272 - Instructions

Clean engine with a Gunk type product. Remove valve cover. Loosen bolts and remove old cylinder head. One bolt is located inside valve cover area. Remove old gasket and inspect and clean that surface. Attach new head with new gasket using existing bolts. Torque to 18'#s with a cross type pattern. Attach new rocker arms and push rods. Set valve clearance to .004 - .006. Attach valve cover with gasket. Check oil level. Start and let it warm up. Let cool remove cover then check valve clearance again. Replace cover.

Removed old clip removed rim from tractor, removed grease fitting on rim, took hammer and screw driver knocked out old bushing turned rim over knocked out other bushing. Press in new bushings reinstalled grease fitting slide tire back on tractor, put retaining washers on then locking clip put on dust cover grease at grease fitting. Repeat other side.

I removed the fan shroud, the carb/manifold as an assembly,turned the carb upside down and removed the fuel bowl. I replaced only one jet. Not until this moment did I discover their were two jets in this nikki carb. I now have a second jet ordered and will install it Friday,hopefully. These jets are two different part numbers as one is a left jet and the other is a right one. Be careful when opening the fuel bowl as these jets are held in their bores by small O-rings, and nothing else. The brigg's and Stratton part numbers are 791501 for the left jet and 791502 for the right.

Reverse of how i took broken exhuast value out.
It was simple just watch what you do. Also make sure you lash the value. U tube it.

Look on YouTube for video's on how to replace a Briggs governor. There are several there. My favorite, with best explanation, is, "Easily Replace Briggs Governor Gear (V-Twin Intek Engine) with Taryl". https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wn3eanGxSEA&t=152s.

Taryl (probably not his real name) does a very good job of showing step-by-step the whole procedure, along with some additional hints/tricks/techniques of value.

Not including oil and filter, I spent less than $50 for a new governor, gasket, and drive shaft seal. That's all that is really necessary to replace is those three parts. That is, unless pieces of the old governor tore up a gear, valve, or something else. Inspect everything! {I was lucky and only the governor was destroyed}

One word of note. Be sure to clean out all of the debris from the blown governor. Be sure to remove the spark plugs and carefully rotate the drive shaft while looking for nooks-and-crannies where debris can hide. I tried to use a magnet to help, but it didn't help much, even though the block is aluminum.

Good luck.

Removed tank and drained old gas.
Removed and disassembled carb. Needed new gaskets and seals, and had to clean corn syrup glaze (separated ethanol) from bowl and everywhere else with carb cleaner.
Throttle linkage was de-plating/rusty. Steel wool and WD40 got it moving again.
Cleaned spark plug electrode.
Reassembled, poured Sea Foam in the bottom of the tank and gave it a few pulls.
Let Sea Foam sit for a while, then filled the tank with Premium.
Blew white smoke for a minute then ran like new. Shredded for a while, then changed the oil.

Removed wheel (used strong magnet to catch the keeper)
Removed axle assembly from its mounting tube
(used strong magnet again to prevent keeper lose)
Installed replacement axle (again with the magnet)
Lubricated with 90 SAE
Re-installed the wheel (used magnet again to hold the keeper.
Mowed the lawn.

Removed original shield ( 2 bolts), replaced with new shield.

Disassemble dryer. Replaced element assembly. Re assembled dryer. Unit runs and heats.

Parked mower on level concrete drive, laid on cardboard. Lowered mower deck all the way. Sparayed some WD40 on nut/bolt on top of old pulley. Since it is a carriage type bolt, placed 5/8" boxed end wrench over self locking nut on top of old pulley. Using some force from 3lb mallet to break nut free (hitting against wrench body), the nut came off easy as did broken pulley/bearing inside. Installed new pulley assembly, re-tightened nut on bolt. Checked after first mowing just to be certain pulley was in place and locking nut tight.

Removed old broken rewind starter (4 bolts); found the Model and Serial numbers; found Parts Direct and ordered new assembly; upon delivery, reinstalled with new Starter and hardware.

Shimmed the wheels out on axle.. No more slop.