79075604100 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Turned off power, took back off stove removed old probe.
I had to splice wires since new probe ends did not match up.
the instructions were to splice the wires. I had the breaker off for about 3 hours. this is not in the instructions, but being a widow, I had to ask a few people why it would not come on after I connected the wires.
After waiting, I turned the breaker on and my range came back on.

Repair was quite easy, as long as you have the instructions for removing the door. The screws that hold the bottom of the door to the fixed hinge are placed into the side of the hinge assembly after removal; this holds the door at a 45 degree angle for easy removal. After that, just place the door on a flat surface and dismantle the door from the inside. The inner glass is contained in a metal frame with another piece of glass; this frame comes apart easily using the clips in each side. The door assembles easily after the glass is replaced; just take your time and give yourself enough room to lay out the parts as you go. Good luck!

Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.

Had to reference original owner's manual for instruction(s) on how to remove oven door. Used several "YouTube" videos to reference oven door design (Oven door glass is actually several layers of glass.) After completing about 30 mins of research and finding the right square drive bit, the repair went smoothly and without complications. The biggest challenge was researching and understanding what part(s) were needed and how to replace them. It seemed liked a lot of work doing the research however it sure beat a $350 repair bill. It cost me $90 and about 1 1/2 hours of total time. Oven works better than ever, thanks parts select for the part(s) and diagram(s) ...

Removed the broken door handle with a screwdriver, replaced the new door handle with a screwdriver. Took less than a couple of minutes to make the repair.

This was the first time replacing the fan. It is a lot easier to work in the oven compartment with the oven door removed, only two screws on the door and the hinges were released. I found that a couple of the screws were either rusted or stripped so I used a pair of pliers to remove the screws that were holding the diffuser in place. Once there was access to the fan I found that the fan was warped and that the blades were scraping against the back wall of the oven. The next challenge was to remove the retaining nut. I used a sheet metal screw to secure the warped fan to keep it from spinning. once I figured out that you have to turn the retaining nut to the right to loosen, it came off easily. 1/2" socket with extension. When I replace the fan I used two washers for spacers to make sure that the fan would not scrape the wall of the oven. Its been tested many times and the oven does not make that horrible sound anymore.

I removed the broiler burner assembly held in by 5 screws across the inside top of the oven, as I removed the assembly the igniter slid out from the back of the oven and was attached to the assembly with a cannon plug, I disconnected the cannon plug and removed the whole assembly out of the oven and replaced the igniter which was attached by two screws and reassembled in the oven. Where I live in remote Alaska calling a repair technician is not an option, either figure it out or have a new appliance barged in.

1) Turn off the gas and disconnect the power

2) Remove oven door. There requires that you remove the two square drive (SD) bolts on the inside, partially close the door and lift it off the hinges.

3) Remove the grills.

4) At the back remove the rear shield (aluminum panel held by 2 SD sheet metal screws.

5) this exposes the broiler igniter and its two wires. If its been replaced in past, there should be two porcelain screw-on wire connectors. Undo the connectors by turning them counter-clockwise. With a volt-ohmmeter, measure the resistance across the igniter. If its open circuited, its broken. If not, then its in the circuit board, and this help stop here. If this is the original igniter, it ends in a plastic connector. Disconnect by pulling it apart from its mating plug and again, check the continuity of the igniter. If its defective, reconnect the connector and cut each wire on the igniter side. Strip back about 1/2 inch of insulation on each lead.

6) inside the oven, using the SD driver, remove the 4 screw securing the broiler burner from the roof of the oven. The burner can now be removed, pulling the burner away from the gas jet on the right.

7) The igniter is now exposed and can be remove by removing the two SD drive screws.

8) Replace with the new igniter, being careful not to touch the black element, and feeding the wires though the rear oven wall.

9)Reverse the above dissembly procedure.

10) Broil the sausages.

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

Slid oven out removed one screw one plug replaced part took 5 minutes.told parts repair the error message and they sent me the correct part in two days will use them again saved me from Repair man wanted 85 dollars just to look at it my cost was 28 for probe and 8 dollars for shipping already helped neighbor with their stove they needed new ignighter 12 dollars repair place want 110 to come look at it this site walks you through repair best service!!!!

Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....

had to use a tap and cut new threads. Also had to remove the top of the range, and the metal cover under the top.

Took back off the oven unscrewed the time control scaped old one off and put new one on. Than I put it back together again.
What a great place to shop!!!

First I removed all of the glass and broken parts. Next I placed the foil pieces on the back side of the glass. Next I put the glass into the slot. I then put the cap into place and then aligned the handle over it. With the help of another person, I inserted the screwed into the and saved us a lot of money that wback of the door (which is probably the hardest part) and tightened them. Everything looked great e would have spent on a new range.

Turn off gas,unplug,unbolt the burners(you have to do this to keep from bending and or kinking over the gas lines.Luck kept me from bending the lines out of whack.)All I needed was the electrode but I couldn’t find it available separately.I had to buy the whole front burner.Anyway remove the clip from the new part slide the electrode out.Tilt the top of the range up take the clip off of the old electrode slide it out put the new one in install clip.Plug it in,rebolt all the burners in.Careful not to bend the gas lines.put the top down turn on the gas,plug it in and light.