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This water inlet valve (Refrigerator Water Inlet Valve Assembly) supplies water to the ice maker and the water dispenser in your refrigerator. It is located at the back of the fridge, beneath the bottom panel. It is connected directly to 2 water supplies, a wiring harness, and your inlet water tube. This part is located at the back of the fridge, beneath the bottom panel. It is connected directly to 2 water supplies, a wiring harness, and your inlet water tube. Minerals and sediments can build up over time and cause a blockage in your inlet valve. They can also cause the valve to stick open, leading to an overflow of water. If this part is malfunctioning, water flow to your appliance could be compromised. Check for small ice cubes or a lack of ice cubes/water, as this is an obvious sign the part is damaged. The water inlet valve must be replaced if the solenoids no longer have continuity or the valve has internal blockage. Test your water inlet valve with a multimeter. You can test both the water dispenser side and the ice maker side. The part measures approximately 3 inches long and 2.75 inches wide and is constructed of plastic and metal. This replacement part features 1 dual inlet water valve with quick connections. It also has 1/4 and 5/16 John Guest fittings for the outlet lines and a 1/4 compression fitting for the inlet line.
This water inlet valve (Refrigerator Water Inlet Valve Assembly) supplies water to the ice maker and the water dispenser in your refrigerator. It is located at the back of the fridge, beneath the bottom panel. It is connected directly to 2 water supplies, a wiring harness, and your inlet water tube. This part is located at the back of the fridge, beneath the bottom panel. It is connected directly to 2 water supplies, a wiring harness, and your inlet water tube. Minerals and sediments can build up over time and cause a blockage in your inlet valve. They can also cause the valve to stick open, leading to an overflow of water. If this part is malfunctioning, water flow to your appliance could be compromised. Check for small ice cubes or a lack of ice cubes/water, as this is an obvious sign the part is damaged. The water inlet valve must be replaced if the solenoids no longer have continuity or the valve has internal blockage. Test your water inlet valve with a multimeter. You can test both the water dispenser side and the ice maker side. The part measures approximately 3 inches long and 2.75 inches wide and is constructed of plastic and metal. This replacement part features 1 dual inlet water valve with quick connections. It also has 1/4 and 5/16 John Guest fittings for the outlet lines and a 1/4 compression fitting for the inlet line.
What this part fixes:
- Ice maker dispenses too little ice
- Ice maker not making ice
- Ice maker won’t dispense ice
Installation Instructions
ralph from bristow, VA
Refrigertor water dispenser not working BUT ice machine is working
The very first symptom here is important! The door water dispenser is not working but the ice macine is working. You may only have a frozen water tube in the door so do the following before diagnosing that your solenoid valve is bad: 1) the tube usually runs under the front of the refrigerator and usually has a quick disconnect. Undo t
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he connection and press the dispenser. If water comes out of the tube you have a frozen or blocked tube in the door. 2) Immediately adjust the temperature in the freezer and warm the freezer compartment as much as you can without destroying the freezer contents. Wait 24 hours. This will usually unfreeze the line. Do not waste your time with a hair dryer. NOW, if this doesn't work and you are convinced you need to order and replace the solenoid, follow these steps. Assemble your tools first. I needed a good ratchet set and a screwdriver. A shop towel is helpful for spilled water. A light is handy. Pull out the refreigerator to gain access to the rear of the unit. Unplug the power and close the water valve (older homes, you may need to actually shut the house water supply). Remove the screws which hold the cover over the lower half of the refrigerator. On the left you will see the solenoid. It's always good to see that your new part matches the one you feel needs replaced. They may not match perfectly due to changing design but they should be very similar. One screw holds this part in place and access is very simple. Now simply unplug the electrical connections. In my case, one blue "blade" type connection (powering the water) and one red "blade" type connection powering the ice maker. They are not the same size and this coupled with the coloring means you will not accidently switch them. pull the tubes clear of the solenoid. This is simple and needs no explantion. Grab your new solenoid and reattach both the electrical and water lines (two, remember, ice maker and drink dispencer). Replace the single screw. Re-attach the rear, lower refrigerator cover and go to the front of the unit to check the water. You can listen carefully and hear the power engage from the new part bringing you water. Clean up, replace the refrigerator back to its place and look really tired when your wife sees that you worked "so hard"! You probably saved at least $50-$80 from a service call which can now be used to take the family to dinner after your "exhausting" 15 minute workout of removing about 10 screws and wheeling the unit in and out of place. Writing this article took longer! My 4 year old worked harder holding the flash light!
