71024 LG Refrigerator - Instructions

Turn off power, remove upper and lower drawers (may need to open upper refrigerator doors to remove large freezer bin,) remove drawer supports (upper and lower), remove rear freezer panel (trick is to loosen 4 screws on fan bumpout to get the panel to come free from the freezer side wall), test thermistor with multimeter (should have continuity or near zero resistance across 2 orange fuse wires) before cutting zip ties, cut zip ties holding Thermistor in place, remove old Thermistor, install new Thermistor, install new zip ties, replace rear freezer panel, install upper and lower drawer supports, install drawers, turn on power, should be fixed if error code doesn't return after 6 hours.

Shut off water supply. Disconnect main supply line. Remove rear lower panel on back of refrigerator. Remove all tubing clamps on back. Disconnect leaking tubing from water supply valve. Remove water filter and unscrew/remove water filter housing. Replace tubing - connect to water filter housing then to water supply valve. Reconnect filter housing and filter. Reinstall lower panel, then main water supply line, then all tubing clamps. Turn water back on and check for leaks after discarding several glasses of water to fill filter. Job complete!

Turned of water to refrigerator and unplugged refrigerator. Removed the water line from refrigerator. Removed back panel. Removed mounting screw from the water valve, Unhooked wire harness from valve and removed the water line on back of valve. Reconnected wiring harness to new valve, reconnected water line on back of valve. Replaced the back panel to refrigerator and put the water line back on the new valve. Turned on water valve and checked for leaks. It's now dispensing water and ice.

An easy way to get a refrigerator out from the wall is to use a tow strap or 1/2 to 3/4 in. rope. Throw a loop behind refer while keeping both ends in your hands. Let it settle down to the lower half of unit and pull using both hands. Comes right out.
Remove lower panel. Unscrew water valve from cabinet. Remove all tube holders Lay some rags down to catch a little water drainage.
Turn off water supply valve at wall. Unplug Power. Remove filter and filter holder. (one screw).
remove tube from valve by removing plastic C clip. Push plastic ring towards the valve and pull out tube at same time.
With the tube free, remove filter, then mount screw to remove the inside filter holder. When it is out, pull the tube doing the same process as the lower end. Pull tube out and replace with new one putting everything back in reverse order.
Before placing tube holders back on, turn on water to check for leaks.
After turning water back on and plugging in power, push refer back into place.
While I was there, I also replaced the hose from the wall to the refer.

The Refrigerator now runs very quite.
After watching several videos I started on mine and found that it was a bit different than any in the videos. However all but the back panel was shown and that was helpful.
The back panel was a bit difficult but a hair dryer seemed to help .
All in all it was a good choice to do it myself as it was done quicker than waiting on a repair man.

0) Look on the internet for a DIY/or pro-shop Video
1) Pull the refrigerator away from the wall, unplug the power cable
2) Shut off the water at the wall valve
3) Disconnect the water line at the inlet valve on the refrigerator (lower corner, right side), this is a threaded pipe fitting requiring a small open end wrench
4) Remove the lower rear panel
5) Remove the water inlet and distribution valve assembly, there is one sheet-metal screw holding the assembly to the back edge of the refrigerator.
6) Carefully pull the assembly out of the back of the refrigerator, leave the distribution water lines attached, note the orientation
7) Disconnect the electrical connectors, note the orientation/types
8) Disconnect the water line from the inlet valve, remove the retaining clip, then pull out the line. Note - a small metal star shaped tube fitting may come out with the valve, this is fine and will not be used again.
9) Remove the inlet valve from the assembly (there are two small sheet-metal screws that are very tight, the correct/precise size, good quality Philips head screw driver is necessary or use a small set of vice-grips to grab the head of the screw)
10) Attach the new valve to the valve assembly, connect the electrical connectors, note - at the plastic refrigerator water line that connects to the inlet valve, trim/cut a small section off the end of the water line before connecting it to the valve. This will provide a fresh interface for the connection. Push the line in firmly and then install the retaining clip.
11) Perform a quick functional check before putting everything back together - Attach the water line from the wall, turn on the water, attach the electrical connectors, plug in the refrigerator power cable and test for operation and leaks.
12) Assuming no leaks/operational issues, unplug the refrigerator power cable again, turn off the water at the wall, disconnect the water line at the inlet valve and reinstall the valve assembly and rear panel. Reconnect the water line and plug in the power cable and you should be good to go.!

The heavy work is moving the fridge, then take off the lower plans. Use a bowel or cup for screws and the water line connector spacers so you don't loos them.
undo connections holding water line, including the bottom brakes for the solenoid. Reuse the spring around the lower waterline to prevent external wear on the line.

NOTE: remove the waterline connector spacers and save!
NOTE: you must compress (not pull) the connect to then pull the waterline out of the connectors.
NOTE: You must also remove the water filter and housing inside the fridge but this is easy.
MOTE: Test the line for leaks by turning on the water and then using the door water. The filter will need to refill so it may take a minute before water comes up. This line only have pressure when the door water is used or the ice maker needs to make ice.


After replacing the line, test the line for leaks by using the door water so the solenoid fills the lines

Replaced old hose and installed the new one. Was very simple with the instructions in your email..... step by step, could not of been any similar.... you guys rock

Removed back panel and water inlet valve and replaced with a new water inlet valve

Remove back door and then shut water of to the refrigerator. Then remove old valve. Have towel ready for excess water when you remove nut to valve. Install new valve screw to refrig. Turn on water and check for leaks.

Easy job. Just don't get the parts from this place. First part was no good and delivered was past deadline after I paid for expedited shipping. Had to get new part delivered which in three days increased in price and then still waited for ten days WITH expedited shipping. Have not been reimbursed for first part that was no good AND my expedited shipping fee. Shop somewhere else.

I waited for 2 weeks for a professional appliance repairman to fix my water leak. He kept telling me he was trying to get the part. I finally gave up on him and ordered the part online. Only took a few minutes for the repair. Got the part via mail in 3 days.

Easy repair. Unplugged refer. Took back cover off with screwdriver. Unscrewed the support for the pump. Unhooked water lines from both ends of bad pump. Pulled electrical line off the old pump. Put the support on the new pump, hooked up lines, and electrical plug and screwed the pump to the frame. Put the coever back on unit. Plugged back into wall. Worked immediately.

Removed the damaged tube and replaced the it with a new one.

Gave model number on website, found picture of icemaker section. Ordered part that came in 3 days and switched old for new