This is the replacement fuel line 25 Inch for several OPE products that use small engines. The fuel line carries fuel from the tank to the carburetor. Over time, the fuel line can become badly clogged...
This fuel filter is for lawn and garden equipment engines.
Fuel filter cleans the fuel before it reaches the carburetor.
Work in a well-ventilated area when installing this part. Drain the fuel...
This part is the replacement tank/purge line for your outdoor power equipment. It is made of clear plastic and is sold individually. The tank/purge line returns excess fuel from the carburetor to the ...
This primer bulb, also referred to as a purge bulb, is in the fuel system of handheld outdoor power equipment. Located on or near the carburetor, it assists in drawing fuel into the carburetor when yo...
This genuine Spark Plug, RCJ8Y, is sold individually, comprised of steel and ceramic, and is white and silver in color. The function of the spark plug is to ignite a mixture of air and fuel in the com...
This part is the replacement fuel cap assembly for your chainsaw. It is made of black plastic and is sold individually. The fuel cap prevents fuel from spilling out of the chainsaw and prevents debris...
This air filter is a genuine OEM part that is often used within chainsaws and is compatible with several different models. Sold as an individual part, this filter is solely the foam filter, and does n...
This Chain Bar Adjuster kit is a kit which contains all necessary hardware for adjusting a chain bar on a chain saw. Installation is rated as "Easy" and requires a screwdriver, wrench set and socket s...
The OEM Mounting Bar Nut is a nut used to install a mounting bar to your machine. Installation requires a wrench set and socket set, and is rated as "Easy". This nut attaches to the chainbar studs.
This Bar Pin Adjuster is an OEM part used to adjust the tension on the bar, which loosens or tightens the chain. It attaches to the slot in the bar, and the chainsaw bar adjusting screw. Installation ...
1) While still attached to the fuel tank, I first sized up the old fuel lines with the newer fuel lines. 2) With a pair of needle nose players, I then removed the old dry rotted fuel ?? lines, from the fuel tank. 3) I cleaned the fuel tank and around the carburetor area, to insure that there was no debris, that could possibly fa
... Read morell into the path of the new fuel lines installation. 4) I then installed the smaller one of the fuel lines, so that it would be out of the way, of the larger fuel line. I Pulled the fuel line through the smaller hole in the fuel tank, with needle nose players. I pulled the smaller fuel line out through the fuel tank filler hole, attached the fuel filter to the smaller fuel line. I Made sure that the fuel filter was extended to the furthest end of the fuel tank bottom. Six inches in all. I then attached the smaller fuel line to the carburetor. 5) I Installed the larger fuel line, followed the same procedures as the smaller fuel line. 6) Both fuel lines where cut on an angle for easy installation. No lubricant was necessary. 7) I filled up the fuel tank with fresh fuel and oil, new air filter and spark plug. It started on the first pull. Amazing.
Disassembled it and cleaned fuel tank. Cut and ran new fuel lines, installed filter and reassembled. Parts fit perfectly and got running after not running for over 20 years.
Straight forward, trick for the piston ring was to cut a soda can to make a sleeve that could be wrapped around the piston ring. A bit of duct tape with a tab held it shut until the piston was in position then it was easily removed as the piston was slid in.