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A leaking water line or empty ice bin may point to a faulty refrigerator inlet valve. This replacement assembly includes the valve and connected tubing used to direct water toward the dispenser and ice-making system. Before replacing it, inspect the water filter, supply line, fill tube, connectors, and household water pressure. Turn off the refrigerators power and water supply before opening the rear service area. Some refrigerators use flammable refrigerant, so do not pierce, heat, or damage any nearby sealed-system tubing. Install each water line in the correct port, secure the electrical plug, and watch the connections for leaks when service is restored.
A leaking water line or empty ice bin may point to a faulty refrigerator inlet valve. This replacement assembly includes the valve and connected tubing used to direct water toward the dispenser and ice-making system. Before replacing it, inspect the water filter, supply line, fill tube, connectors, and household water pressure. Turn off the refrigerators power and water supply before opening the rear service area. Some refrigerators use flammable refrigerant, so do not pierce, heat, or damage any nearby sealed-system tubing. Install each water line in the correct port, secure the electrical plug, and watch the connections for leaks when service is restored.
Installation Instructions
John from CLARK MILLS, NY
Water valve was not working
Unplugged the unit took out valve and water line put new valve and water line back just the way it was in 45 min had ice cubes being made no leaks
This part releases water from the supply line when it's activated.
This part releases water from the supply line when it's activated.
Installation Instructions
Dennis from MARTINSBURG, WV
No water from the dispenser and Water leaking on floor
I searched YouTube for the problem and was quickly taken to several videos that detailed to required actions. This encouraged me to proceed, so I took the back cover off and found the water valve leaking. I then googled the make and model of the frig and found the part. The YouTube videos provided all of the details needed to determine
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the problem and replace the faulty part. Once the part arrived, I was able to install the new one in a few minutes. Operation returned to the water dispenser and the leak was gone. Total cost of the repair was $56 and took about 1.5 hours to remove the original part, order the replacement and install it when it came. Perfect!
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The water inlet valve on your refrigerator allows water to enter the ice maker and water dispenser. If your ice maker or water dispenser is not functioning properly, or you notice a leak, you may need to replace the single outlet valve. This single outlet valve has 1/4-inch compressions fittings and is intended for use with refrigerators that make crescent-shaped ice cubes. As per the manufacturer, this valve has a new quick connection. You must cut the retaining nut off your current plastic water line, and gently push it into the new valve. Be sure to disconnect the water and power sources from the refrigerator before you begin this repair.
The water inlet valve on your refrigerator allows water to enter the ice maker and water dispenser. If your ice maker or water dispenser is not functioning properly, or you notice a leak, you may need to replace the single outlet valve. This single outlet valve has 1/4-inch compressions fittings and is intended for use with refrigerators that make crescent-shaped ice cubes. As per the manufacturer, this valve has a new quick connection. You must cut the retaining nut off your current plastic water line, and gently push it into the new valve. Be sure to disconnect the water and power sources from the refrigerator before you begin this repair.
Installation Instructions
Michael from Bradenton, FL
ice maker not working properly and door seal worn
Two screws held the icemaker on. You do not even have to take them all the way out to remove the IM. Replacement of the water valve was just as easy except they (parts manufacturer) updated the flange nut with a compression fitting and it took me a minute looking at it before I realize what was going on. The door seal could not be easi
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er, no tools just a few minutes of time
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This valve comes with 1/4" compression inlet.
NOTE: This part comes with new quick connections. To install - cut retaining nuts off of existing plastic water lines and gently push them into new valve. To remove - depress ring that the tube slides into.
This valve comes with 1/4" compression inlet.
NOTE: This part comes with new quick connections. To install - cut retaining nuts off of existing plastic water lines and gently push them into new valve. To remove - depress ring that the tube slides into.
Installation Instructions
anthony from thornton, CO
Cracked housing on the vaave
1. Turn off water supply, and electrical ( unplug it) to fridge.
2. Remove water line to valve. Watch for water to pour out of the line. Have a towel handy.
3. Remove the cardboard cover on the bottom of the fridge.
4. Remove the screws that hold the valve in place.
5. Remove the valve, be careful the waterlines ar ... Read more e still attached.
6. Place a towel under valve to catch any water that leaks out from water lines.
7. Remove electrical lines, make sure to mark which went where. One is for the ice, and one is for the water. Make sure the power is off, there is 120 volts present at those connections.
- now my waterlines attached using a compression type fitting. The new valve I got used just a push in type of attachment. But, easy enough I just removed the pieces for the compression and the waterlines pushed right in and worked fine.
