CES700P3M2D1 General Electric Range - Instructions

The existing terminal block on my Ge oven/Range had melted due to a loose wire causing sparking and starting the plastic casing of the terminal block on fire and melting it, Part select made the part easy to find and had it at my house in 2 days. All I had to do was remove six screws to take the back sheet metal cover off of the oven. Unscrew the terminal connections remove two mounting screws that held the terminal on to the oven body. This was a little trickier than it should have been because the melted plastic had reformed making it very hard to access the mounting screws. i then mounted the new piece and plugged the oven in, it took 15 minutes and was very easy. definitely saved me at-least a $100 for the service call i would have made if finding the part wasn't so convenient

Per the instructions included with part.

removed two phillips screws. Unplugged electrical connections replaced unit from PartSelect. They sent holder cover and new bulb (surprise). Great store with great directions.

Removed oven from cabinet. unblug old sensor pluged in new and reinstalled oven. Esay repair though wish oven was designed so did not have to pull itout of cabinet which requires disconect electric cabel

I downloaded the installaion manual from the web for this model. First htings first, I located the circuit breaker for the oven and turned it off. Removed the lower trim piece from the bottom, next lifted the oven door off its hinges and set it to the side. I then wrapped a couple of small towels around the hinges for the door as per the manual (the hinges can pinch a finger). I then removed the four screws which secured the oven into the cabinet. Next I slid the oven forward allowing me access to the rear. I removed the pieces from the rear to gain access to the sensors connector, and unpl;ugged the sensor. Went around to the front and unscrewed the 2 screws securing the sensor and removed it. I then installed the new sensor, replaced the rear covers, slid the oven back into the cabinet, secured the four screws, snapped on the lower trim, remounted the oven door, and turned the breaker on. Oven working fine now.

Took off oven door and removed racks. Removed the cover on the back side (5 screws removed with nut driver) Pulled sensor out the front side of the oven. Threaded the new sensor through and put all back together.

Turned off power to the oven, Removed the oven light housing, installed new housing, turned power on and walla.

Disconnected the old socket ( 2 srews ) removed the two wires from the old socket, reconnected them to the new socket and reinstalled the lamp.

Turn off breaker to stove. Remove 2 screws in front under stove top molding. Raise stove top from front on hinges in back. I used a piece of wood to support top up while I worked on burner. Remove screws holding old burner in place. I found my problem on the old burner - the outer element had been shorted and fried. Carefully remove each wire and reinstall in new burner in proper location. Reinstall burner and stove top with old screws.

Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.

First and most important trun off curcit breaker. Use 1/4 inch but driver to remove socket (2) screws. Remove ground and hot wire clips from old socket, replace on new socket. Screw back into oven ceiling and turn on power. Reset clock and your are done. Very simple.

The real challenge on this particular glass top range was to figure out which screws had to be removed to lift the glass top to get at the burner elements to do a replacement.

Removed the two side screws holding the control panel in place. Disconnected the two wire harnesses and took off the control panel to allow easier access. Then examined the screws attaching the vertical plate in front of the glass top. Most of them were on the on the vertical plate but a few were in the bottom of the horizontal plate. If successful, the vertical plate can be moved forward giving access to the glass top. You pull up on the front of the glass top and when it just clears the vertical front plate you pull the top forward a bit to get the back end of the top out of the read chrome vent piece. I then leaned the glass top up to about a 75 deg angle and then propped the top with a 24” wooden garden stake. I used two stakes to hold the top up. The challenge after that is to remove the old burner and carefully note the colored wiring and locations of the connectors and removed the three old clips. That took a bit of effort. several of the wiring harnesses were very short so you had to be careful when removing and installing the new burner. The burner has numbers stamped on the metal and you must note each number where the clips are located. The rest is to reverse the process. Some of the insulation pieces came off and some of the insulation clips fell off and you must be sure to get the insulation pieces back on in the correct location. Expect a lot of gunk that needs to be cleaned on the top and trim pieces. I save around $200 by doing my own replacement.

I have a double oven and coincidently I had to replace the two Oven Light Assemblies.
I am really glad about your web site because once I got the number from my oven model you guys were the first ones that came up. Thanks to your prompt and reliable service my oven is back to its original state.

Jose Figueroa

It’s easy to replace and you can found out the video from YouTube to follow the instructions

Pull the range out from the wall to access the rear of the unit. Turn off power to the range by unplugging from the wall or turning off the breaker.
Remove the large back cover from the oven portion of the range. Locate the two small wires and connector which is located between the two connections for the broiler heating element. Unplug the small connector.
Open the oven door and remove the screw that holds the temperature sensor in place between the broiler heating elements on the inside of the oven. Gently pull the sensor and the wire connector through the hole and discard.
Feed the new connector and wire through the hole from the inside of the oven. Attach the sensor to the oven wall with the screw.
Go to the back of the unit and make sure that no insulation has gotten into the oven space. Re-route the new wire being careful not to let it touch the contacts for the broiler heating element. Reconnect the wires to the connector and replace the back cover of the oven.
Plug in the range or turn on the circuit breaker. Slide the range back into place and re-level the unit. Test the oven to make sure the temperature is accurate and will maintain temperature.