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Outer Heater ring not working on dual burner.
Turned off power to unit. Tilted up Glass top and removed two screws holding rear hinges to range. Then I unplugged wire harness from lower range and placed the Glass top facing down on counter top with towel for cushion. Removed 1 screw holding center of burner to support frame, two alignment screws on perimeter, and two screws holding support frame to glass top. This allowed me to slide out the old element with all wiring connections intact. Placed the new assembly in same location under support frame, noting numbered positions of two alignment screws from old unit. This is necessary to properly align heater to surface glass. Replaced all screws connecting burner to frame. Then I removed each wire one-by-one from old unit, reconnecting to same location on new unit.
Replaced top in reverse order from removal. Powered on the circuit breaker and verified proper operation of dual unit with large/small selecttor switch. Total time to repair about 30 minutes.
Managed to reach down from the top, unscrew the old part, so I could remove from under the cooktop. Easy to trace the wires, and map them to the (slightly different) replacement. Works like a charm, and new part appears to be of higher quality than the old one.
Our Amana stove top letters had worn off the knobs. We bought new knobs a few years ago and the same thing happened. This time we bought new knobs and coated the lettering with 5-minute epoxy to preserve the lettering.
1. Open the circuit breaker feeding the range. Turn all range control switches ON to establish that there is no power. Remove all knobs. 2. Get under the range and remove the 2 hex-head screws securing the flex conduit to the bottom panel. Then remove the 20 hex-head screws securing the panel to the range. Lower the panel and place aside, and then after checking for no voltage disconnect the red and black incoming wires by pulling on the spade connectors. Make sure you mark which wire went where. 3. From below apply pressure to the range frame to free the top surface gasket from collected food debris, then from above lift our the range and place upside down on a towel. Support the range with wooden blocks so that the unit is not resting on the knob shafts. 4. The control switches are all mounted on a common bracket with two screws for each switch. The first task is to remove two screws on each side holding the bracket to the frame, and then two wire harnesses on each side. Then gently move the bracket and rotate it sidewards so you have access to the screws holding down the switches. 5. Remove the defective switch leaving all the wires still connected. 6. Install the new switch and transfer the wires from the defective switch. 7. You're done, now restore everything in reverse, just make sure all wires move freely and not pinched.
The infinite switch controlling one of the range top burners failed.
1 - Turned off electricity to the cook top. 2 - Removed the range top from the cutout in the counter. 3 - Removed the smooth top by removing the screws around the perimiter of the smooth top. 4 - Removed the screws securing the corner closest to the dead switch. 5 - Removed the screws holding the channel, onto which the infinite switched were attached, to the frame of the cooktop base. 6 - Removed the dead switch by removing the screws that hold it to the channel. 7 - One by one move the wires from the old switch to the new one. 8 - Reversed the process, 6 - 5 - 4 - 3 - 2 - 1, to put the cook top back together.
All in all the part was an exact replacement and the repair went really well.
This was a countertop mounted cooktop. The hardest part of the repair was getting the cooktop out of the hole and separating the glass top from the burner box. It is highly recomended that you have two people to seperate the top from the burner box. Be sure you turn off the breaker to the cooktop first before you do any work. One time saver is once you have the top sperated from the box use 2- 10"-12" pieces of 1x2 or 2x4 to prop the top open. This will eleminate the need to disconnect the power leads (be sure the breaker is OFF). If you are not electrically inclined mark the color of the wires to the corrosponding terminals on the new element BEFORE you remove them from the old element. The element that I replaced was the dual heat element. I ended up having to change 2 of the terminal ends on the wiring harness becacuse they were too small for the new element. Carefully remove the wires from the old elenent using needle nose pliers and remove the old element by removing the 2 screws that hold the element to the hold down clips, then loosen the clip mounting screws & remove the element. Change terminals if needed & reassmble in reverse order. Once I got it reassembled with a couple of the top mounting screws in, I turned on the breaker and tested for proper operation. Breaker OFF, finish reassembly and remount. You may want to consider replacing foam gasket before remounting. Good luck... R. Moore
Pulled stove out and unplugged it (energized wire at burner even with burner turned off) Removed screws to lift cook top Removed burner support brace Removed three screws to remove burner Removed connections from old burner, installed on new burner Replaced screws in burner to brace Replaced burner brace Lowered cook top and installed screws Plugged in stove and pushed it into space
2 controls were damaged and not working correctly. One would not properly shut off.
