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General Electric Range Switches
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Popular General Electric Range Switches
This infinite control switch regulates the power delivered to a surface heating element, allowing precise temperature control during cooking. It functions by cycling power on and off based on user input from the control knob, enabling smooth transitions between low and high heat settings. A malfunctioning switch may result in inconsistent heating, overheating, or a burner that fails to activate. Replacement restores proper burner performance and ensures safe, reliable operation. Always disconnect power or shut off the circuit breaker before installation to prevent electrical hazards.
This infinite control switch regulates the power delivered to a surface heating element, allowing precise temperature control during cooking. It functions by cycling power on and off based on user input from the control knob, enabling smooth transitions between low and high heat settings. A malfunctioning switch may result in inconsistent heating, overheating, or a burner that fails to activate. Replacement restores proper burner performance and ensures safe, reliable operation. Always disconnect power or shut off the circuit breaker before installation to prevent electrical hazards.
Installation Instructions
daniel from ANN ARBOR, MI
The double burner would not regulate, stuck on high
Unplug range, pull out to access back panel. Remove enough screws to access the burner switch. Remove knob, 2 screws hold the switch, remove them. You can now pull the switch out the back. It had 2 electrical plugs remove them. Install on new switch and put back together. The switch I got was exact replacement, thanks partselect
$44.21
In Stock
The 8-inch surface element switch is also known as an infinite heat switch, and is a part for your range. It controls the large surface element. It will turn the element on and off, and allow you to change the heat intensity. The knob to adjust the heat setting mounts on the shaft of this swtich. The burner knob is sold separately. If your large surface element will not turn on, or you cannot adjust the heat intensity, you may have a broken or damaged surface burner switch. Be sure you disconnect your range from the power source before you begin this repair.
The 8-inch surface element switch is also known as an infinite heat switch, and is a part for your range. It controls the large surface element. It will turn the element on and off, and allow you to change the heat intensity. The knob to adjust the heat setting mounts on the shaft of this swtich. The burner knob is sold separately. If your large surface element will not turn on, or you cannot adjust the heat intensity, you may have a broken or damaged surface burner switch. Be sure you disconnect your range from the power source before you begin this repair.
Installation Instructions
Marc from Columbia, NJ
The switches failed on both front burners.
Remove nobs from both switches.
Pull out the range (the hardest part).
REMOVE THE POWER PLUG FROM THE WALL
Remove 7 screws with nut driver and take off upper back panel.
Remove 2 phillips screws from front, they hold the switch brackets.
The new switches don't fit in the bracket so discard the bracket keeping the ... Read more screws.
Removing 1 wire at a time from the old switch transfer to the new noting the letter/number ie "H1 P1" combos they are all there just not in the same places on the new switch.
When wiring is complete, using the bracket ,screws from the front screw on the switches.
Replace the back panel with 7 screws.
In my case the old nobs did not fit the shafts of the new switches. I found some at the local hardware store. I bought 4 for $0.29 each! I expect to be replacing the other burner switches shortly.
Pull out the range (the hardest part).
REMOVE THE POWER PLUG FROM THE WALL
Remove 7 screws with nut driver and take off upper back panel.
Remove 2 phillips screws from front, they hold the switch brackets.
The new switches don't fit in the bracket so discard the bracket keeping the ... Read more screws.
Removing 1 wire at a time from the old switch transfer to the new noting the letter/number ie "H1 P1" combos they are all there just not in the same places on the new switch.
When wiring is complete, using the bracket ,screws from the front screw on the switches.
Replace the back panel with 7 screws.
In my case the old nobs did not fit the shafts of the new switches. I found some at the local hardware store. I bought 4 for $0.29 each! I expect to be replacing the other burner switches shortly.
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The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the switch. The switch is spring loaded and is a generally closed type of switch meaning there should be no continuity when the button is depressed, and continuity through the switch when the button is not depressed. This plastic, white, OEM switch is sourced directly from the manufacturer, is sold individually and is easy to replace. The repair usually takes less than 15 minutes and requires a flat blade screwdriver and needle nose pliers.
The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the switch. The switch is spring loaded and is a generally closed type of switch meaning there should be no continuity when the button is depressed, and continuity through the switch when the button is not depressed. This plastic, white, OEM switch is sourced directly from the manufacturer, is sold individually and is easy to replace. The repair usually takes less than 15 minutes and requires a flat blade screwdriver and needle nose pliers.
