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Intermittent problem with lid switch, no high speed spin/pump out
Disconnect power, unsnap and raise machine top cover w/lid, remove old switch - two screws under lid, taking care to not drop loose actuator lever into machine. Remove control panel back and disconnect switch wire connector. Intall new switch, taking care to not drop loose actuator lever into machine, connect switch wires inside control panel. Replace panel cover and lower machine top cover w/lid and snap into place, reconnect power, verify operation...
Lid switch had deteriated over time and no longer made contact
removed the screw holding the actuator, ordered the new part and replaced it when it arrived. Shipping was really fast and I even received it one day early.
Open the top of the washing machine by using a putty knife to release the latches at the right and left side. Prop up the top so it doesn't fall while working. Remove the inlet hoses and put in bucket to catch water. Remove the two screws that hold the inlet valve in place. Remove the wires from the inlet valve. (One of the spade connectors one wire broke and I had to replace it.) I used needle nose pliers to pull the spade connectors off. Remove the outlet hose. Throw out old valve assembly. Attach hose to new valve assembly. (My old valve assy outlet was slightly smaller in diameter than the new valve, but I was able to get the outlet hose to stretch enough to fit--couldn't use old spring clamp though, but new valve came with a hose clamp--worked fine.) Attach wires same way as they cam off old valve. Position and use the two screws to screw assy back into back of washing machine. (The screws had to tap the holes on the valve, so start out a little hard.) Reattach the inlet hoses and check for leaks. I also ran both the hot and cold in a cycle and the reraised the top to check for any leaks internal to the machine. Pus the top back down to engage its fastening clips. Job done. My washing machine is 23 years old.
Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you
Dryer door would not close, part had broke and fallen in. Once part was received it took less than an minute to put the new one in and I was back in business.
thanks for making it easy to find the part needed. and the delivery was fast!
Removed the screw from the side of the lid of the washer. Took off the old Lid Switch Actuator and screwed in the new one. Took a little elbow grease because the old screw was tight but no longer than 15 minutes tops.
I unpluged the machine. Pried out the old switch with the tip of a screw driver. Pried off the connectors, there was not enough extra wire for me to connect the new switch through the front of the machine. I pushed the new switch in place. Using the screw driver I carefully pried open the top front of the machine { there were 2 plastic spring clips securing the top}. I placed a wash bucket on the drum to hold the top open , connected the 2 connectors to the switch and snapped top back in place.
No hot water was making it into the laundry cycle.
First I unplugged the machine, then turned the water supply off in order to disconnect the hoses at the back of the machine. Next I pulled the top up and leaned it back so I could access the water valve at the rear of the machine (You might have to use a screw driver to pry the top off the pins which hold it down in front...). I then unscrewed the the valve and disconnected the wiring and, in order, re-connected to the new valve. Now reverse and turn on the water and yes, the new valve fixed the hot water problem. We can now do the "whites".
the catch on the door was worn and cracked.... so I noticed it could be easily popped out with a screw driver and when the new part came in the mail 2 days later, it was just as easy to pop back in with no tools required. Now the door stays shut really good!!!
lid switch acuator broke and some cycles would not work
unscrew the screw holding the broken part in the lid to remove the old part and tighten the screw to a firm position to hold the new piece in place. Now working fine.
I read some stuff on the internet where folks with the same problem replaced the water inlet valve to repair this same problem. So I did the same. However, after I installed the new water inlet valve, the problem was still there. It was at that point I decided not to guess at the what issue was and instead test the components in the washer. Yes, I am a lazy dumb ass. There are many of us out there. I decided to use a continuity tester to test all components in the hot water fill circuit and determined that the water temperature switch was bad. So I ordered a new switch from Parts Select (they rock - it showed up next day) replaced the water temperature control switch and...walla. fixed!!! Only took about 30 minutes to replace. Lesson learned: Don't be a dumb ass and guess. Test.
then, I used a small prybar to pop open the front top of the waher. It's hinged at the back top edge. I drew a rough sketch of the four color coded connecting wires so I could disconnect the old water inlet valve and replace it the same way with the new one. ( just in case I lost track of which wire went where.)
I cut off the water supply for both the hot and cold water, (you can also cut off the water main,) then diconnected the supply hoses--noting where the hot water was connected, and where the cold water connected. Maytag had cut out a "C" and a "H" our of the back wall of the washer, to assist with hose installation.
I unscrewed the two hex nuts holding the old inlet valve to the back wall of the washer. ( from the outside back of the machine.) and pulled the old inlet valve up to the top of the machine. I didn't remove the basket that holds the laundry, so it was a kind of tight workspace.
Once you reconnect the wires to the new water inlet valve, attach the inlet valve to the washer wall, and reconnect the hoses, it's done. It's pretty simple.