1. Turned off the 240V branch circuit to the cooktop. 2. Removed and inverted the cooktop. 3. Removed the bottom panel, used 1/4-inch nut driver to remove the sheet metal screws. 4. Confirmed the circuit was de-energized. Voltmeter set to AC, measure across the L1, L2 connections, should be 0 VAC or very close. 5. Make a diagram of the existing connections to the controls to be replaced, note all control markings (L1, L2, H1, H2, PL) as the replacement controls have connectors in different locations. 6. Remove the AC Mains plate, 2 sheet metal screws. 7. Make a diagram of the primary AC distribution blocks. 8. Remove the AC Mains input leads, Red and Black. 9. Remove the AC distribution to the controls from the primary AC distribution blocks. Needed to free up the control panel. 10. Remove the 4 sheet metal screws holding the control panel. 11. Rotate the control panel to access the screws holding the controls. Caution on the wires to the heating elements, watch for pinching. 12. Remove one control with the wires attached. 13. Install the replacement control. Secure the screws. 14. Transfer the wires, matching the connection marking (L1, L2, H1, H2, PL) exactly. 15. Do the same (12, 13, 14) with the next control. 16. Re-install the control panel. Check all wires for clearance. 17. Re-connect the control wiring to the AC primary distribution blocks. 18. Re-connect the AC mains wiring to the primary AC distribution blocks. 19. Re-install the AC mains plate. 20. Visually check all the connections. Shake out any debris. 21. Replace the bottom cover, installing all screws. 22. Remove the gasket strip from the mounting lip, clean the surface, install new gasket (weather stripping). 23. Re-mount the cook top. 24. Energize the 240VAC branch circuit. 25. Test the controls. Correct any errors. 26. Done! Go have some hot tea! (or a beer)
Dual Switch Amana Part # 0309550 is no longer available. Opted for this part. YOU MUST ALSO GET KSWITCH KNOB AS OLD ONE WILL NOT WORK Both burners are on but who cares. Better than spending $800 on a new cooktop. Turn off power. Push up top from underneath or carefully pry up top with screw driver. Top has sticky seal around rim so may require a little force. Put short piece of wood pieces across each corner to hold cooktop up. Remove all screws from around edge. Remove ceramic top. DO NOT TOUCH BURNERS Remove 2 scres on each end of switch panel. In order to lift out you must remove 2 screws on frame corner and 2 screws THAT hold burner support on frame. You can then lift up switch panel. Remove 2 screws holding OLD switch to panel. Remove wires from switch. MAKE SURE YOU PUT NEW WIRES IN SAME POSITION AS OLD SWITCH. Reverse to reassemble. Carefully test the burners before putting on the cooktop. Remmber to turn off power before putting on cooktop. NOTE: CHECK ORIENTATION OF SWITCH (COULD BE 180 DEGRESS) OFF. MAKE SURE KNOB OFF POSITION IS CORRECT.
The high ekement on a dual burner range top burned out
Turned off circuit breaker and unplugged. Opened oven door and removed 3 screws holding the range top to the range. Lifted top and proped open with a wooden block. Removed all 5 wires to the element and drew a diagram of where they came from noting the color code. Removed two screws holding the bar that supported the element and dropped slightly while removing the two standoff screws holding the element in place. slide the element out. The problem was that the element received from partselect.com did not physically match the terminals on the original. this required me drill out a brad on the terminal block cover to see how the terminal block was wired. I discovered that the different color wires on the old element went to physically different terminals on the new one. This was even though I had returned the first element received, got a new part no from matag and reordered. there are tiny markings on the terminal block that helped show the way. Be sure to find them and rewire according to these markings. 1a 2a 1b 2b as the terminal locations may be different. I am happy with the partselect,com and their attention to trying to get me the exact replacement. Also happy with their return policy.
First we turned off the power to the range top. Then propped the range top on small planks of wood in order in order to get to the 12 to 15 screws that held the top to the base. Once we had the top (glass) removed, we removed the four screws holding the bracket that held the front and rear elements. We then removed the bracket and elements, turned the bracket and elements over to remove the two screw type legs that held the dual element. Once the dual element was loose we disconnected the wires and reconnected to the new element. Then reversed the procedure to reinstall.
The inside coil on the dual burner was not working
This is a slide-in range, so I: 1. Turned off the circuit breaker for the range. The range is hard-wired, so can't just be unplugged. I determined the clock on the range went off. 2. Removed 4 screws holding the front control panel to the cooktop. Removed 2 screws from each side panel into the cooktop. Removed 4 screws from the rear panel holding the cooktop. 3. With my assistant (my wife) lifted the cooktop and tilted it so that I could access the underside. 4. Used an iPad to take photos from several angles of the wire connections from each burner control. Printed the one showing the connections on the dual burner control. 5. Removed the 4 screws holding the sheet metal support for the dual burner and one of the other burners. Released the spring steel retainers holding the dual burner. Removed the burner. 6. Used the iPad again to take photos of the connections to the dual burner, and printed it. 7. Removed all the wire connections to the burner. Checked continuity from the center (common) terminal to each of the other terminals. Determined that in fact the inside coil was open (burned out). 8. Removed the two screws holding the spring clip retainers on the old burner. Matched the old and new burners to determine where the spring clips should go. Drilled 2 small holes in the base of the new burner and screwed the clips from the old burner on the new one. 9. Now the tricky part: The new burner didn't have the exact same limiter and heat sensor probe as the old one. After several false starts, we were able to barely make out the terminal letter/number designations on the control and match them to the same letter/numbers on the new burner. It required a magnifier and a strong flashlight to read these engraved markings. 10. Made the connections on the burner. I used a pair of long-nosed pliers to carefully pull the connections off the spade terminals, and attch them on the new burner. 11. Mounted the burner to the sheet metal support using the spring clips previously installed. 12. Re-attached the 4 screws holding the burner support to the cooktop. 13. Carefully replaced the cooktop onto the range, paying special attention to not pinching any of the wires, and making sure all the wires, from all the burners were still connected. 14. Replaced all 12 screws holding the cooktop to the range. 15. Turned on the power, and checked all burners, including the new one, to see if they were opetating properly. YAY! They all worked!
It must be noted that we had to call a repairman to troubleshoot our installation the first time. We had reversed two of the wires to the new burner, because of the difference between the old and the new limiter connections. The engraved markings in the porcelain were very difficult to see. The instructions that came with the new burner never addressed this issue, and instead had very confusing (and worthless) instructions about replacing the limiter from the old burner to the new on. (This was not possible, anyway).
After the repairman left, we discovered the front burner that had been working, no longer was. With our newfound experience, we repeated the previous steps to take the range apart and discovered one of the wires had become disconnected from that burner. We re-connected it, re-attached the cooktop, and everything worked.
One telltale indicator that we had mixed up the connections on the burner, was the red "hot' warning light on the range top came on as soon as we restored power, even though no burners had been on. I should mention that the dual burner "worked" a couple of times even with the reversed connections, but then failed to work any more.
