Range Hardware
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Popular Range Hardware
Your Price
$6.24
Your Price
$3.24
Torx Screw
This was made more difficult by the fact that the screws that hold the burners to the range top were rusted and had to be drilled out so the the burners could be released from the top.
1. Disconnect the power to the range.
2. Open the top oven door.
3. Remove 2 - 1/4" sheet metal screws at the front corners of the range top assy. Remove the Burner knobs and the two Phillps screws that holds the gas valve assembly to the range top.
4. With a drill, remove the tops of the screws to release the burners from the range top. If the screws are in good condition and just unscrew them and the upper burners from the Orifice Holders. (I had to replace the orifice holders because the screws were stuck in them due to rust).
5. When the burners are free, lift the range top at the front and remove it from the range. Disconnect the ignitor wires from the ignitors on each holder.
6. To replace the Orifice Holders, disconnect the gas supply pipes from each holder by loosening the compression nut at the holder using an adjustable wrench. Secure the Orifice Holders when loosening the fittings, BE CAREFUL not to damage the aluminum gas supply pipes.
7. Note that there are 3 different Holders, be sure to use the holder that matches the specific location.
8. For LP gas fueled ranges ONLY, remove the small gas jets from the old holders and install them in place of the parts supplied with the new orifice holders. The new parts contain NATURAL GAS jets which are not compatible with LP gas. Each Different Orifice Holder uses a specific orifice or jet, make certain that the orifice matches the orifice holder. Check for leaks at the gas connections using soapy water.
9. Carefully raise the old ignitor switches (4) off the shafts of the gas valves. Note the top and bottom configuration of the switches
10. Carefully release the wires that come from the rear of the range from the rearmost switch. Press a suitable pin or other suitable tool in a the hole, beside the wire, just enough to release the wire. (Look at the NEW switch assemble to see how this works). Remove the wires from the NEW switch first to see how it is done. Repeat the process on the old switches. (you will re-use the wires that come up from the rear of the range.
11. Install the new switch assembly over the four (4) burner gas valves, take care to align the "D" shaped shafts with the holes in each valve.
12. Insert the wires in the two connections on the rearmost switch. CAUTION!!! Be sure to install the wires so that the color codes agree with the wires on the new switch assembly. Black to black and gray to gray.
13. Install the 4 clear plastic "shields" over the shafts and against the top of each switch.
14. Re-connect the ignitor wires to the burners and Re-Install the range top, in the reverse order of dis-assembly. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS11741257
Manufacturer Part Number WP3368921
7-18 x 3/4" - sold individually.
Installation Instructions
Michael from Dardanelle, AR
Ignitor switches shorted out
The ignitor switches are installed on top of the 4 gas valves for the range top. These switches control the electronic ignition. To replace the switch assembly the top of the range must be removed to gain access. This was made more difficult by the fact that the screws that hold the burners to the range top were rusted and had to be drilled out so the the burners could be released from the top.
1. Disconnect the power to the range.
2. Open the top oven door.
3. Remove 2 - 1/4" sheet metal screws at the front corners of the range top assy. Remove the Burner knobs and the two Phillps screws that holds the gas valve assembly to the range top.
4. With a drill, remove the tops of the screws to release the burners from the range top. If the screws are in good condition and just unscrew them and the upper burners from the Orifice Holders. (I had to replace the orifice holders because the screws were stuck in them due to rust).
5. When the burners are free, lift the range top at the front and remove it from the range. Disconnect the ignitor wires from the ignitors on each holder.
6. To replace the Orifice Holders, disconnect the gas supply pipes from each holder by loosening the compression nut at the holder using an adjustable wrench. Secure the Orifice Holders when loosening the fittings, BE CAREFUL not to damage the aluminum gas supply pipes.
7. Note that there are 3 different Holders, be sure to use the holder that matches the specific location.
8. For LP gas fueled ranges ONLY, remove the small gas jets from the old holders and install them in place of the parts supplied with the new orifice holders. The new parts contain NATURAL GAS jets which are not compatible with LP gas. Each Different Orifice Holder uses a specific orifice or jet, make certain that the orifice matches the orifice holder. Check for leaks at the gas connections using soapy water.
