This was the second part I tried. The defrost timer was first, but that did not fix it. To do this I had to remove the ice maker and the back plate of the freezer. Then I defrosted the coil and cut the wires. stripped them back and installed the new thermostat. re-assembled and tested. has been working great ever since.
Refrigerator would not run but interior light was on.
I unplugged the refrigerator, then opened the door and removed four screws holding the plastic electrical panel to the interior top of the main refrigerator compartment and noticed the cold control was corroded badly, apparently from moisture in the panel. I ordered a new one from partselect.com. When it arrived the next day, I then pulled off the control knob, unclipped the cold control, unplugged the three wires to the control, then removed the styrofoam insulation blocks holding the thermocouple wire and then removed the thermocouple wire to complete the removal. I then reversed the process to install the new thermostat and control. That is repositioned the thermocouple wire, put the insulation blocks back to hold the wire, then replugged the three electrical wires, clipped the control back and pushed the control knob back on and finally screwed the panel back to the top of the main compartment and plugged the refrigerator electrical cord back in to provide current to the refrigerator. It immediately started up and ran fine. Total time - about 8 minutes.
- Unsnapped old light socket from top of Frig - Disconnected elect wires - Reconnected elect wires to new light socket - Snapped new socket in place - Done in less than 2 min.
Refrigerator was trying to cycle compressor on, but each time the compressor started, it would stop due to the thermo breaker would open. The fans continued to run, so I figured it was starter relay.
Moved the refrig. out, removed the four screws that held the lower access panel in place. Disconnected the power cord. Removed the retainer clip wire and pulled the relays from the compressor socket. Separated the relays and installed the secondary relay on the new starter relay. Reinstalled the starter relay assembly into the compressor socket. Plugged the power cord in and listened for the compressor to cycle on. It cycled on and continued to run. Turned the power off and reinstalled the retainer clip wire. Reinstalled the access panel and plugged the power back in and left the refrig. run overnight. Checked temperature and also started the ice maker. Everything was normal by morning.
After earlier determing that the starter switch was at fault, I removed the cardboard lower back panel, shut off water to the ice maker, removed water line. The plug to the compressor containing the switch and capacitor was held on by a spring clip, removed clip pulled wires from old switch (Here needle nose pliars are handy as the spade clips on the 2 wires have their own locking clips) replaced switch and all wiring, tested unit and problem solved.
This was a simple job. Raised the flap in the back that houses the compressor, removed the wire that holds the relay, pulled out the old relay and pushed the new one on. Replaced wire holder and that was it. Plugged it frig and freezer is at zero and lower compartment at 35. As easy as brushing your teeth!
I located the part that was the culprit as it had buzzed very much before quitting. This is an easy removal as the part is in a two prong jack and just needs to be carefully removed with the new part inserted back in the jack provided. The refrigerator works fine now, but the run capacitor will still buzz on start up of the compressor. I do hope this is normal in this model? anyway it runs fine mow. Thank you.
Freezer Freezing up and blocking the vent for refrigerator, not cooling the fridge.
Went pretty straight forward, except the heat shrink tubing was about 2 sizes too big. Would not shrink small enough to seal the connections. Even with a heat gun it would not shrink small enough. OH, another think is when I plugged the fridge back in the defrost timer was in defrost mode. Took me a few minutes to figure that out and use a screwdriver to turn the timer back to the on position. Other than that, install was pretty simple.
The site offers a video for this part which worked perfectly. In addition to replacing the part, since the cardboard panel was off, we also cleaned all the dust off of the coils which someone recommended to do annually.
Unscrewed the lower back cardboard panel and removed it. Unplugged refrigerator. Reached in and took the metal piece off that keeps the starter from coming off. Pulled the starter off the compressor. Unplugged the starter from the power line. Replaced starter. Hooked power line back on. Hooked starter to the compressor. Put the metal piece back on to hold in place. Plugged refrigerator back in. Put back panel back on.
With the help of your parts breakdown, illustration and videos it was real easy to replace motor. Must take care with plastic cover Thank you Larry Bisson
The part i recieved, from parts select was a larger in circumfrence (<1/4) than the original. However i was not aware of this until after i treid to repair it.
I removed the broken fan from the condenser. This was very sipmle.
When i pluged the refridgerator back in to the outlet the fan tried to start up but soon began to make aloud noise, due to there not being enough clerance.