Installation Instructions
Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
Sticking Light Switch
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the c
... Read more
atch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
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$52.95
In Stock
This surface element control switch, also known as an infinite switch, regulates the power supplied to a 6-inch, 1560-watt heating element on electric ranges. It allows for precise adjustment of heat levels by cycling the element on and off, rather than relying on fixed temperature settings. Operating at 240 volts and drawing between 4.4 to 7.4 amps, the switch ensures consistent and responsive heat control. Replacing a faulty switch can resolve issues such as the element not heating, staying stuck on high, or fluctuating in temperature. This component is essential for maintaining safe and efficient cooking performance.
This surface element control switch, also known as an infinite switch, regulates the power supplied to a 6-inch, 1560-watt heating element on electric ranges. It allows for precise adjustment of heat levels by cycling the element on and off, rather than relying on fixed temperature settings. Operating at 240 volts and drawing between 4.4 to 7.4 amps, the switch ensures consistent and responsive heat control. Replacing a faulty switch can resolve issues such as the element not heating, staying stuck on high, or fluctuating in temperature. This component is essential for maintaining safe and efficient cooking performance.
Installation Instructions
Marc from Columbia, NJ
The switches failed on both front burners.
Remove nobs from both switches.
Pull out the range (the hardest part).
REMOVE THE POWER PLUG FROM THE WALL
Remove 7 screws with nut driver and take off upper back panel.
Remove 2 phillips screws from front, they hold the switch brackets.
The new switches don't fit in the bracket so discard the bracket keeping the ... Read more screws.
Removing 1 wire at a time from the old switch transfer to the new noting the letter/number ie "H1 P1" combos they are all there just not in the same places on the new switch.
When wiring is complete, using the bracket ,screws from the front screw on the switches.
Replace the back panel with 7 screws.
In my case the old nobs did not fit the shafts of the new switches. I found some at the local hardware store. I bought 4 for $0.29 each! I expect to be replacing the other burner switches shortly.
Pull out the range (the hardest part).
REMOVE THE POWER PLUG FROM THE WALL
Remove 7 screws with nut driver and take off upper back panel.
Remove 2 phillips screws from front, they hold the switch brackets.
The new switches don't fit in the bracket so discard the bracket keeping the ... Read more screws.
Removing 1 wire at a time from the old switch transfer to the new noting the letter/number ie "H1 P1" combos they are all there just not in the same places on the new switch.
When wiring is complete, using the bracket ,screws from the front screw on the switches.
Replace the back panel with 7 screws.
In my case the old nobs did not fit the shafts of the new switches. I found some at the local hardware store. I bought 4 for $0.29 each! I expect to be replacing the other burner switches shortly.
Read less
The secondary door switch is a simple on/off mechanism that stops the microwave from operating when the door is open (normally opened). The switch monitors the door latch position, and communicates whether the door is open or closed to the electrical control board. This door switch is approximately 1 inch long, and has 2 metal prongs called terminals that extend out of its body. Common symptoms related to a faulty secondary door switch include: microwave will not turn/shut off, or the microwave will not heat properly.
NOTE: Before you begin this repair, first make sure your microwave is unplugged, and that your capacitor is discharged. A capacitor stores large amounts of electricity even when your microwave is unplugged.
The secondary door switch is a simple on/off mechanism that stops the microwave from operating when the door is open (normally opened). The switch monitors the door latch position, and communicates whether the door is open or closed to the electrical control board. This door switch is approximately 1 inch long, and has 2 metal prongs called terminals that extend out of its body. Common symptoms related to a faulty secondary door switch include: microwave will not turn/shut off, or the microwave will not heat properly.
NOTE: Before you begin this repair, first make sure your microwave is unplugged, and that your capacitor is discharged. A capacitor stores large amounts of electricity even when your microwave is unplugged.
