Models > CW20P6

CW20P6 Crosley Washer - Overview

Sections of the CW20P6

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Drive Belt - 51 inches long – Part Number: WP21352320
Drive Belt - 51 inches long
★★★★★
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(25)
PartSelect #: PS11738882
Manufacturer #: WP21352320
This V-style drive belt measures 51 inches long and 3/8 inches wide. The belt is made to slip on the motor pulley to bring the basket up to the speed required. Continued use can result in the belt suf...
$10.98
  In Stock
Snubber Ring – Part Number: WP21002026
Snubber Ring
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(16)
PartSelect #: PS11738845
Manufacturer #: WP21002026
The snubber ring is a piece that is specific to your washing machine. The function of the snubber ring is to reduce noise and vibrations within your washer. It fits in between the leg and the dome ass...
$13.11
  In Stock
Screw – Part Number: WP489483
Screw
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★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS11742755
Manufacturer #: WP489483
This screw is sold individually.
$13.09
  In Stock
Leveling Leg and Pad – Part Number: 25001119
Leveling Leg and Pad
PartSelect #: PS2026623
Manufacturer #: 25001119
This part includes locknut.
  No Longer Available
Rear Leveling Leg and Foot with Pad – Part Number: WP22004469
Rear Leveling Leg and Foot with Pad
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PartSelect #: PS11739532
Manufacturer #: WP22004469
Sold individually.
$21.79
  In Stock
Locknut – Part Number: WPY707702
Locknut
PartSelect #: PS11757590
Manufacturer #: WPY707702
$7.91
  In Stock
Motor Plate Isolator – Part Number: WP35-3646
Motor Plate Isolator
PartSelect #: PS11741792
Manufacturer #: WP35-3646
Sold individually.
$7.59
  In Stock
Motor Insolator Pad – Part Number: WP33-9946
Motor Insolator Pad
PartSelect #: PS11741037
Manufacturer #: WP33-9946
This OEM motor insolator pad, also known as an insulating pad or an isolation pad, is a component used in your washer that acts as a barrier between the motor and the metal parts of your appliance. It...
$2.31
  In Stock
Motor Insolator Pad – Part Number: WP33-9967
Motor Insolator Pad
PartSelect #: PS11741038
Manufacturer #: WP33-9967
$2.78
  In Stock
Motor Pivot Washer – Part Number: WP35-3570
Motor Pivot Washer
PartSelect #: PS11741790
Manufacturer #: WP35-3570
$40.06
  Special Order
Spacer – Part Number: WP25-7831
Spacer
PartSelect #: PS11740546
Manufacturer #: WP25-7831
Sold individually.
  No Longer Available
Motor Pivot Slide – Part Number: WP35-3571
Motor Pivot Slide
PartSelect #: PS11741791
Manufacturer #: WP35-3571
  No Longer Available

Questions And Answers for CW20P6

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Common Symptoms of the CW20P6

