2242A - Instructions

First I removed the old bowls and replaced them with the new.

took old bowls out, put new bowls in, took a coffee break

Replaced old drip pans with new ones - very easy - even a 68 yr old lady can do it!!

we removed the old pans after first removing the electric heating element and simply inserted tne new pans

Removed old clip removed rim from tractor, removed grease fitting on rim, took hammer and screw driver knocked out old bushing turned rim over knocked out other bushing. Press in new bushings reinstalled grease fitting slide tire back on tractor, put retaining washers on then locking clip put on dust cover grease at grease fitting. Repeat other side.

- Made the mower safe to work on the blades (remove spark plug wires, etc.)

- Raised the mower to get access to the blades, wedged a wood block against the blade.

- Used impact driver with socket to remove bolt holding blade.

- Removed blade, replaced with new, replaced bolt and tightened with impact driver, ..... and you know the rest.

replaced drip pans with correct type

My elements just plug in so all I had to do was pull them out and replace the drip bowls. They fit perfectly!

Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.

This wasn't a "repair", but I got an email asking for my story, so here it is. :-)

I followed the owner's manual instructions by pulling out the burner elements, lifting up the old drip bowls, setting in the new ones, replacing the elements.

This is the second use of Parts Select. First time was for another obscure part for an old microwave, which also worked out VERY well. Both appliances still in action.

Well, when you put the back cover on and screw it down make sure you have nothing touching the white wire leading to the oven light. I did and it blew the push switch when I threw the 220 breaker. Actually, the light was on when I came in the room, but when I pushed the switch on the front panel it sparked in the rear and popped the breaker. Then I saw the short and when I tested the switch it would not click. The install was fine.

Lifted range top, disconnected and labled wires from old switch, removed old switch, replaced wires on new switch, installed new switch.
NOTE: Local appliance store informed me that the electric cooktop was too old and that a replacement switch was not available and wanted to sell me a new cooktop for $795!
I found the switch on PartSelect and repaired the cooktop. Total cost... UNDER THIRTY DOLLARS!!

Turned power completely off. Removed knob from front panel. Opened range top cover. Removed 3 screws from aluminum panel protector behind the element switch. Once panel is removed you can see the switch element. Remove 2 screws from the front panel that connects to the element switch. Remove the old element and replace with new element making sure that each of the 5 wires on the old element is transferred one by one to the new element. Reverse the process in putting it all together. Turn on the power and walla you've have a new stove. You just save $600 plus.

I found the received switch (PS12070192) a poor replacement for the original, or even the earlier replaced part (PS11744446, in 2016) I was going to replace since the press/return feature seemed slow to return.

The male spade lugs on the received switch are so positioned that engagement is only possible if the lug is bent out at a large angle. The lug set-back from the body edge, and the raised ribs on the sides still prevent full engagement of the connections.

I did install the new switch but found that was the only switch that didn’t give a signal light when turned on.

I have reinstalled the earlier unit.

Is part# PS 11744446 no longer available?



James E Weimholt. jmwm4031@verizon.net