Installation Instructions
Marla from Arlington, TX
light worked, timer and control pad worked, but no turntable, no heat, no noises of any sort, just didn't start up
Noted on partselect.com that someone else with this problem, found it to be secondary door switch. There are three door switches in this model, but online info noted that one of the three might feel "soft" (in my case, one switch clicked in a rather "jiggly" way, the other two were strong decisive clicks.) To access the door switches on
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this model was the only difficult part. First use a torx bit to remove the two torx screws below the latches inside the microwave. This frees the latching part inside, that holds the door switches, which you will remove after you take off the control panel. The top grill has to come off before you can remove the door panel. Remove the screws above the grill, on the microwave top cover, The grill on this model is covered with a panel that moves out when it vents. After removing the two top screws, the covered grill vent slides left to remove. Be careful, as the sliding tabs are plastic. Wiggle and jiggle it, to slip it off. Below the removed grill, is a small metal grill with one screw in lower center. Remove that screw, and wiggle that out. You'll then see the one screw that holds on the control panel. Remove this screw, and lift the control panel up to remove. Again, go slowly and gently, as the bottom tabs holding the control panel in, are also plastic and easily broken. Lay the control panel on something, (I used the coffee maker) and pull out the wire bundles tucked on the left, that are attached to the latching panel. Wiggle the latching panel gently to lift it up off of it's plastic tabs and pull it out towards you, so you can see the three door switches. Each switch (part number WB24X829) has a little black switch on it. Feel each switch with either your finger, or a screwdriver to see which one doesn't "click" strongly. The weak one is the one you will replace. The door switches are fitted into a tab, and plugged into their wires. Remove the defective switch, pull out the wires, and replace it with the new switch, plugging back the wires, and slipping it back into it's plastic tabs. Then put everything back together in reverse order. The entire job took me fifteen minutes EXCEPT for figuring out how to slide off the upper grill, which I have told you. A repairman would have cost $150, the part was $18. AND, there's a good chance, the other two switches will get "used up" in the next year or so as well, so I'll be ready next time. Thank you, Partselect, why work all day, to make money, only to give it to somebody else, for fifteen minutes of work. All I needed was the knowledge.
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MAKE THIS REPAIR A GUARANTEED WIN
OVER 2 MILLION PARTS TO ENSURE VICTORY
Unplug your microwave before attempting this repair. You will need to remove the grill, which is held into place by two screws at the top of the grill (open your microwave door before doing this). Remove the grill. Remove the screw on the left holding the control panel in place. Loosen the screw behind the panel. You should now be able to lift the panel up and pull forward to detach. You will find the door switch by removing the screws to detach the switch assembly. Press on the release tab to remove the middle switch. Disconnect the wire connector to release the old switch. The door switch is normally closed.
Unplug your microwave before attempting this repair. You will need to remove the grill, which is held into place by two screws at the top of the grill (open your microwave door before doing this). Remove the grill. Remove the screw on the left holding the control panel in place. Loosen the screw behind the panel. You should now be able to lift the panel up and pull forward to detach. You will find the door switch by removing the screws to detach the switch assembly. Press on the release tab to remove the middle switch. Disconnect the wire connector to release the old switch. The door switch is normally closed.
Installation Instructions
George from Sugar Land, TX
GE Microwave turns on when door is opened
I saw a similar problem description at partselect.com and was confident to take the challenge to repair it myself. (Thanks to partselect.com). When I opened the microwave cover I found 3 similar switches. 2 of them works the same way and the other in reverse direction. Image diagram provided to buy parts is helpful to identify the switch.
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Steps:
Remove the built-in microwave from the wall and keep it in an open space.
Remove the microwave screws and take the cover out.
Remove the 2 screws(inside) from the plastic panel where switches are snapped in
Gently remove the faulty switch and replace with the new one.
(In my case the topmost secondary door switch was broken)
Steps:
Remove the built-in microwave from the wall and keep it in an open space.
Remove the microwave screws and take the cover out.
Remove the 2 screws(inside) from the plastic panel where switches are snapped in
Gently remove the faulty switch and replace with the new one.
(In my case the topmost secondary door switch was broken)
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This part is the replacement surface burner switch or element control switch for your range or cooktop. The burner switch turns the surface element on and off and controls the amount of heat the element produces. If you are unable to start your heating element, or if the temperature is unpredictable, you may have a damaged surface burner switch. Be sure to disconnect your range from the power source or shut off the circuit breaker before repairing this part. It is sold individually and is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
This part is the replacement surface burner switch or element control switch for your range or cooktop. The burner switch turns the surface element on and off and controls the amount of heat the element produces. If you are unable to start your heating element, or if the temperature is unpredictable, you may have a damaged surface burner switch. Be sure to disconnect your range from the power source or shut off the circuit breaker before repairing this part. It is sold individually and is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Installation Instructions
Robert from Henrico, VA
surface element control contacts welded shut
First step is to unplug the range. Then simple to remove top portion of two part back panel behind controls console, then remove knob and two screws for control, then use needle nose to transfer push-on connectors from old control to new control one at a time, finish re-assembly in reverse order.
The infinite switch controls the stove top surface burner. This switch will work with most of the electrical range models with coil burner elements.
The infinite switch controls the stove top surface burner. This switch will work with most of the electrical range models with coil burner elements.
