2490 - Instructions

Very easy. Pull out refrig from wall to access the rear, turn off ice water line and Unplug refrig from wall outlet. Take socket and unscrew the one (1) tap holding the unit.
Remove the electric conections, pulling out from unit (there is nothing holding it in place but friction).
Remove the main water tube (have papber towel for water drip, there will be some)
Remove the two water tubes on top of unit (noting which tube goes to which relay)
Reconnect electric connectors to the new unit, reonnect water tubes to the new unit, screw down the new unit.
Turn water on and plug refrig back into AC outlet.
That's it, 20-30 min.

The Model number could no longer be read clearly on the stove electric grill with a down draft vent system, so all I had was the size and looks of the old grease/air filter. I was very happy to come across Parts Select by way of an amazon.com search. Their web site's design and the parts pictures with detailed descriptions made it easy to find exactly what I needed. The grease filter fit perfectly in no time. I have successfully used my cooking grill again.

Removed the rubber gasket and checked the switch. The switch displayed signs of scorching and the plastic was very brittle. Removed the switch which was held in by a small bracket and one screw. Replaced switch on bracket and remounted the switch. It took longer to reinstall the rubber gasket that to diagnoise and repair the switch. This was a very easy repair and the time from the part order to receiving it was two days. I'm very pleased with the part availability and quick shipping.

Simply pulled the old ones off and pressed on the new control knobs. It took less than 10 minutes, saved us from replazcing an otherwise nice looking range top, and made a big deposit in my "Honey do" account. I just wish they still sold the clock and timer units to fit this stove. Oh and yes, the prices were very reasonable too. Thank You Brad Harris, Illinois

The lids are fastened to the underside of the unit by rivets....3 to each lid.
I used a cordless drill and small drill bit to drill through the rivets to remove the old lids and remains of the rivets.
The new lids are easily fastened back using a rivet gun ( about $20 in Lowes) using small 1/8th aluminum rivets.
No real problems.
1 thing to note is that the drill bit will pass through the old rivet by about 1/4 inch before it comes up against the upper level of the BBQ floor so do not drill any deeper.The aluminum rivets are easy to drill through and you will easily feel when the rivet is drilled through.

Important: Down load the helpful assembly diagram for the fan motor and study it for a few minutes. It's very straight forward. Also a good idea is to remove the bottom panel which comes off easy before starting.

My only problem was removing the existing blower/fan wheel without damaging it once I had the assembly on the work bench. It was rusted on tight and managed to remove after a few tries using penetrating oil. The wheel is in stock and I'd suggest buying a new one along with the new motor if I had to do the job again.

Bottom line; the fan motor fit perfect but did have to re-use part of the old existing electric pig tail because the motor does not come with the factory type motor terminal connectors. By using three twist on wire connectors was back in business. The down draft vent works like new.

Wife is happy...

Wade

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

No tool required! Pulled out tray, emptied ice into large bowl for reuse. Pushed in and pulled from inside the coil springed auger until could get old plastic ring off and put new one on. Useing care not to apply too much pressure to ice dispensing end so as not to break housing. Have to turn auger assembly at an angle to compress enough and get old ring off. Needs a little physical strenth & care not to force plastic housing to breaking point. Worked great reused saved ice. Took less than 10 minutes

blower wheel was caked with dried grease clumps; replaced blower wheel, urethan foam and 3 motor isolators; blower/fan no longer vibrating cooktop.

removed two screws thenpulled element up unpluged wires

I unboxed the new drawers, measured and cut some 1/8 plexiglass strips to fit. I then glued the strips on the inside of both drawers to strenghten. The original and replacement drawers lack strength at the corners and crack. This was the third set I have replaced. Should not happen again.

Turned off power at breaker. Removed screws holding control knobs in position. Removed knob and unscrewed nut holding switch in place. Noted wire positions and undid connections. Connected wires to new unit. Replaced nut and screws and control knob. Restored power and checked operation. You can do this. Don't call an electrician.

I TURNED OFF THE POWER TO THE GRILL FIRST. Then Removed the knob on the top face plate and then removed the 2 self tapping screws at the high end and this allowed the face plate to be pushed forward. And allowed access to remove the switch I removed the wires one at a time and replaced them on the new switch. All done in 20 minutes.

Our 20+ year old Maytag refrigerator suddenly started dispensing water one day without anyone near the refrigerator. Thankfully, my wife was nearby; my son temporarily solved the problem by shutting off water to the house. The ice dispenser unit has a "Lock" switch which turns off power to the ice & water dispenser. With the switch in the "lock" position, we were able to continue using the refrigerator (and turn the water back on) until I was able to get a replacement part.

The biggest hurdle that I encountered was removing the trim; I spent perhaps an hour and a half trying to figure it out. In the end it turned out to be easy and would have been perhaps half an hour job total had I known the trick. So... to remove the trim on a Maytag RSW2400, you remove a single Phillips head screw on the bottom of the trim. The trim then slides to the left and can be removed.

The next mistake I made was removing the entire dispenser unit. Instead, if you look closely, there are screws which may be used to disassemble part of it, leaving the ice/water dispenser housing mounted to the refrigerator door. This provides access to the ice/water actuator switch. Perform this disassembly and access to the switch becomes obvious.

The switch is held in place with a single Phillips screw. Make sure that you've disconnected the power to the fridge well before this point because, AFAICT, 120VAC flows through this switch! The switch that I replaced didn't appear to be in bad shape and, once removed, the switch seemed to work correctly when I tested it with an ohmmeter. I replaced it anyway.

Reassembly was straightforward and easy. Better still, ice and water are now dispensed correctly again.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.