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Cracked oven door inner glass
Repair was quite easy, as long as you have the instructions for removing the door. The screws that hold the bottom of the door to the fixed hinge are placed into the side of the hinge assembly after removal; this holds the door at a 45 degree angle for easy removal. After that, just place the door on a flat surface and dismantle the door from the inside. The inner glass is contained in a metal frame with another piece of glass; this frame comes apart easily using the clips in each side. The door assembles easily after the glass is replaced; just take your time and give yourself enough room to lay out the parts as you go. Good luck!
Had to reference original owner's manual for instruction(s) on how to remove oven door. Used several "YouTube" videos to reference oven door design (Oven door glass is actually several layers of glass.) After completing about 30 mins of research and finding the right square drive bit, the repair went smoothly and without complications. The biggest challenge was researching and understanding what part(s) were needed and how to replace them. It seemed liked a lot of work doing the research however it sure beat a $350 repair bill. It cost me $90 and about 1 1/2 hours of total time. Oven works better than ever, thanks parts select for the part(s) and diagram(s) ...
replacing the fan on a convection oven (fan was making a vibration noise)
This was the first time replacing the fan. It is a lot easier to work in the oven compartment with the oven door removed, only two screws on the door and the hinges were released. I found that a couple of the screws were either rusted or stripped so I used a pair of pliers to remove the screws that were holding the diffuser in place. Once there was access to the fan I found that the fan was warped and that the blades were scraping against the back wall of the oven. The next challenge was to remove the retaining nut. I used a sheet metal screw to secure the warped fan to keep it from spinning. once I figured out that you have to turn the retaining nut to the right to loosen, it came off easily. 1/2" socket with extension. When I replace the fan I used two washers for spacers to make sure that the fan would not scrape the wall of the oven. Its been tested many times and the oven does not make that horrible sound anymore.
Stove pilot not clicking on any burner, oven works fine
Unplug the range. Remove screw to Take of the back panel on upper right corner. Unclip the old spark module, unplug the wires with the needle nose pliers and plug them into the new spark module same as the old module. Clip it on. Replace the back panel.
Have a double wall oven and the top oven would not shut off or broiler part would stay on and burn tops of food. Since bottom oven was not having any issues felt like it could Not be control panel so decided to try the temp sensor. Since replacing oven has worked properly.
Original Meat Probe insulation separated on the probe end
I searched the web for a replacement and Parts Select had a picture and part number for the exact same probe. I ordered the probe and it arrived very quickly. The problem was that the probe I received didn't match the picture as shown on the web site. Instead I received a probe that was a different color and the actual probe was about 2" shorter than the one I was replacing. I called customer service and was told that the probe I received was the new version that the older version was discontinued. If they had updated their pictures on the web site I would not have ordered the probe. Parts Select customer service did apologize for the issue and offered to have me return for a refund.
I will order from Parts Select but I will call first to verify that the item pictured is the actual item being shipped. Parts Select please update the part pictures to show the actual items being sold.
Both oven bake and broil elements lost power suddenly at the same time.
Installation of the temparature sensor, one of the technician recommended parts took no time, just two screws and a snap off/snap on part. It did not fix the problem. I then replaced the main control panel, which requires more work, but didn't solce the ussue either. I then replaced the thermal fuse, which wasn't mentioned by tech support, and required much more disassebly of the top panels of the stove, with still no fix to the problem. I am waiting to replace the thermostat heat sensor unit, the only other part in the circuit controlling power supply, requiring removal of the stove top again,
Burners would not stay on at lowest settings, Regulator suspected to be the problem
First, I watched a lot of videos on YouTube. All of them were very similar, and had similar repair instructions, doing all the work at the site of the regulator location. The gas supply flex line was easily detached, as well as the line that exited the regulator to feed the stove. The gas inlet nipple, however, was not willing to unscrew. My regulator was held on by Phillips head sheet metal screws, which were easy enough to unscrew, so I just removed the regulator, still attached to the gas connection nipple. I went to my shop and placed the regulator in a vise, careful to clamp either end, not the regulator valve itself, and used a deep socket over the nipple, and had to use a Breaker Bar to loosen the nipple. I cleaned the nipple where Pipe Dope had been used, and applied new sealant, then screwed it back on the the Regulator, once again using the socket and bar. Then I threaded the new regulator body with the sheet metal screws while it was clamped in the vise. (The new regulator was not threaded, and I had to use vise grips to hold the screws while turning them in) After that, installation of the new regulator was relatively easy. I wish Frigidaire had used hex head screws instead of the Phillips. After install, range worked perfectly. PartSelect delivered correct part in a timely manner.
sensor should pull into oven enough to easily unsnap and snap but didn't pull out
on the back side of the wall oven the sensor wire was ziptied tight. we had to totally pull oven out of its wall space, remove back panel, unhook zip tie, feed through sensor hole around insulation, connect and then replace back and return and relevel the oven. I have
I actually watched Youtube while I was changing it. This video was not actually the same make up of my oven, even though the I typed in the model number. I manage to figure it any with the steps anyway. It was harder then I expected but not horrible. I think I did pretty well for a women. Patti
Took door apart, went online to partselect, ordered new glass, and put it back together. Oven looks like new. Makes sense to order the isolation as well when you do the repair
open door,throw the door latches at the hinges and remove door. Take the out of the outer panel so you can separate the glasses. remove clip that hold the outer glass in place. I ordered a replacement glass as I never thought that it would come clean it looked so bad, but it cleaned up like new so I now have a spare glass for my oven door. Just reverse the way you take it apart to put it back together.
removed the door from the range. removed the 4 layers of glass and carefully set aside the unbroken ones. the 3rd and 4th glasses were held together with a metal frame which had to be dismantled. The old broken glass was rusted and hard to get out of the frame. It had to be cleaned thoroughly of broken glass and rust. the removal process could then be reversed to assemble the parts and re assemble the door to the front of the range
