Models > 41729042990

41729042990 Kenmore Washer - Overview

Sections of the 41729042990

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Shock Absorber Kit – Part Number: 5304485917
Shock Absorber Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(22)
PartSelect #: PS3508101
Manufacturer #: 5304485917
This shock absorber kit is an authentic OEM part that is sourced directly from the manufacturer. The kit includes two dual-stage shock absorbers, one spare shock mounting pin, and four locking nuts. T...
$39.67
  In Stock
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Door Catch – Part Number: 131279001
Door Catch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(13)
PartSelect #: PS417389
Manufacturer #: 131279001
This washer door catch is a replacement from the original. This is only available in black.
$24.24
  In Stock
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Drain Pump - 60Hz 120V – Part Number: 137108000
Drain Pump - 60Hz 120V
★★★★★
★★★★★
(14)
PartSelect #: PS2342445
Manufacturer #: 137108000
This pump helps expel water from the washing machine and is activated after the spin speed is maintained for a specific period of time.
$163.31
  In Stock
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Water Inlet Valve – Part Number: 134190200
Water Inlet Valve
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(12)
PartSelect #: PS815509
Manufacturer #: 134190200
The water inlet valve has two ports for water to enter and controls the flow of water into a washing machine. Hot, cold, and warm water can easily enter the washer this way. If the water inlet valve i...
$127.65
  In Stock
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Single Spring with Insulators – Part Number: 134144700
Single Spring with Insulators
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
PartSelect #: PS735645
Manufacturer #: 134144700
This is a single spring with insulator, but you may also know it as a suspension spring. It is a part for your washing machine. If your tub is no longer stable, which would cause shaking, moving, and ...
$47.69
  In Stock
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Drain Hose – Part Number: 131461200
Drain Hose
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(11)
PartSelect #: PS417877
Manufacturer #: 131461200
This drain hose is designed for use in your washer. The function of this part is to carry water from the drain pump to the house drain. If your washer is leaking or will not drain, you may need to rep...
$20.58
  In Stock
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Screw – Part Number: 131302800
Screw
PartSelect #: PS417463
Manufacturer #: 131302800
This is a replacement screw for your washer or dryer. The screw is approximately half an inch in length and is a Phillips-head screw. It screws in from the outside of the drum, into the vane/baffle. T...
$11.21
  In Stock
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SCREW – Part Number: 131168200
SCREW
PartSelect #: PS417085
Manufacturer #: 131168200
Sold individually.
$11.75
  In Stock
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Drive Belt - 6 ribs – Part Number: 134051000
Drive Belt - 6 ribs
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
PartSelect #: PS419285
Manufacturer #: 134051000
This is a drive belt for your washing machine. This part spins the basket in your appliance by connecting the drive motor to the drive system. You will need to replace the drive belt if your pumps are...
$13.31
  In Stock
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Tub-To-Pump Hose – Part Number: 131784700
Tub-To-Pump Hose
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(5)
PartSelect #: PS418742
Manufacturer #: 131784700
$91.01
  In Stock
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Drum Vane – Part Number: 131274600
Drum Vane
PartSelect #: PS417359
Manufacturer #: 131274600
Also known as a Drum Baffle. Sold individually.
$52.75
  In Stock
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Single Shock Mounting Pin – Part Number: 131268300
Single Shock Mounting Pin
PartSelect #: PS417323
Manufacturer #: 131268300
$23.47
  In Stock
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Questions And Answers for 41729042990

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Common Symptoms of the 41729042990

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Leaking
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Will not drain
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Lid or door won’t close
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Will Not Start
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No hot or cold water
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Will not agitate
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Spins slowly
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Shaking and Moving
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Marks left on clothes
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Noisy
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Burning smell
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Not draining
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Door latch failure
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
The door catch broke and the door would not close.
First, I had to remove 2 screws to take off the 2 broken pieces of the door catch. Then I put the new one on using the same 2 screws. The door is now able to close, but does not lock properly. In order to make it work, I put a thin piece of rubber into the place where the door meets the machine. This causes the lock to engage and the machine to work. I don't know how much longer it will work since the repairman claims that the main bearing is going, but hopefully it will last a bit longer.

Part Select got the part to me in one day using the standard shipping, which was impressive. I just wish that I hadn't wasted money on calling a repairman only to have him tell me that he didn't have the part. He charged for the visit anyway even though I told him ahead of time the problem and the model of my machine.
Parts Used:
Door Catch
  • Maryann from Sandy Hook, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
486 of 492 people found this instruction helpful.
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Both vibration shock absorbers broken
removed 2 screws and removed top access cover. removed 2 screws and removed front access cover. removed 4 retaining pins (one with nammer and punch because it was stuck) connected lower ends of new shocks with plastic pins, extended each shock to slip fit and connected upper ends to wash tub mounts. Reinstalled panels. I wish I could say that it all went well from there but......when the shocks broke, apparently the hit the motor took was enough to cause an electronic failure of the speed cycle control chip. Now Im waiting for that part.
Parts Used:
Shock Absorber Kit
  • Douglas from Medical Lake, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
179 of 192 people found this instruction helpful.
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Drum making loud noise
Turned out drum brackets were corroded, so drum and shell-rear/brg and gasket needed replacing

1. Disconnect power and water lines
2. Remove rear and top panels
3. Remove control knobs, Assembly, soap dispenser, and Assembly cons frame/trim
4. Remove all screws from control panel mounting bracket (panel-cont mtg wing bend), disconnect easy wires to get to so you can flip it on it's edge when the time comes - no need to remove completely
5. Disconnect hoses running to shell-rear/brg
6. Remove the motor (motor-Sole) and belt
7. Place foam pad and/or jack with pad on it underneath shell (it's gonna be very heavy when you remove it - two men or a jack required)
8. Lift and remove the two spring/sleeves that support the shell.
9. Remove two level-shocks below shell or at a minimum remove one of the pins on each
10. Remove Spring boot from bellow
11. Lower and remove entire shell
12. Remove the weight, upper back from the rear shell and the counterweights from the front shell (can leave front weights if you want to, but probably easier to work with without them on. Note: be careful, these all crack/chip very easily)
13. Remove the screws that hold the rear shell to the front shell
14. Remove the pulley screw and pulley (may take a little wiggling or tapping with rubber mallet to loosen)
15. Separate the rear shell from front shell.
16. Remove the drum from the rear shell (may also require some wiggkling/tapping with rubber mallet)

Note: I did this from memory, so probably missed some steps - just use your parts manual to ensure you know what you're looking at and it will help you through the process.

Good luck. I figure I saved about $700 to $1200 since the estimated repair costs were so high, I would have simply had to buy a new washer.
Parts Used:
Inner Tub with Spider Arm and Shaft Rear Outer Tub Assembly
  • Scott from Riverview, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
120 of 145 people found this instruction helpful.
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