Installation Instructions
Scott from Olathe, KS
Front burner would not heat up
1. Pull out range and unplug from socket.
2. Lift range lid.
3. Remove back panel. Loosen the 6 - 1/4" nuts, then lift up slightly, which compresses the "latch" at the top middle. Let down and panel comes off easily.
(Note: Do not remove wires yet)
4. Remove control knob from front panel by pulling gently, exposing ... Read more 2 small tap screws
5. unscrew the 2 small tap screws, freeing the switch.
6. NOTE THE EXISTING WIRING! Each terminal has a letter. Take a photo or drawing for reference, because the new switch's post locations were not the same as the old.
7. In my case I had to replace the terminal block kit with a new one. (don't try the aftermarket one's at Home Depot...bad idea event though they say Hotpoint) so I ran those wires first. Easy removal of old, only one wire clip, then fish the wires through. Secure with tap screw at burner location.
8. Hook up the wires. The ones coming from the burner don't seem to matter which one goes to which post but make sure you're replacing them on the posts that the original were on. What I did was just unhook the old posts one at a time and find the corresponding letter on the new one.
9. Break off stem at length of old switch with pliers. make sure you find where off and on are on the switch. Orient the off at the top, then push through from back of range.
10. Screw the 2 tap screws in, securing the switch.
11. Place the orange retainer oriented with flat side the same as the knob, and push the knob back in place.
12. Close lid, replace back panel
13. Insert drip pan/burner into terminal block and secure in drip pan. If your burner plugs are corroded or exposed, replace the burner as it will short out.
14. Plug in to socket and test before pushing range back into place.
2. Lift range lid.
3. Remove back panel. Loosen the 6 - 1/4" nuts, then lift up slightly, which compresses the "latch" at the top middle. Let down and panel comes off easily.
(Note: Do not remove wires yet)
4. Remove control knob from front panel by pulling gently, exposing ... Read more 2 small tap screws
5. unscrew the 2 small tap screws, freeing the switch.
6. NOTE THE EXISTING WIRING! Each terminal has a letter. Take a photo or drawing for reference, because the new switch's post locations were not the same as the old.
7. In my case I had to replace the terminal block kit with a new one. (don't try the aftermarket one's at Home Depot...bad idea event though they say Hotpoint) so I ran those wires first. Easy removal of old, only one wire clip, then fish the wires through. Secure with tap screw at burner location.
8. Hook up the wires. The ones coming from the burner don't seem to matter which one goes to which post but make sure you're replacing them on the posts that the original were on. What I did was just unhook the old posts one at a time and find the corresponding letter on the new one.
9. Break off stem at length of old switch with pliers. make sure you find where off and on are on the switch. Orient the off at the top, then push through from back of range.
10. Screw the 2 tap screws in, securing the switch.
11. Place the orange retainer oriented with flat side the same as the knob, and push the knob back in place.
12. Close lid, replace back panel
13. Insert drip pan/burner into terminal block and secure in drip pan. If your burner plugs are corroded or exposed, replace the burner as it will short out.
14. Plug in to socket and test before pushing range back into place.
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This switch controls the stove top surface burner.
This switch controls the stove top surface burner.
Installation Instructions
Kristosser from Sparks, NV
Knob broke off of the front of GE Cafe electric range
Slide range out. Remove screws holding back vent in place. Remove back vent. Remove screws under front panel and knobs. Lift glass cooktop. Remove screws holding switch in place (behind knob) unplug each wire from switch and immediately replace in same spots on new switch. Replace everything.
Control your cooktop’s heat with this genuine infinite surface element switch, designed to regulate power to individual burners for precise temperature adjustment. Operating at 1250W and 240V, it allows smooth transitions from low to high heat for consistent cooking results. This durable OEM component helps resolve issues such as burners not heating, overheating, or delivering uneven heat. Installation is simple—disconnect power, remove the faulty switch, and secure the new one in place for reliable performance.
Control your cooktop’s heat with this genuine infinite surface element switch, designed to regulate power to individual burners for precise temperature adjustment. Operating at 1250W and 240V, it allows smooth transitions from low to high heat for consistent cooking results. This durable OEM component helps resolve issues such as burners not heating, overheating, or delivering uneven heat. Installation is simple—disconnect power, remove the faulty switch, and secure the new one in place for reliable performance.
Installation Instructions
william from las cruces, NM
Switch and burner dead
Removed rear panel, disconnected wires, unscrewed switch X2 - installed new parts in reverse order. Note: Would have appreciated new mounting screws with replacement switch.