31423 LG Washer - Instructions

1-Take water off manually. 2- Take machine to back yard. 3- lay machine 45 degrees. 4- Located water bump, (rear left side). 5-removed drain black hoses with hand. 6-removed 3 screws from bump frame. 7-Taker off all unit and marked down cable position at plug. 8- installed new pump. 9- Reverse all steps. Note: I did not use new cable supplied with the new bump, I did not want to mess around on mother board connections, I kept old wire harness which are only two cables blue and gray. It took me less than 30 minutes.

Watch this video on youtube:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ZKgP6hu8Fk very similar

Keep all parts separate and in order in a plastic box with dividers
1. Disconnect washer from wall. (electrical and hot/cold hoses, drain tube)
2. Remove center cap from bottom tub plate
3. Remove small bolt under cap
4. Remove bottom Tub Plate
5. Remover washer
6. Remove larger 38mm nut (I bought the correct deep well socket) Ive seen other video use a pipe wrench)
6a. Remove the large washer under nut
NOTE- I did not remove the tub, total hassle, found it unnecessary, Yes the washer was heavier but nothing that cant be managed.
7. Place a blanket on the floor and lay the washer on its back to access the bottom.
NOTE Everthing is nuts and bolts at this point. 10mm socket worked on all
8. Remove Nut & washer on rotor. Remove rotor-its has a line of magnets and the edges are sharp. Just wiggle it a bit. wear gloves if need be.
9. Remove bolts from Stator, user a small flat blade screw driver to undo 1 or 2 (some) electrical connections. Lay the stator aside. Move the electric connector(s) out of the way.
10. Remove the grounding wire at 6 oclock position
11.Remove the rectangular pack and the 3 oclock position by removing 2 bolts. It has a small arm that reaches out to the clutch arm, slide the piece out to the widest part of hole in clutch arrn an wiggle it loose.
Almost there....
12. Remove all the 10MM headed bolts from the clutsh and drive assemble The inner bolts are a slightly different style, keep the two sets separate.
13. Remove the clutch and drive.

NOTE: if the drive doesnt come out with a slight pull, you have missed a bolt(s)-inspect and remove as need be

14 Wipe clean the pocket in the outer wash tub that accepts the seal on the top of the drive. Lubricate the new drives seal completely with a little dishwasher detergent so it slides smoothly and seals well.

15. Assembly is the reverse:

Last Notes:
*Install all bolts for the clutch and drive hand tight as you get everything lined up.
*Once all bolt are in the clutch and drive are hand tight, tighten the bolts in a cross pattern as you would a wheels lug nuts
*Snug the bolts used to attached the clutch and drive firmly 1/8 to 1/4 turn past snug
*Make sure you clock the stator to the correct position, again hand tighten bolts then final tighten in a cross pattern.
*The nut and washer in the rotor tighten to 1/4 to 1/2 turn past snug, its tight.
*The large 38 MM nut on the top of the drive assembly torque is 88 ft lbs. Have a partner or friend hold the tub while you torque the large nut. If you don't have a torque wrench you can rent one from a number of auto-part chain stores.
*I used a 1/2 Impact gun to remove the 38mm nut, Never use that kind of power to reassemble as it will damage parts.


Good luck, you can do it.

Removed the inner tub laid the washer on its side with a blanket under it and Removed the assembly then the shaft assembly.
Installed the new assembly and re assembled the rest of the washer (top and bottom) and plugged it in. Works great. TIP: you will need a big socket set for the tub retaining nut.

Getting the old part out was not too hard, but had a couple challenges. Watched a video from RepairClininc that detailed the process very thoroughly. Definitely use an impact gun to remove the drum nut inside the drum. My drum was stuck on the shaft pretty good. Would not lift off. Removed the rotator, stator and diverter motor on the bottom, and took out all the bolts securing the clutch. Had to use a hammer to tap the shaft out from inside the drum. Then the clutch dropped out the bottom and I was able to remove the drum. Installation went smooth. Just remember the order you took stuff off and the position of the parts. They need to go on the same or the electrical connectors won't reach.

I had a hard time removing the agitator, had to get thin prybar to get a hold of washplate. After I removed washplate, I found that the shaft that the washplate attaches to was actually worn out. What used to be a spline was smooth. So I ordered a new clutch assembly. There are a lot of bolts that hold the clutch assembly on to the basket. There are a lot of videos on Utube that will walk you through step by step. The only problem I encountered with this was removing the nut that holds the basket to the tub. One video said it was reverse thread, which it wasn’t. You can check the thread on new clutch assembly to see which way is correct. After I put back together. Works like new.

