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Hotpoint Refrigerator Switches
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Popular Hotpoint Refrigerator Switches
This is the light switch that goes in your refrigerator. If the light is not working or stays on, you may need to replace the switch. It is made of mainly white plastic, and is an OEM part, directly from the manufacturer. Be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the power source before you begin this repair. To remove the switch, simply use a flathead screwdriver to pop the switch out from the refrigerator wall, then disconnect the wires. Reconnect the wires to the new switch, snap it into place, and the repair is complete.
This is the light switch that goes in your refrigerator. If the light is not working or stays on, you may need to replace the switch. It is made of mainly white plastic, and is an OEM part, directly from the manufacturer. Be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the power source before you begin this repair. To remove the switch, simply use a flathead screwdriver to pop the switch out from the refrigerator wall, then disconnect the wires. Reconnect the wires to the new switch, snap it into place, and the repair is complete.
Installation Instructions
Lorinda from Dallas, TX
dropped something on the light switch and it broke off
we just pried out the old switch and pulled it out the rest of the way with a pair of needle nose pliers. Pulled off the wires on the broken switch and reattached to the new one and just slid/clicked it back into the hole.
The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the switch. The switch is spring loaded and is a generally closed type of switch meaning there should be no continuity when the button is depressed, and continuity through the switch when the button is not depressed. This plastic, white, OEM switch is sourced directly from the manufacturer, is sold individually and is easy to replace. The repair usually takes less than 15 minutes and requires a flat blade screwdriver and needle nose pliers.
The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the switch. The switch is spring loaded and is a generally closed type of switch meaning there should be no continuity when the button is depressed, and continuity through the switch when the button is not depressed. This plastic, white, OEM switch is sourced directly from the manufacturer, is sold individually and is easy to replace. The repair usually takes less than 15 minutes and requires a flat blade screwdriver and needle nose pliers.
Installation Instructions
Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
Sticking Light Switch
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the c
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atch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
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$56.33
In Stock
This genuine OEM solenoid is designed for use with GE refrigerators and controls the opening and closing of the ice chute door. It serves as a direct replacement for a worn or faulty solenoid, helping to restore proper ice dispenser function. Constructed from durable metal, this part includes all necessary wiring for installation and is sold individually.
Installation requires a Phillips screwdriver. Always refer to your appliance’s manual or diagram to ensure proper placement and compatibility before beginning the repair.
This genuine OEM solenoid is designed for use with GE refrigerators and controls the opening and closing of the ice chute door. It serves as a direct replacement for a worn or faulty solenoid, helping to restore proper ice dispenser function. Constructed from durable metal, this part includes all necessary wiring for installation and is sold individually.
Installation requires a Phillips screwdriver. Always refer to your appliance’s manual or diagram to ensure proper placement and compatibility before beginning the repair.
Installation Instructions
Bill from Cleveland Heights, OH
flap to ice dispenser would not close
The flap to the ice dispenser would not close, which allowed the ice dispenser to frost up, freezing the water dispenser.
This was a simple fix. The solenoid had stopped working, so it would not automatically close the door flap. I read some posts on this site that suggest that you had to remove the trim around the entire dis ... Read more penser to get at the solenoid. My fridge may be a newer model, but in any event it was much easier than that. Just below the touch pad for choosing water, ice, or crushed ice (above where the ice/water dispenses) there are three very small holes spaced about an inch a part. After unplugging the fridge, I stuck a small philips-head screw driver in each, freeing spring clips. That allowed the touch pad to come off. I then removed four screws to remove a plastic piece covering the chute, giving me access to the flap and solenoid. I just unplugged the solenoid from the circuit board on the back of the touch pad and then removed three screws to remove the old solenoid. I replaced it with the new solenoid and plugged it into the circuit board. The touch pad then snapped back into place.
The hardest part was figuring out how to get at the solenoid. After I found that pushing the clips in those three holes allowed me to remove the touch pad, it could not be any easier.
This was a simple fix. The solenoid had stopped working, so it would not automatically close the door flap. I read some posts on this site that suggest that you had to remove the trim around the entire dis ... Read more penser to get at the solenoid. My fridge may be a newer model, but in any event it was much easier than that. Just below the touch pad for choosing water, ice, or crushed ice (above where the ice/water dispenses) there are three very small holes spaced about an inch a part. After unplugging the fridge, I stuck a small philips-head screw driver in each, freeing spring clips. That allowed the touch pad to come off. I then removed four screws to remove a plastic piece covering the chute, giving me access to the flap and solenoid. I just unplugged the solenoid from the circuit board on the back of the touch pad and then removed three screws to remove the old solenoid. I replaced it with the new solenoid and plugged it into the circuit board. The touch pad then snapped back into place.
The hardest part was figuring out how to get at the solenoid. After I found that pushing the clips in those three holes allowed me to remove the touch pad, it could not be any easier.
