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AW20K2H Admiral Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the AW20K2H
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Washer Traveled and load would not be balanced. Washer would bang loudly.
Followed directions from video on your site. It was very helpful. The snubber ring fixed the problem.
Parts Used:
Rear Leveling Leg and Foot with Pad Snubber Ring
  • James from ELMORE, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Washer was making noise during spin cycle
Hardest part was finding part that needed the needed repair. Searching the web for issues associated with the sound resulted in many links. Once the sound was found, I went to the video to see how to remove the Water Pump so I could examine it to confirm that was the correct piece. It took about 15 minutes to remove the part. Since I had to remove the belt to get it out, I realize that the belt needed replacement as well. So both parts were ordered. Replacing the parts also took about 15 minutes. Relatively easy repair. Be aware that the video on the part select video shows the water pump in a different location than the Maytag washer. To get to the Maytaq water pump, there is a panel in the back that had to be opened to access the water pump.
Parts Used:
Drain Pump with Pulley Drive Belt - 51 inches long
  • William from MORGANVILLE, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Random slow spin during Rinse cycle and would then shut off and not drain
Top loader May Tag washer with open bottom. After research I presumed it needed a new belt, or Transmission, which runs 3 pulleys under the open bottom. After tipping the washer back for inspection, saw oil splatter underneath. Removed old belt by turning largest pulley on Transmission while pulling the belt "off" the edge. Belt was aged, Stretched and worn. Belt and all 3 pulleys were oily causing slippage. The main large Drive pulley on the Transmission shaft, has a plastic snap on grease cup at it's center. I snapped it off with screw driver. The cup was partially full of thinned old grease causing the oily mess. There's a C clip inserted in a groove on the end of the drive shaft holding the pulley on. Removed the C clip with screw driver tip and slid off the Drive pulley. The Center of the pulley contains a plastic ratchet assembly that operates the washer tub cycle to rotate and stop and repeat. The ratchet assembly falls right out, and in the end of transmission is a Thrust washer which can be pulled of easily also. I Cleaned all 3 pulleys with De-greaser and finally with Rubbing Alcohol to dry the pulley surfaces. Then cleaned and removed all grease from the plastic ratchet assembly parts and cleaned them. Then I Repacked everything including the Drive shaft with "heavier" Grease that would not break down so easy. Reassembled everything in reverse and installed on the shaft. Snapped the C clip back on to hold pulley back in place and then the Grease cup, which just snaps back in place with a push. Installed new drive belt in the same manner it was removed, only in reverse by turning the pulley, and pushing the belt "on" over the edge of the pulley. Problem fixed and washer works perfect again with Noticeably better operation through all washer cycles.
Parts Used:
Drive Belt - 51 inches long
  • Frank from BRADFORD, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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water filling up inside washer from a steady drip
First, I unplugged the washer.

then, I used a small prybar to pop open the front top of the waher. It's hinged at the back top edge. I drew a rough sketch of the four color coded connecting wires so I could disconnect the old water inlet valve and replace it the same way with the new one.
( just in case I lost track of which wire went where.)

I cut off the water supply for both the hot and cold water, (you can also cut off the water main,) then diconnected the supply hoses--noting where the hot water was connected, and where the cold water connected. Maytag had cut out a "C" and
a "H" our of the back wall of the washer,
to assist with hose installation.

I unscrewed the two hex nuts holding the old inlet valve to the back wall of the washer. ( from the outside back of the machine.) and pulled the old inlet valve up to the top of the machine. I didn't remove the basket that holds the laundry, so it was a kind of tight workspace.

Once you reconnect the wires to the new water inlet valve, attach the inlet valve to the washer wall, and reconnect the hoses, it's done. It's pretty simple.
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve
  • Doug from Alexandria, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
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My washing machine would be extremley loud when washing clothes then one day it stopped working.
First i unscrewed the bottom latch to check inside the maching, i then disconected the vertical style pump with pulley from its position and i discoverd a huge crack that was made by a loose pulley. After that i ordered another pulley from this web site easaly installed the pulley and now my maching works like new. The part was less than 50 bucks i saved over 200 bucks by not going out and buying a new machine.
Parts Used:
Drain Pump with Pulley
  • damian from carpentersville, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Noise from pump
On a scale of 1 to 5 (with 5 being the most difficult), I would rate this a 2 or 3. It is just a matter of knowing how to access the pump. First I unplugged the washer. Then used putty knife to push in clips to lift up top of washer (the clips are located about 1 inch in from each side). Used socket to remove the two screws holding on front panel. Disconnected the two hoses from pump using pliers to squeeze clips (be sure to have cup or bowl handy because water will come out of the hoses). Lifted up washer and removed belt from pump. Used socket wrench to remove pump and replace with new one. Reattached hoses and belt. Reattached front panel and closed the top of the washer. Everything was easy to access.
Parts Used:
Drain Pump with Pulley
  • Donald from Brielle, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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Makes squeaky noise when stop spinning
I checked the belt 1st. It didn't look like it could be the problem, but it needs replacement anyway. Replacing belt is very easy, this 1 is at the bottom of the washer.

