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Crosley Range Switches
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Popular Crosley Range Switches
The infinite burner switch controls the stove top eight-inch surface burner, which is the large surface element. If your surface element is not warming up, the element can be tested to determine whether or not it is defective. If your element is not defective, then it is more than likely that the infinite burner switch is the issue. Before you install the infinite burner switch you will need to unplug your range from the power supply, or shut off the home circuit breaker. The tools you will need to do this repair include a number one square head screwdriver and a pair of needle nose pliers.
The infinite burner switch controls the stove top eight-inch surface burner, which is the large surface element. If your surface element is not warming up, the element can be tested to determine whether or not it is defective. If your element is not defective, then it is more than likely that the infinite burner switch is the issue. Before you install the infinite burner switch you will need to unplug your range from the power supply, or shut off the home circuit breaker. The tools you will need to do this repair include a number one square head screwdriver and a pair of needle nose pliers.
What this part fixes:
- Element will not heat
- Little to no heat when broiling
- Oven is too hot
Installation Instructions
William from Burke, VA
Back Burner didn't function
We moved into our townhouse about 6 yrs ago. During the home inspection we checked the range and saw the Red light come on when we turned on each burner. After moving in we realized the large back burner did not work. The light came on but the element never got hot. I of course replaced the element but that did not work. Several years
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passed and we just ignored the issue. We just got by with 3 burners. Lately we realized how much easier it would be to have all four burners working. Knowing that we will be selling our townhome soon we figured we should either fix the problem or replace the range.
I didn't want to call a repair man because I didn't want to be charged a $150 to have him come out and they to pay extra for parts (and of course a 2nd visit). So I went to www.Partselect.com and typed in the model of my range. Found the diagrams for my range and saw that from the switch ran a pair of wires to a Universal Receptacle (aka Terminal Block Kit). I figured since the Red light turns on when I turn the switch on it has to be the Terminal Block.
I ordered the part from www.Partselect.com ($14.00 including shipping) and replaced the part. The burner still would not get hot. I decided to test the switch. I removed the Control Panel cover (which is secure by 2 screws just below the digital clock). Once the cover was off, I saw the Blue wires going from the switch to the Terminal Block. To test the switch, I disconnected the two Blue Wires from connectors H1 and H2 and temporarily connected them to H1 and H2 of another switch. Sure enough, when I turned the other switch the element got hot.
So I placed another order from www.Partselect.com for a replacement switch ($50 including shipping). When that part came, I flipped the electrical circuit going to the range. I then removed the Control Panel cover again. With the new switch in hand (holding it near the old switch still attached to the Control Panel, I used the pliers to pull out each wire from it's connector and place it to it's corresponding connector on the new switch. Once all the wires were connected to the new switch, I pulled the knob of the switch off then used a phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the switch to the control panel. I replaced the old switch with the new one put the screws back in, replaced the knob. Turned the circuit back on and tested to make sure that the element got hot. When it did, then I replaced the Control Panel cover and enjoyed a nice dinner that was cooked in less time than we're accustomed to because of the new burner. So I spent a total of $64.00 to fix our range. Less than half the amount I would've spent if I called for a technican. And far less then buying a new range.
Partselect is a great resource for information. They have diagrams and schematics available to view and/or download. And when ordering it's a snap because there's an "Add to Cart" button next to each part it lists. So there's no confusion. I've already recommended Partselect.com to about 5 people. And will continue to do so!!
I didn't want to call a repair man because I didn't want to be charged a $150 to have him come out and they to pay extra for parts (and of course a 2nd visit). So I went to www.Partselect.com and typed in the model of my range. Found the diagrams for my range and saw that from the switch ran a pair of wires to a Universal Receptacle (aka Terminal Block Kit). I figured since the Red light turns on when I turn the switch on it has to be the Terminal Block.
I ordered the part from www.Partselect.com ($14.00 including shipping) and replaced the part. The burner still would not get hot. I decided to test the switch. I removed the Control Panel cover (which is secure by 2 screws just below the digital clock). Once the cover was off, I saw the Blue wires going from the switch to the Terminal Block. To test the switch, I disconnected the two Blue Wires from connectors H1 and H2 and temporarily connected them to H1 and H2 of another switch. Sure enough, when I turned the other switch the element got hot.
So I placed another order from www.Partselect.com for a replacement switch ($50 including shipping). When that part came, I flipped the electrical circuit going to the range. I then removed the Control Panel cover again. With the new switch in hand (holding it near the old switch still attached to the Control Panel, I used the pliers to pull out each wire from it's connector and place it to it's corresponding connector on the new switch. Once all the wires were connected to the new switch, I pulled the knob of the switch off then used a phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the switch to the control panel. I replaced the old switch with the new one put the screws back in, replaced the knob. Turned the circuit back on and tested to make sure that the element got hot. When it did, then I replaced the Control Panel cover and enjoyed a nice dinner that was cooked in less time than we're accustomed to because of the new burner. So I spent a total of $64.00 to fix our range. Less than half the amount I would've spent if I called for a technican. And far less then buying a new range.