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Burning smell
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Spins slowly
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Will not drain
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Will not agitate
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Will Not Start
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Leaking
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Shaking and Moving
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Spinning Issues
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Washer shakes violently during spin cycle
I used the instructions from others and modified them with tips and details based on my own experience:
1. Unplug the power, turn off the hot/cold water valves and disconnect the hot/cold water hoses and drain hose. Tip: plug the drain hose with some paper towels to keep the stale water from dripping on your floors.
2. Move the washer to an open area like a garage, and position it near a wall (or have a helper on hand who can help you prop up the washer top later). Tip: to simplify things, you’ll want to avoid removing the top completely. Removing the top completely involves removing the inlet water hose and all wires leading to the control panel and the door switch.
3. Lay the washer on its side and remove the drive belt from the bottom of the washer.
4. Place the washer upright again and remove the lower rear panel held by eight ¼” hex screws.
5. With the rear panel off, you will see a black drain hose that connects the tub to the pump. Remove the hose at the pump with a pair of pliers. The hose is just held on with a spring clamp.
6. Remove the front panel: pry the top off at 2 front hinge points with a flat head screwdriver. With the top up, remove two 5/16” hex screws holding the front panel and remove the front panel.
7. Remove suspension springs: To easily remove the suspension springs, you will need about 12 quarters (or nickels) for each spring. I hope I can describe this part clearly. For the removal of each spring, tilt the top of the tub away from you as far as you can in order to stretch out the spring. Now insert coins between the gaps in the spring coil, alternating the coins on each side of the coil to keep the spring coil straight. Then tilt the top of the tub back toward you to release the tension on the spring and you should now be able to easily unhook the spring from the tub. The coins keep the coil stretched out for re-installation later. Repeat for the other 5 coils. Note: Others have mentioned using a metal electrical box for this, but I can’t visualize it.
8. Now raise the washer top and prop it against the wall (or have a helper hold it vertical). Follow the small clear “water level” hose that runs from the control panel to the rear of the tub and disconnect it from the tub. It is just held by a small spring clamp.
9. Remove the tub assembly. Remember the position of the tub before you take it out. Place a couple of 4”x4”s (or equivalent) on the ground to support the edges of the washer tub when you turn it upside down. With the springs removed, the drive belt off, and the water level hose and drain hose detached, you should be able to simply lift the tub assembly out. Lay the tub upside down on the 4x4s.
10. Remove the snubber ring: There is no need to remove the flywheel if you have a small or fairly shallow socket (or an angled open end wrench). My small socket worked fine. As others have mentioned, remove the snubber ring by backing out the six 5/16” hex bolts that hold the snubber ring in place. Do not remove the bolts completely. The metal retaining plate is supposed to be under spring tension, but mine did not rise when I loosened the bolts, so I had to pry it up slightly with a flat screwdriver to form enough of a gap to insert the new snubber ring. Make sure the new snubber ring is seated evenly and re-tighten the 6 bolts.
11. Reinstall: Place tub back into the cabinet, reconnect the thin water level hose, reconnect the drain hose at the pump.
12. Spring re-installation: As you hook each spring to the tub, make sure the bottom of the spring is hooked properly to the bottom of the cabinet. Then tilt the top of the tub away from you to stretch the spring out in order to remove the coins. Then tilt it back toward you to remove the tension. Repeat for the other 5 springs.
13. Re-install the front panel and the rear panel and place the washer top back in place.
14. Lay the washer on its side to reinstall the drive belt.
15. Hook up your hot/cold water, drain hose, tur
Parts Used:
Snubber Ring
  • Hank from Alpharetta, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Socket set
37 of 42 people found this instruction helpful.
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slipping drive belt
Tipped machine 45-degrees to reveal belt on bottom of machine. Used screwdriver to remove old belt which looked fine. Installed new belt (which arrived from PartSelect within 2-days) but it felt loose. Tried machine anyway and it works just fine. Easiest repair ever. Thanks, PartSelect!
Parts Used:
Drive Belt - 51 inches long
  • stephen from redondo beach, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
25 of 31 people found this instruction helpful.
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Washer jumping all over the place even with a small load.
I checked out your other repair information and deided I could do this. Ordered the part and it as her several days before I expected it.

Ok, let's do this thing.

MAGIC TOOLS:
5/16" socket or wrench and #2 Phillips screwdriver and something to remove hose clamps - I recomend a 6" to 8" vice grips and a 6" to 8" plires.

1. Pulled the washer out in the middle of the floor and disconnected the hoses and removed the rear access cover, disconnected the pump hose, released the top using a 1/8' common screwdriver in that narrow space between the top and the front panel. Removed the 2 screws holding the front panel on and removed the front panel.

2. Disconnected fill level hose- toward the left rear side - turned the machine on it's side and walked the drive belt off, tipped it back up right and removed the 6 springs - be sure to note their orientation and location.

3. Lifted the whole assembly out of the top of the machine and set it upside down next to the machine.

4. Loosened the screws holding the snubber in place - NOTE I did not remove the screws - loosen them sequentially little by little untill you can get the snubber to come out. I did not remove the pulley as my Craftsman ratchet and standard - short - socket allowed me to get between the pulley and the screws to loosen them.

5. I removed the old well worn snubber, cleaned the area up and the new snubber actually fell into place and I retightened the screws in the reverse order until they were solid feeling.

6. I lifted the assembly back into the frame, reconnected the springs and the pump hose and the fill level hose. I reinstalled the front cover - AND HERE IS THE IMPORTANT PART!

7. You are so happy this is going so well that you forget to put the BELT back on before you hook up the hoses, so you have to unhook the hoses to put the belt back on and then rehook the hot and cold hoses and drain hose again.

8. Except for number 7 this is a piece of cake. My only concern is how often will I have to do this. The machine is only 8 years old.
Parts Used:
Snubber Ring
  • Gary from Sioux City, IA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
22 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
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