9. Carefully raise the old ignitor switches (4) off the shafts of the gas valves. Note the top and bottom configuration of the switches
10. Carefully release the wires that come from the rear of the range from the rearmost switch. Press a suitable pin or other suitable tool in a the hole, beside the wire, just enough to release the wire. (Look at the NEW switch assemble to see how this works). Remove the wires from the NEW switch first to see how it is done. Repeat the process on the old switches. (you will re-use the wires that come up from the rear of the range.
11. Install the new switch assembly over the four (4) burner gas valves, take care to align the "D" shaped shafts with the holes in each valve.
12. Insert the wires in the two connections on the rearmost switch. CAUTION!!! Be sure to install the wires so that the color codes agree with the wires on the new switch assembly. Black to black and gray to gray.
13. Install the 4 clear plastic "shields" over the shafts and against the top of each switch.
14. Re-connect the ignitor wires to the burners and Re-Install the range top, in the reverse order of dis-assembly. Read more...
Your Price
$10.67
Knob Skirt - Black
PartSelect Number PS11731279
Manufacturer Part Number W10854242
The knob skirt or grommet on your range goes around the knob, forming a buffer between it and the range surface. If your knob skirt is damaged, you should consider replacing it. This product is approximately 2 inches in diameter. This part is made of black plastic, and is sold individually. Many of our customers have described this repair as very easy. To complete the repair, simply remove the burner knob and the old knob skirt, replace it with the new knob skirt and re-attach the burner knob. The product contains four locking tabs that should snap into place easily.
Installation Instructions
Thomas from COLORADO SPGS, CO
Your Price
$6.24
Mounting Screw
PartSelect Number PS6011723
Manufacturer Part Number WR01X11014
This OEM part is from GE and is designed for use in your refrigerator. This part is known as a door mounting screw, and is for mounting the handles of the refrigerator to the door studs.
Your Price
$6.24
Door Handle Fastener
PartSelect Number PS6447735
Manufacturer Part Number WR01X11007
This is a door handle fastener to secure the handle to your refrigerator drawer. It is also known and a mounting bolt or screw. It is approximately 1 inch in total length, and is made of metal.
Fixes these symptoms
- Door won’t open or close
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Charles A. from ARVADA, CO
Your Price
$7.79
Single Heating Element Support Clip
I had noticed that the former element was sagging at the front end. I installed the additional clips (not original) on each forward end of the element for additional support. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS243701
Manufacturer Part Number WB2X9719
The metallic clip, or also known as a broil element support, is for a oven element on a range. This part holds the broil element in place on top of the oven. If your support clip is broken then this replacement should be the solution. The tools needed for this project are slip joint pliers. For safety precautions, make sure to unplug your range from the power source, or shut off the house circuit breaker before starting this project. Refer to the installation instructions for best results and accuracy.
Fixes these symptoms
- Element will not heat
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Paul from Canton, NY
broiling element had burned through, req. its replacement
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I also removed a screw that held one end of a support bracket. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Reversing these steps, I finished the element's replacement.I had noticed that the former element was sagging at the front end. I installed the additional clips (not original) on each forward end of the element for additional support. Read more...
Your Price
$7.76
Your Price
$7.76
Screw - 10-16 x 1
PartSelect Number PS11741409
Manufacturer Part Number WP3387230
This screw is sold individually.
Installation Instructions
Wendy from BRAINTREE, MA
Freezer handle came loose on one side
Discovered that the seating in the handle was stripped on one side so removed the old handle (toughest part of the repair). Based on a previously asked/answered question, the PartSelect website provided an accurate list of the required parts (and corresponding part numbers) so I had everything I needed. Installing the new handle was very straightforward and quick.
Read more...
Your Price
$7.76
Screw, Igniter
- Removed te two Torx screws.
- Pulled the burner a couple of inches to be able to disconnect the wire.
- Spent a lot of time removing the small Philips screw holding the ignitor. Ended up breaking the ignitor with pliers to be able to put WD40 under the screw's head.
- Treated all screws with a high temperature copper paste to prevent oxidation.
Installed the new ignitor with the new screw.
- Reconnected the wire.
- Installed the two Torx screws.
- Voila, it works. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS11745563
Manufacturer Part Number WP8273062
This screw is sold individually.
