CWEF312ES1 Westinghouse Range - Instructions

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

I removed the sensor from inside the oven with a 1/4” nut driver, pulled the sensor out slowly and then took the connection apart and found out that the connector was different, I cut the connector off of the oven side and then cut the connector off of the new sensor and wired it together. I am still trying to find the ceramic nuts. My oven is working for now. Very easy fix, just wish there were ceramic wire nuts with the new sensor

Pulled out heating elements. Removed old drip bowls. Inserted new drip bowls and re-installed heating elements.

I was extremely pleased with the very quick delivery of needed parts.

Broil worked on the stove, however in bake mode, the oven did not make temperature. Turned off the stove, unscrewed and inspected coil. I noted there was a section of the coil that had a "corroded" appearance. (it was evidence of the coil being burned out). Checked with a ($9.00) voltmeter, showed infinite resistance. Found the original envelop for the stove taped to the back of the oven from 1973. It has wiring diagram with schematic and noted the coil was 3000 W, 19 ohms.

Bottom Line found comparable replacement online and tested resistance, measure dimensions of the old coil, matched with Watt rating, replaced, tested installed and works great, Oven has been in use for a couple weeks now. New stove would have been around $500.00. Not to mention some remodel work, as the house is old and stove is a built in.

Coil was $60.00 and should buy the time I need until I remodel the entire kitchen.

I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing.
Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening.
The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block.
I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight.
The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions.
Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.

Took out the bad element and replaced it with the new element in less than 5 minutes, worked perfect, thanks

searched on the computer for the name and part number that was damaged, found that it was the bake element so i ordered it with part select.com. when it arriver three days later (as expected) i disconnected the gas and electric to the range and simply removed the old element with a phillips screw driver. installed the new element, hooked the gas and electric back up and began cooking again...

thanks partselect..

Just placed the chrome bowl trays in place and was good to go. They look very nice.

The replacement of this part is simple enough, out with the old, in with the new. At issue here is the way the controller fails. The heating element goes to the highest temperature. The original controller on this Kenmore oven failed after about two years and the first replacement that I got from you lasted about a year and a half. The defective controllers seem to be working properly once the controller has been turned off and then restarted, but the frequency of failure increases with time until you hardly dare to step away from the oven. This controller should open on failyor, not close.

George Ritz

Simply took oven out of wall, removed back plate, unplugged old sensor, went in the front and unscrewed old sensor, put in new sensor, went in back and plugged in new sensor, put on back plate, push oven in wall. Turn on power

1. Turn off power to the electric oven
2. Removed the two screws in the top side of the oven that hold it into the cabinet.
3. Made a support to set the oven on once you remove it from the wall. Or set it on the floor. You will need help this is not a one person job.
4. Used a Philips head screw drive removed the back of the oven panel. I did not have to remove the whole thing just took out half the screws and the electrical plug for the temperature sensor is right on the edge.
5. Unplugged sensor
6. Took out the two screw on the inside of the oven that holds the thermal sensor in place. Pulled it out the front.
7. Side the new thermal sensor in place replace the screws.
8. Pull the plug out and plug it back in. Check and push the insulation back in place where the thermal sensor.
9. Replace the back and replace the screws.
10. Slide oven back into the wall.
11. Replace the two screws that hold the oven in place in the frame.
12. Turn power back on
Check the temperature

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

It was really easy just unplugged it took off the back cover changed the part out put back cover on plugged it in and the elements were working great!

Screw the handle, that it...

I usually try the cheapest part to replace when I come to a fork In the road but I wasn't home at the time and my other half called in the "expert". He said it was the clock timer and it would be $450 to replace it. She sent him away and I bought one online for $200 and put it in only to find out that it didn't solve the problem. Did some reading and found out that it could be the sensor. Put an ohm meter on it and found that to be the problem. Left the new clock timer in it anyway so now we're good for another 100,000 cookies or 1000 pizzas, which ever comes first