Partselect is a great resource for information. They have diagrams and schematics available to view and/or download. And when ordering it's a snap because there's an "Add to Cart" button next to each part it lists. So there's no confusion. I've already recommended Partselect.com to about 5 people. And will continue to do so!!
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$63.75
In Stock
This is a part for your range. This switch controls the stovetop surface burner. If you notice that your stove top is not turning on or is not adjusting to the corresponding desired heat, it is mostly likely due to the burner switch needing to be replaced. You will need a #1 square-head screwdriver and needle-nose pliers. Disconnect the power from the range. You will need to move the range out from the wall to remove the upper back panel to access to this part. This is an OEM genuine part.
This is a part for your range. This switch controls the stovetop surface burner. If you notice that your stove top is not turning on or is not adjusting to the corresponding desired heat, it is mostly likely due to the burner switch needing to be replaced. You will need a #1 square-head screwdriver and needle-nose pliers. Disconnect the power from the range. You will need to move the range out from the wall to remove the upper back panel to access to this part. This is an OEM genuine part.
Installation Instructions
Gerald from Paris, TN
Switch Was Making A Arcing Sound When Burner Was On
Removed the back cover of the range. Removed the knob from the front of the switch. Removed 2 screws holding switch to range. Removed wires one at a time and connected to proper poles on replacement switch and reinstalled new switch on range
This switch controls the stove top surface burner. This surface element control switch is for ranges.
Surface element control switch turns the surface element on and off and controls how much heat the element produces.
Unplug the range or shut off the house circuit breaker for the range before installing this part.
This switch controls the stove top surface burner. This surface element control switch is for ranges.
Surface element control switch turns the surface element on and off and controls how much heat the element produces.
Unplug the range or shut off the house circuit breaker for the range before installing this part.
Installation Instructions
Miguel from PLANT CITY, FL
The front left dual element stopped regulating temperature
Replaced the dual element switch and that fixed it up
Four switches are included with the assembly.
Four switches are included with the assembly.
Installation Instructions
Joseph from VAN HORNESVLE, NY
Gas stove burners would not ignite.
Ordered spark ignition assembly and followed directions found on YouTube. Went very easy.
This spark ignition switch assembly with wire harness ensures reliable burner ignition for your cooktop or range. Built for durability, it restores proper function when switches fail or wiring becomes damaged. Installation involves disconnecting power, removing the old assembly, and connecting the new harness to the control knobs for smooth operation.
This spark ignition switch assembly with wire harness ensures reliable burner ignition for your cooktop or range. Built for durability, it restores proper function when switches fail or wiring becomes damaged. Installation involves disconnecting power, removing the old assembly, and connecting the new harness to the control knobs for smooth operation.
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This switch controls the stove top surface burner.
This switch controls the stove top surface burner.
Installation Instructions
George from WYOMING, MI
Controller fails to hold a constant heating element tempature
The replacement of this part is simple enough, out with the old, in with the new. At issue here is the way the controller fails. The heating element goes to the highest temperature. The original controller on this Kenmore oven failed after about two years and the first replacement that I got from you lasted about a year and a half. T
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he defective controllers seem to be working properly once the controller has been turned off and then restarted, but the frequency of failure increases with time until you hardly dare to step away from the oven. This controller should open on failyor, not close.
George Ritz
George Ritz
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This part controls your warming drawer element.
This part controls your warming drawer element.
This oven door light switch signals the light to turn off when the oven door closes. If your light switch is defective or you smell a burning odor, make sure to check the switch and replace it. The tool needed for this replacement is a screwdriver. Locate the switch, usually from under the oven top. Remove the wires and pull the switch out. Refer to the diagram provided by the manufacturer for further instructions and guidance before installation. Make sure you remember to unplug the oven from the power source before starting this repair, and wear gloves for protection.
This oven door light switch signals the light to turn off when the oven door closes. If your light switch is defective or you smell a burning odor, make sure to check the switch and replace it. The tool needed for this replacement is a screwdriver. Locate the switch, usually from under the oven top. Remove the wires and pull the switch out. Refer to the diagram provided by the manufacturer for further instructions and guidance before installation. Make sure you remember to unplug the oven from the power source before starting this repair, and wear gloves for protection.
Installation Instructions
Vincent from Brunswick, GA
Oven light stayed on & smelled like electrical burning.
Wife was cooking our thanks giving turkey, when an oder of burning was noticed. I walked over to the oven and smelled the area of oven light, it was bad. I turned off and unpluged oven. Got a screw driver, unscrewed 4 screws then noticed the burned switch from under the oven top. removed 3 wires, covered w/ elec. tape, and pulled oven lig
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ht switch out front. looked at part number and ordered online. We were able to cook our turkey and enjoyed our meal.
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