DV203AGWXAA Samsung Dryer - Instructions

Callled the service company to diagnose the problem. Watched him take machine apart. He found the problem. Told me the parts that I needed. Didnt know what they were. Went to partselect.com looked my model up and found parts and ordered. Followed same steps as repair guy: Two screws in back of machine then slide top off. Six screws in front to remove front door ( 4 screws on top 2 on bottom) Changed the thermostat and thermistor. Saved 320 dollars :)

First it was a process of alimination to find out why it was dropping out. After the problem was found it was just a matter of replacing the holding coil on the gas valve. Thank you fred kenney sr

I unplugged the dryer,removed the two small screws on the front of the dryer and pulled the bottom forward. The two wires connected to the door do not have to be removed. With an electrical tester using the Ohm setting I tested the Radiant sensor and the Gas Valve coils. The two terminal coil was DOA. The dryer can be operated with the front open as long as the door wires are connected. Symptons: The igniter would heat up and not release gas. My repair was successfull due to this awesome website and the super fast shipping service. AAAA++++

top and the front had to be removed to get to the fan... the thermistor that sits in the exaust fan went bad... the heat would come on for a few minutes then turn off completely not getting to clothes dry.....

I opened the panel, undid the plugs, detached the radiant sensor by undoing one screw and removed and replaced the part. Fairly simply.

After replacing all the other fuses and sensors I finally replaced the Radiant Flame Sensor and it is working perfectly.

After replacing the other parts and the heat still not coming on I read somewhere that the Radiant Flame Sensor is a normal closed circuit and when I checked with a meter it was open. I would have saved a lot of time and money if I had read that earlier.

I YouTube it and there’s a step by step process on how to do it, took maybe 30 mins. If I can so can you

YouTube, YouTube, YouTube. I YouTubed many videos on how to take a dryer apart to reach the drum support roller and axle. After watching numerous videos, I settled on one that had my exact model of dryer. For my dryer, previous inputs said I needed two rollers to for my model. That is not the case. My model actually has 4 rollers, 2 in the front and two in the back. I ordered 2 initially but only needed 1 thankfully since only one roller was bad. Keep it simple stupid is how I got it done. Dryer's are pretty simple machines mechanically. Don't trash your noisy dryer. We bought ours in 2014 and it only recently started giving us issues. This is after 2 moves and being run daily for a family of 6. I'm glad I found partselect.com. They saved me a ton of money.

had to take top off to get to the front cover screws.Then took the screws out of front cover, pulled it off then pulled the drum out. Man at the amount of lent in the buttom and in the heating element area. Well, after removing drum I found the problem with the pulley. When I got parts to put back together it took a little time and thinking to find out how the pulley an belt went together(belt came off when pulley finally melted in half)with holding drum up to see what's going on. The pulley is laying down,with drum in and belt around it put belt on motor shaft then pull pulley up vertical wrap belt coming down on motor side around pulley. Then put it all together.

Had to pull the top off and the front of dryer with a few phillips screws and was able to get to the thermistor and I also replaced the heating coil because it was bad.The cause of the problem was because of a clogged up vent. It was a easy replacement.

I suspected a faulty igniter and disconnected the cable to the igniter and measured the resistance of the igniter and found it to be 70 ohms then I checked the voltage at the same cable towards the power source and found it to be 25 volts ac which should be 120 volts ac. Next I checked the radiant flame sensor and found it to be open (it should be a closed circuit when cold). I removed the flame sensor (with the power off) using a small box wrench and found a broken lead. Replacing the flame sensor solved the problem.

Took everything apart, replaced the igniter flint, and still didn't get heat. Then found out the thermal sensor wasn't running a electrical current through it with voltmeter and just replaced that, now it we have heat again!

Remove back panel n u can see the sensor and easy to replace thanks to the print out i was provided love this website

Dryer would not start but electronics were working.

Pulled top of dryer off; noticed the belt was loose but not broken.
Went in through the back (1 screw and removed the exhaust pipe/plate); noticed the wheel was broken and thus the belt had fallen off.

Ordered replacement wheel/arm.
One screw to remove old one, one screw to install new one...tentioned the belt. Dryer was good as new.

I had an issue where I was not getting any power to my ignitor. After replacing the ignitor with a fresh one, the problem persisted. Next, I went hunting all the fuses and therrmostats for continuity. All seemed fine. So finally I decided to jump the flame sensor which is located on the outside of the flame tube. WHALLA! It ignited the glow plug. So with one 1/4"" nut driver I removed the single bolt from the unit, then I used a pliers to remove the two wires from the old unit. I replaced the sensor with Tue new unit and all was well. It took less than 5 min once I diagnosed the problem.