ARGS7650WW (P1130752NWW) Amana Range - Instructions

Instructions with parts are minimal. Looked at exploded drawing and read other installation descriptions on site. From the read I knew it was easier than it looked. Opened oven door. Unscrewed screws about 1/3 of the way up on both sides on inside face of door; these are the only thing attaching the hinges to the door. (Save all the screws you remove - they make work better than the ones with the parts.) The door can now be pulled off the range. I pulled the broken part out of the right side with pliers. Remove the screws below and about 8" up from the hinge on each side. When this is done you can pull the hinge out from the slot from the front. Open the new hinges up and they will slip through these same openings and position them as the ones you removed were positioned. Replace the screws. On the parts I received the lower screw holes on the hinge were not tapped. The original screws worked a bit like self-tapping ones. If you lose any parts or need to get to the hinge from the back you can take out the drawer.

Subject range is in a rental house and receives much use and abuse. The repair was necessary due to the door having 2, 1-2 inch cracks one on each side so the door bent outward. Obviously in the past when the oven door was completely in the open position much weight was placed on the door cracking the sides and bending the door. Consequently, when the oven was in use and the door was closed being that the door was bent outward heat escaped from the top of the door heating up the control panel. The control panel would get so hot that it could not be touched without burning the fingers. Replacing this range would cost approximately $2200, so we had to try to repair it. I went to the ParSelect website and ordered the part I needed.
Being that the oven door is heavy and large it took two people to disassemble and reassemble the door. We had quite
a wrestling match with the door (consider too, that we never do this type of job) but after about 3 hours our range was almost like new.
Disappointing that a replacement mylar cover for the control panel is no longer available at PartSelect. We would appreciate getting our hands on one as the existing mylar cover is cracked.
The oven has been successfully used since the repair and we have a good fit and the control panel is now only warm instead of blistering hot. FANTASTIC!
THANK YOU


Time will tell.

Sincerely

Craig and Judy Crouch

First, I unplugged power to the stove. Next, I removed the grills, ceramic burner discs, gas knobs, and glass plate (under the knobs). Next, I removed the 2 screws exposed by the control knobs. Next, I removed the 2 screws holding each burner assembly to the cook top. I then unplugged the wires attached to each burner assembly and set the assemblies aside. Now I was able to remove the top. Once removed, it was very easy to locate and remove the bracket holding the old sparking module. Then it was just a matter of removing the wires from the old module and attaching them to the new module... attaching the new bracket to the stove and then re-assemble the cook top. Honestly, this was a very simple repair... and probably took me longer to describe the steps than actually execute.

I first thought the burner was bad but after some
testing realized that the Spark Ignition Module was
faulty. You have to remove the screws from the four
burners to remove them and the stove top. Then it
is a fairly easy job to replace the module. Just be
careful to reconnect the wires in the correct places
that you removed them from the old module.

I took out the oven racks. There are 2 cross head screws and 1 screw with a hex head holding the igniter. Pulling out the igniter carefully and the wire nuts also came out. Replaced the wires using the existing wirenuts and slid the igniter into place. Replaced the 3 screws and DONE. Wish the igniters were a little cheaper as this is the third one to go weak. The new one draws about 3.2 amps while the old one only drew 2.85Amps, not enough to open the gas valve. Oven works Fine now. Thanks parts select for the rapid delivery.

Removed old assembly, attached wires to new and inserted into space for same. Of course you must turn off the range circuit breaker. The part that took the most time was removing the old assembly. Once that was done, the rest took only a few minutes.

i had to remove quite a lot of screws in the bottom "pan" of the over to get to the igniter wiring. once it was apart, it was easy to see how to disconnect and reconnect the new igniter. the trickiest part is to put the igniter into the metal sheeted housing before you try to thread the wiring through to the plug at the back of the stove. overall, this is an easy rip out and replace process.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

Removed oven door. Removed three screws on ignitor holding bracket. Pulled out the range from the wall and reached underneath to access the wire nuts on the wires. Removed old ignitor and replaced with new one. Reconnected wires and then and replaced bracket and that's it. Works great now.

I removed all 4 burners 2 screws holding each,replaced the ignition module,wire for wire,reassembled after cleaning the stovetop.I,m my wife's hero.

I called the local appliance parts store and they said it would cost $60-80 and take a week to order. I paid $16 and received my rack in 2 days!

I just ordered a new wire oven rack from you. When it came all I had to do was to remove it from the carton it came in and place it in the oven. It fit perfectly. Thanks

Philips is all that's needed. Remove the burners (2 screws each) lift off top of stove, replace the ignition module. put all back together and your done. Local parts store wanted $80+ for the module. PartSelect only $50 total cost and it hit my mailbox in TWO days! Thank you PartSelect.

remove grate - flip upside down - be sure holes are clean and dry - using toothpick, swab some RTV sealant into the holes and a bit on the pads ... insert pads till they seat - be sure to hold in place till all air is evacuated - wipe excess RTV with paper towel...DONE

Removed two screws per burner. Unhook wires. Putting back broke slide on connector and had to replace. That took longer than the whole job. I ordered the part before 3:00 pm and it was at my house tjhe next morning which was hard to believe. The instructions that come with part made no sense what so ever. Thanks for the quick service and I will be back.
Dave