Installation Instructions
Didier from LONE TREE, CO
Ignitor did not work
- Removed the cover.- Removed te two Torx screws.
- Pulled the burner a couple of inches to be able to disconnect the wire.
- Spent a lot of time removing the small Philips screw holding the ignitor. Ended up breaking the ignitor with pliers to be able to put WD40 under the screw's head.
- Treated all screws with a high temperature copper paste to prevent oxidation.
Installed the new ignitor with the new screw.
- Reconnected the wire.
- Installed the two Torx screws.
- Voila, it works. Read more...
Your Price
$7.76
Cover Screw
A licensed electrician had also moved the power line over to the new location and left a wire sticking out of the bottom of the wall to hardwire the dishwasher in again. We decided to convert the dishwasher to be able to be plugged into a standard 20amp wall outlet instead. We had already purchased a kit with a nice long cord and strain-relief snap on plastic fitting that snapped onto the metal incoming power box on the bottom front of the dishwasher. Using the supplied wire nuts, etc., we connected the wires and ground wire to the proper wires from the dishwasher and ground lug. We put the dishwasher aside and then went to work on converting the power wire coming out of the bottom of the wall, to a conventional outlet. I am mentioning all this because in our first attempt we unfortunately put the receptacle a bit high off the floor and the new power cord plug end, stuck out and hit the back of the dishwasher so it would not go all the way in and was sticking out from under the counter top. I tried using one of those flat adapter cables, but even that still stuck out to far. So we ended up relocating the outlet box as low as we could on the wall and this allowed the plug to stick out into the opening area at the bottom rear area of the dishwasher so it could now be slid all the way in under the kitchen counter properly. I hope that bit of trial and error will save you some time if you ever decide to go the pluggable route too.
The new installation required the use of the dishwasher side mount brackets, so we had to purchase a replacement set of those, complete with the hardware to screw them down.
This project took a bit longer than planned due to the power plug problem, one which we will remember for any other similar appliance relocation projects, as well as the time to get our new parts in that we had to order, but other than that the rest went smoothly and the dishwasher was relocated successfully. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS11740701
Manufacturer Part Number WP308685
Sold individually.
Installation Instructions
Curtis from PALM BAY, FL
Relocating dishwasher into the new kitchen layout
In this case the dishwasher had already been installed for a few years. After removing it, we inspected it and saw it needed a bit of TLC. The transport wheels on the back were missing, making it harder to move around without scratching the tile and some of the original hardware was rusted or broken off. I looked up the parts easily here on PartsSelect using their parts breakdown diagrams and was glad to see what I needed was still available. We had a licensed plumber relocate the hot water line and drain for us to make things a bit easier.A licensed electrician had also moved the power line over to the new location and left a wire sticking out of the bottom of the wall to hardwire the dishwasher in again. We decided to convert the dishwasher to be able to be plugged into a standard 20amp wall outlet instead. We had already purchased a kit with a nice long cord and strain-relief snap on plastic fitting that snapped onto the metal incoming power box on the bottom front of the dishwasher. Using the supplied wire nuts, etc., we connected the wires and ground wire to the proper wires from the dishwasher and ground lug. We put the dishwasher aside and then went to work on converting the power wire coming out of the bottom of the wall, to a conventional outlet. I am mentioning all this because in our first attempt we unfortunately put the receptacle a bit high off the floor and the new power cord plug end, stuck out and hit the back of the dishwasher so it would not go all the way in and was sticking out from under the counter top. I tried using one of those flat adapter cables, but even that still stuck out to far. So we ended up relocating the outlet box as low as we could on the wall and this allowed the plug to stick out into the opening area at the bottom rear area of the dishwasher so it could now be slid all the way in under the kitchen counter properly. I hope that bit of trial and error will save you some time if you ever decide to go the pluggable route too.
The new installation required the use of the dishwasher side mount brackets, so we had to purchase a replacement set of those, complete with the hardware to screw them down.
This project took a bit longer than planned due to the power plug problem, one which we will remember for any other similar appliance relocation projects, as well as the time to get our new parts in that we had to order, but other than that the rest went smoothly and the dishwasher was relocated successfully. Read more...
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