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This is the replacement micro switch, or dispenser switch for your refrigerator. It is gray in color and measures approximately 1 inch by half an inch. The dispenser switch is what tells your refrigerator that it is ok to dispense ice or water. If your refrigerator is not dispensing ice or water, you may have a faulty or damaged switch. Be sure to disconnect the power to your refrigerator before you begin this repair. This switch is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
This is the replacement micro switch, or dispenser switch for your refrigerator. It is gray in color and measures approximately 1 inch by half an inch. The dispenser switch is what tells your refrigerator that it is ok to dispense ice or water. If your refrigerator is not dispensing ice or water, you may have a faulty or damaged switch. Be sure to disconnect the power to your refrigerator before you begin this repair. This switch is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Installation Instructions
Bill from Cleveland Heights, OH
flap to ice dispenser would not close
The flap to the ice dispenser would not close, which allowed the ice dispenser to frost up, freezing the water dispenser.
This was a simple fix. The solenoid had stopped working, so it would not automatically close the door flap. I read some posts on this site that suggest that you had to remove the trim around the entire dis ... Read more penser to get at the solenoid. My fridge may be a newer model, but in any event it was much easier than that. Just below the touch pad for choosing water, ice, or crushed ice (above where the ice/water dispenses) there are three very small holes spaced about an inch a part. After unplugging the fridge, I stuck a small philips-head screw driver in each, freeing spring clips. That allowed the touch pad to come off. I then removed four screws to remove a plastic piece covering the chute, giving me access to the flap and solenoid. I just unplugged the solenoid from the circuit board on the back of the touch pad and then removed three screws to remove the old solenoid. I replaced it with the new solenoid and plugged it into the circuit board. The touch pad then snapped back into place.
The hardest part was figuring out how to get at the solenoid. After I found that pushing the clips in those three holes allowed me to remove the touch pad, it could not be any easier.
This was a simple fix. The solenoid had stopped working, so it would not automatically close the door flap. I read some posts on this site that suggest that you had to remove the trim around the entire dis ... Read more penser to get at the solenoid. My fridge may be a newer model, but in any event it was much easier than that. Just below the touch pad for choosing water, ice, or crushed ice (above where the ice/water dispenses) there are three very small holes spaced about an inch a part. After unplugging the fridge, I stuck a small philips-head screw driver in each, freeing spring clips. That allowed the touch pad to come off. I then removed four screws to remove a plastic piece covering the chute, giving me access to the flap and solenoid. I just unplugged the solenoid from the circuit board on the back of the touch pad and then removed three screws to remove the old solenoid. I replaced it with the new solenoid and plugged it into the circuit board. The touch pad then snapped back into place.
The hardest part was figuring out how to get at the solenoid. After I found that pushing the clips in those three holes allowed me to remove the touch pad, it could not be any easier.
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3 terminal.
3 terminal.
Installation Instructions
James from Goshen, KY
Broken freezer light switch
Part arrived very fast as ordered..need to pry old switch out from top..use care to push the retainer down..after old switch was 1/2 out, I used a putty knife for better leveridge.Remove wire connector...after plugging in the wire connector to the replacement switch, make sure the switch is properly positioned so the switch will depress w
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hen door shuts.
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This part helps protect the motor from overheating.
This part helps protect the motor from overheating.
Installation Instructions
BENJAMIN from LAKESIDE, CA
Fridge smelled like something electronic was burning
Removed the back cover of the fridge with it still pluged in. The next time the compressor tried to kick on, a small piece of black plastic next to the black tank caught fire, and then went out. I unpluged the fridge, unpluged the two wires feeding the black box. Then the box unpluged from the tank. I searched on the internet for the
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part using the model #. It ended up being a overload/ptc or relay. There was a smaller black box attached with I think is some sort of an overload. I unplugged the overload and it plugged right into the new relay I had overnighted. Although the new relay was white (not black) and the plug attachments were in different locations, it work great.
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The start relay briefly boosts the compressor, and then shuts off as soon as the motor gets up to speed.
The start relay briefly boosts the compressor, and then shuts off as soon as the motor gets up to speed.
Installation Instructions
Spenser from Adell, WI
compressor would not start
Trouble shooting with meter to make sure all compressor windings were not shorted or grounded. Then check for voltage coming to compressor. Checked start capacitor. Everything checked out ok so I turned to overload or start relay. Over load ohmed ok but relay was not and a rattling noise was heard when you shook it.
Also known as the Start Relay. The start relay briefly boosts the compressor, and then shuts off as soon as the motor gets up to speed.
Also known as the Start Relay. The start relay briefly boosts the compressor, and then shuts off as soon as the motor gets up to speed.
Installation Instructions
John H from Austin, TX
Relay
Removed back panel. Opened cover to relay attached to the compressor and pulled off replacing with new relay. No problem.
Better than paying $250 for someone else to do it.
Better than paying $250 for someone else to do it.
This part helps protect the motor from overheating.
This part helps protect the motor from overheating.
What this part fixes:
- Freezer section too warm
- Fridge and Freezer are too warm
- Fridge too warm
Installation Instructions
Jerry L from LARGO, FL
Fridge and Freezer too warm
Took off the back cover, unplug it of course, use the flat screwdriver to pop off the cap on the compressor and just unplug the two units detached wires put em on the new units and plug the parts back to compressor, plugged in the fridge to see and it didn't come on so I left it for a day in discussed, came home from work and it was runni
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ng? Have no idea why it would do that but it's running now and the temperature's are good?
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