Removed the center cover cap carefully on top of the agitator with a small screw driver. There are 3 (on mine) little slots around the edge of the bottom of the cap where it meets the agitator. Insert the small flat blade screwdriver and gently twist at each one till the cap pops loose and comes off.

There was a 10MM bolt under the cap on mine that you need to remove. I used an cordless impact driver but you could use a socket wrench as well. Remove the bolt and the agitator comes off. May take a little wiggling or it may come right off.

The teeth on the agitator were wore all the way down and gone on mine so it came off easy and this was the issue I had why it was spinning freely. I took the small flat blade screwdriver and used the edge and corner of the blade to clean the teeth on the shaft where the agitator attaches and wiped it down before installing the new part as there was quite a bit of metal shavings from the damaged part.

I just reversed the order of removal to install the new part. Took about 15 min. I ran a rinse and spin cycle to remove any additional metal shavings and to check to see if it all worked properly. THATS IT! TOO EASY!

I can’t really say it was easy and I just did it

After unplugging the washer I cut the water off. I took the water hoses off, then the back top panel using a phillips head screw driver. I then used a pair of pliers to take off the two hoses and clamps. I unplugged the electric connection on each solenoid, took out 5 screws replaced the part and did everything in reverse order. Problem solved. Thanks for the fast service on my order.

raised the front of washer by hand (literally) and placed two 2x4 blocks under front lip for support. reached up inside washer cabinet and unscrewed the broken leg piece upwards into the cabinet. this was the only way I could get the broken piece out without some specialized tool to reach it from the underside. replacement with the new leg was a breeze.

Figured out how to remove the top door and the top panel that covered the solenoid bank. That was the hardest part. Swapping out the solenoid bank and the connector was easy. No more water leaking.

Everthing went to plan except the wet side of the parts removal was difficult. used puller to remove the wash plate and got it to release. But the plastic part of the wash plate released and left the aluminum part still on the coupling. Corrision was the problem, and I had to again use a puller to remove this part of the wash plate. So it wasn't a matter of just lifting the wash plate off by hand. The rest of the replacement was fine.

The teeth in the pulsator assembly where stripped out on the original plate.

Ordered the replacement and it was 1 screw to undo and pop in the new assembly. Super easy repair

Tried everything and could not get it out I just use mesh bags for washing at this time, but LG washing machine is the worst I have ever had

I noticed that my washer was leaking water into the tub. It was dripping, very slowly, but it was dripping. I noticed first, because it was starting to smell, and I didn’t understand why. Once I noticed that it was dripping, I checked online and noticed that the solenoid water inlet is most likely the problem. I found the part on parts, select, and confirmed with my model. The pictures were very close and similar, so I was pretty sure I was getting the cracked part. Once I received the part, it was time to fix it. You just have to turn the water supply off, remove the inlet lines with a adjustable wrench, if necessary, and then get to the washer. Make sure you also unplug the washer. There are only two Phillips head screws to remove to get the vanity cover off of the back. For whatever reason my removal was a little bit difficult for this. There are some plastic clips that hold the front portion on of the vanity plate. These were very tight, and I was afraid I would break them, but eventually they came loose with gentle upward pulling. Once this was off, it was super easy to identify the part that needed replacement. There are two hose clamps that you just need a pair of pliers to squeeze in slide off the hose. Then you remove three additional Phillips head screws, and the other connections pop out on their own. The solenoid plugs are very simple to slide off, and it is really difficult to put them on any other way. If you need to, you can take a few photos of the installation. Once you have the old one out, hook up the hoses first, and slide the hose clamps back to their original position. Once you have the two black hoses back on, reposition the new valve body, and slide the additional three prongs into the inlet soap dispenser. Make sure that the fit is snug. Don’t over push, the parts are plastic. Once this is done, reinsert, the three Phillips screws into their holes. Then you can reconnect the solenoids. At this point the replacement is done, and all you have to do is replace the vanity cover. Take time to ensure that you’ve done this correctly. I left the vanity cover off and ran a test load of dirty clothes to make sure that there were no leaks. Once I assure, there were no leaks, I put the vanity cover back on and put the two screws on. This was a very easy fix. Again, just go slow removing the vanity plate so you do not crack or break the tines in the front.

Former LG repair looked under washer while it was engaging & noticed motor was not spinning. LG took forever I ordered the part from you guys. It looked different from original. Figured out to take extra port for front loader. I have top loader. Installed washer works great!!