CVE3400B Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

I did not mark wires with their associated numbered connections on the old burner but I did take pictures prior to removing the old burner. This slightly complicated finding the right connections for the wires on the new burner but the photos taken were invaluable in doing so. The placement of burner connections between new and old was different. Additionally, there were 2 connections on new and old that were not numbered. These turned out to be the power to the inner and outer coils and their connections were determined by examining the burners and connecting accordingly. Also, not mentioned in the instructions was a light on the new burner that the old burner did not have. I removed the light and the wire connecting it to the burner and connected the freed new burner connector based on the old/new burner connection numbering. Despite my lack of confidence that I correctly installed the burner, it worked on the first try and I am very happy to have it fully functional again.

The replacement unit was a substitute part. Wiring slightly different. Instructions bare minimum. Follow instructions and it does work. No instructions as to how to remove the stove top. Been there before so sort of knew how. Nothing in the Jenn Air manual for stove top removal. The control panel has to be removed, two screws on each side and four hex screws on bottom, this allows for the disconnect of wiring for the top.
Remove the two trim pieces one on each side. One screw at top and one at bottom. The trim piece will move towards the rear and come off. Two screws on each side and two in the back will release the top. Remove top and lay on padded surface. You are ready to replace unit.

My genius scientist husband responsible all electric string connections, I responsible buy right parts and all support work, we worked as a team and fix the problems:) :)

replaced burner by following the wiring from the photo we took. worked god except was cooking to hot and would not cycle. went to use my smaller burner in the back on the same side and the center of the double came on. so we watched another video looked at what we did wrong with the wiring. here we wired the burner slightly wrong we did not follow the numbering. this time followed the numbering and all is good. burner is working good and cycling.

Isolated circuit by disconnecting cooktop breaker.
Disconnected blower duct, raised cooktop above the countertop to access screws holding the glass surface.
Blocked in place--no need to completely remove cooktop.
Removed screws around top of pan with 1/4-inch nut driver--only need to remove any screws close to top of pan and glass surface.
Lifted off glass surface.
Dual burner switch bracket needs to be removed to access switch and to disconnect wire harness connections.
Note there was one screw holding bottom of bracket which was hidden by the wire harness.
I was concerned with connections from other reviews; however, in my case, the switch and connections were identical to the original--no problem.
Reinstalled bracket and glass cooktop--need to remember flange location (inside versus outside) to assure easy alignment of screws. Drop cooktop back into countertop and reconnect blower duct.
Powered back up and dual burner now fully functional.

IMPORTANT WIRE CONNECTIONS: The manufacturer instructions describing where each wire connects is woefully incomplete. There are 6 or 7 wires to connect and only 2 are explained in the instructions. I took several photos of the original switch showing where each of the wires was connected before disconnecting and installing the new switch. If I hadn't taken the photos I would have been completely lost on where each wire connected.

I followed your excellent service instructions.
This was the reason I purchased the part from you,
even though other websites had the same part for considerably less

My cook top has the red wire piggybacked along all the cook top switches. It was easy enough to reroute the red wire coming from the dual surface burner to pin 4 i believe on the new switch. Follow the previous thread and look at the instruction sheet online for this switch

Ordered a replacement grease filter.

I merely lifted the downdraft cover and inserted the new screen as
directed. THANK YOU FOR YOUR PROMPT RESPONSE TO MY ORDER.

Followed Igor’s instructions and it was very easy and straightforward. New switches work great.

number to get the correct part was problem. item number was a whirlpool number. all other soureces i could not get the part. part selec t was able to come up the whirlpool item number. when i received the correct part it did not take long repair the problem. thank you for all your help.

Turn Circuit breaker off.Open the Oven door removed the 2 screws to the top surface. Disconnect the wire harness mark and remove the wires from the Old Element, removed the screws holding the element to top surface, Remove element replace with new element. Install wires, install screws, reconnect wire harness reposition surface. Reinstall screws and turn Circuit breaker power back on. Done and Done

raising the cook top on to 2x2s, one on each end, allowed me to remove the 9 sheet metal screws that keep the glass top fastened to the box containing all of the heating elements and controls. After removing the control knobs and the glass top, everything was clearly visible. Removing the four screws that hold the control box frame in place allowed me to turn the switches upside down and photograph the placement of all of the wires on the pins. I then transferred the wires from the old switch to what I thought were the corresponding pins on the new switch(the replacement switch has more pins, and they are not located in exactly the same spots as the old switch). When I turned the power back on, the switch turned the burners on, I had heat but the indicator lights didn't work. I turned the breakers back off and rewired according to a previous commentors wiring directions(his model was not exactly the same as mine), the indicators worked but I was back to no heat. I called my son, who has his own commercial electric company,and he looked at my photos from before, the diagram that came with the new switch, and it took him about 15 minutes to reconnect the pins to different wires and when we turned the power back on---both indicators and heating elements worked. It was the dual switch and double indicator that made it more complex to figure out. Nice to have very smart kids.

Trial and error and reading and rereading the instructions.The use of the jumper wire was not detailed enough. Caller a repair man.