finally the top. Then vent & plug it in and turn it on. Good luck.
Belt fell off because of belt roller on the tensioner melted, ciezed and fell off
Watched a video on utube, how to repair my 16 month old steam dryer. The hardest part was laying on my belly holding the spring loaded tensioner and slipping the belt on around the blower housing. Only cost me $23. Winning!
Dryer would not start but electronics were working.
Pulled top of dryer off; noticed the belt was loose but not broken. Went in through the back (1 screw and removed the exhaust pipe/plate); noticed the wheel was broken and thus the belt had fallen off.
Ordered replacement wheel/arm. One screw to remove old one, one screw to install new one...tentioned the belt. Dryer was good as new.
I purchased wholesale heater element with sensors. Couple wires and bolts to attach. Trickiest part is disassembling the dryer to remove the old heating unit. You-tube it; it's gold.
NECESSARY REQUIREMENTS TO DISMANTLE AND TAKE OFF DRYER CASING USING SCREWDRIVER AND NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS TO REPLACE THERMAL FUSE LOCATED ON THEHEATING ELEMENT CASING.TOOK ME HALF HOUR REPLACED PART AND PROCEDED TO PUT EVERYTHING BCK IN PLACE.PLUGGED BACK INTO SOCKET .whalla IM UP AND RUNNING AGAIN.DIFFICULTY RATING 1 TO 10-3.thanks 4 your support this was not difficult or hard just required TIME & PATIENCE. Thank u once again.THIS SITE IS THE GREATEST.
After viewing many instructions on how to replace a broken drum drive belt on UTUBE and the video you sent me the project was completed with no problems and with ease.
However, I did discover large amounts of lint caked to the bottom of the lint screen housing just beyond the filter screen. There was minimal lint on the lint exhaust fan blades and no lint in the exhaust ducts.
I didn't recall seeing any video instructions drawing attention to potential lint issues, it just made good sense to clean the entire system while it was apart . At first I saw no major lint problem.
However, after removing the lint screen and placing a vacuum cleaner wand to the bottom of the lint screen housing (the bottom is not easy to see) my vacuum cleaner hose became clogged three times. I realized there was a major lint issue isolated to this area.
Many of the on line complaints focused on parts not properly fitting their dryer. they had to modify the parts in some way to fit or operate or they had to return them for other parts. Just think of the time wasted and the lack of use of their dryer.
I called and talked to a tech. Gave them my model number and the tech located the correct OEM parts for my dryer. I paid the extra money for OEM parts because I wanted my dryer fixed and restored to service in the least amount of time.
Outside the discovery of the not so obvious lint issue, the repair project was easy and the dryer was restored to full service with minimal down time.
Thanks for all your help and fast delivery service.