1. Unplug washer.
2. Move it away from the wall.
3. Tilt washer back & support the bottom front with lumber.
4. You can see the belt looped around 3 pulleys. Water pump in the back. The motor is in the right front & is spring loaded.
5. Grab the motor pulley & push it back as far as it will go, & remove the belt from it.
6. Do the reverse to install new belt.

There is a Brake Rotor & Lining Assy on this washer. I looked up the part on this web site, sure enough somebody else had this same problem. Part is on order. If this is not the fix, I will revise this posting later.
Parts Used:
Drive Belt - 51 inches long
  • Hing from Toms River, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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I have hard water and it ruined the valve so the water would not shut off
Popped the top of the washer up and on the right rear of the washer was the valve. Disconnected the hoses and removed the screws, drop the new valve in and replaced the hoses and it was done. Total time was less then 5 minutes. Any one can do it!
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve
  • Cindy from McGregor, MN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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part received one day after ordering, excellant
took back off washer with nutdriver, pulled wires off by hand, ( was unplugged ). pliars used to remove hose, regular clamp put back on. reinstalled back plugged in, tested water,,,, done
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve
  • jrrry from Sebree, KY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
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The washer was jumping all over the place and leaking water during the spin cycle
I took out the agitator first, then I took out the inner tub, next I took out the outer tub, and last I took out the transmission assembly. After replacing the snubber I put the transmission assembly back on, then the new outer tub and next the inner tub. Last I put the agitator back on.
Parts Used:
Plastic Outer Tub Screw Snubber Ring
  • Elmer from Fort Campbell, KY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Water leaking when washer was filling with water.
Took off the back plate. Looked to see where it was leaking. Squeezed the clamps on top and bottom to remove from hose and pull hose out.
Parts Used:
Tub to Pump Hose
  • Colleen from Glenflora, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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Water inlet valve not closing.
Disconnected the power plug. Turned off the hot & cold hose water supply. Put down old bath towel. Disconneced hoses from machine inlet valve. Opened entire top for access to electrical connections & fill hose. Replaced inlet valve, new wire connectors. Replaced the hot & cold water hoses.

This was my first washing machine repair.
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve
  • Stan from McAllen, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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No belt and no motor gear
Pop the top of the washer and use the nutdriver to remove the two screws holding the frontpanel on. Use the nutdriver for two more screws holding the plastic motor cover on. Use nutdriver for the two BIG screws holding the motorplate to the washer frame. After this, I literally beat/chiped/sawed the old motor geat off. Once that was done, I put the new one on; had to use a hammer to knock it all the way on (try not to damage the clips). Reassemble everything. Flip washer over and place bet around two smaller gears. Rotate main tub gear to feed belt on. Make sure you use the nutdriver to loosen/tighten the motor positioner screws in the slots if things aren't working here.
The only really hard thing was taking the old motor gear off.
Parts Used:
Drive Belt - 51 inches long
  • Matt from Hoboken, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
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loud squeal when stopping and leaking
Removed the inner basket and outer tub to replace the gasket and rubber seal. just had to remove about a dozen screws to get it out.

Tipped the machine up to replace the belt.
The noise didn't go away at first. I decided to spray all the pulleys with some silicone spray, that did the trick.
Parts Used:
Tub to Housing Gasket Tub/Housing Seal
  • Michael from Carmel, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Socket set
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Pump was frozen
Replacing the pump with the new pump was very easy for me, because of my degree in Mechanical engineering, so I am use to dealing with pumps, engines, gears,etc. However, my wife watched me do the entire job and she is now able to replace this part in the future. The design of the Maytag is very simple to repair, and for that I am very greatful that we can order the parts and do the repairs ourselves withhout having to call a repairman. This was our first problem after 6 years of smooth operations by this washer.
Parts Used:
Drain Pump with Pulley
  • Frank from Sugar Land, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set, Wrench set
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the AW20K2H
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