10632243101 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Installed ice machine components using kit and included instructions. Easy! Ran a copper line from under sink valve to back of refrigerator under the floor. Drilled two holes to run copper line. Plumber turned water off and replaced single valve with a double valve (one line to faucet and the other for the copper line). Installed shut off valve and filter at the other end of copper line. Then stainless hose to refrigerator. Everything went smooth. Double check the factory installed plastic line from the electric valve to the inlet for your freezer. Mine was barely inserted and leaked. I pushed it in all the way and it is fine now... Ice maker works really well! Wish I had done this sooner!

Don not completely remove holding icemaker screws. Unit slips over screws and drops down into place and the use nutdriver to tighten in place. Rest of unit was sound and wasn’t replaced.
After icemaker is installed wait for a while and unit self activated and creates ice cubes.

I watched the video that was included with my on line order, it was helpful, although different model shown . I would say it was not difficult to install, the enclosed instructions were a bit confusing.

shook bottle and painted waited a day and repeated

empty top shelf in refrigerator, remove glass shelf. Wash and dry. Turn shelf over and line up notches and snap in place. Cost of guide plus 7.99 shipment fee and local ta was $18. Local dealer wanted $24 to order same part. Easy do-it-yourself project.

Ice maker fit perfectly over 2 top screws. I tightened them and put the one on the bottom. I was done in less than 10minutes. Everything fit perfectly as expected. Couldn't have been eaiser. Parts Select is my go to online store.

Removal of the door gasket went quite fast. First i needed a 8mm wrench. That what I didn't have. Got the socket set, not the wrench. Tried adjustable wrench, went slow. I slowly got the bolts out. Putting the gasket on was slow. Then I get to the last corner, was awful for me. I finally get it on. Putting the freezer door back on 1st went crazy. I finally looked on top of refrigerator, saw (3) bolts, removed them, installment went easy from there.

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

I attached the hinge and secured it with screws and socket wrench.

I pulled the socket out and unplugged the wires. I replaced the light socket by plugging in the wires and snapping the light socket into place. A very simple fix.

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

Work just perfect