- the mounting harness for the valve was alittle different but the parts I need were in the right location and she fit in fine.
8. Attach water lines. They are different sizes so you can't get those mixed up.
9. Attach electrical lines.
- the new valve came with adaptors for my electrical connection. Just snapped them on and kept on going.
10. turn on watersupply for fridge. Plug it back in.
11. Test for leaks, and proper operation. ie. When you push the water does the water valve open?
12. Unplug fridge
13. Now is a good time to clean out any dust or dirt that has accumallated in under around your fridge.
14. reassemble, valve, then cover. move fridge back into place.
15. Plug fridge back in.
16. Take a clean glass.
17. Fill with water from the front.
18. Take full glass of water and go watch tv. You've earned it, and saved yourself probably $100.00 in labor costs. Good Job.
2. Remove water line to valve. Watch for water to pour out of the line. Have a towel handy.
3. Remove the cardboard cover on the bottom of the fridge.
4. Remove the screws that hold the valve in place.
5. Remove the valve, be careful the waterlines ar ... Read more e still attached.
6. Place a towel under valve to catch any water that leaks out from water lines.
7. Remove electrical lines, make sure to mark which went where. One is for the ice, and one is for the water. Make sure the power is off, there is 120 volts present at those connections.
- now my waterlines attached using a compression type fitting. The new valve I got used just a push in type of attachment. But, easy enough I just removed the pieces for the compression and the waterlines pushed right in and worked fine.
- the mounting harness for the valve was alittle different but the parts I need were in the right location and she fit in fine.
8. Attach water lines. They are different sizes so you can't get those mixed up.
9. Attach electrical lines.
- the new valve came with adaptors for my electrical connection. Just snapped them on and kept on going.
10. turn on watersupply for fridge. Plug it back in.
11. Test for leaks, and proper operation. ie. When you push the water does the water valve open?
12. Unplug fridge
13. Now is a good time to clean out any dust or dirt that has accumallated in under around your fridge.
14. reassemble, valve, then cover. move fridge back into place.
15. Plug fridge back in.
16. Take a clean glass.
17. Fill with water from the front.
18. Take full glass of water and go watch tv. You've earned it, and saved yourself probably $100.00 in labor costs. Good Job.
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MAKE THIS REPAIR A GUARANTEED WIN
OVER 2 MILLION PARTS TO ENSURE VICTORY
An ice maker that fills slowly, makes undersized cubes, or leaks may have a faulty water inlet valve. This electrically operated valve controls when water enters the ice-making system. It should open during the fill cycle and close tightly afterward. Mineral deposits, damaged seals, or an electrical fault can interfere with its operation. Check for low water pressure, a clogged filter, kinked tubing, loose wiring, or a frozen fill tube before replacing the valve. Unplug the refrigerator and close the household water valve before beginning. Follow the appliance diagram, avoid damaging nearby tubing, and test all connections carefully for leaks when finished.
An ice maker that fills slowly, makes undersized cubes, or leaks may have a faulty water inlet valve. This electrically operated valve controls when water enters the ice-making system. It should open during the fill cycle and close tightly afterward. Mineral deposits, damaged seals, or an electrical fault can interfere with its operation. Check for low water pressure, a clogged filter, kinked tubing, loose wiring, or a frozen fill tube before replacing the valve. Unplug the refrigerator and close the household water valve before beginning. Follow the appliance diagram, avoid damaging nearby tubing, and test all connections carefully for leaks when finished.
This part releases water from the supply line when it's activated.
This part releases water from the supply line when it's activated.
Installation Instructions
Ray from Salem, AR
Water continued to flow after icemaker was full
Using nutdriver removed access panel on back. Unscrewed water supply line. Using nutdriver removed water inlet valve. The feed line to the icemaker is a pushlock connection so removed feed line. Then reverse process.
*Please note, this part is a substitute from the original. The valve is a new quick connect. No nuts or connectors are needed, just cut the old nuts off of the tubing and gently push them into the valve.
*Please note, this part is a substitute from the original. The valve is a new quick connect. No nuts or connectors are needed, just cut the old nuts off of the tubing and gently push them into the valve.
Installation Instructions
Joseph from Cortlandt Manor, NY
No water/no ice
The first sign of trouble was when the water dispenser would continue to come out after you let up on the button. Then water and ice stopped. Changed the secondary inlet value and the main water valve, as well as a 1/4" water line running to the freezer (it was cracked). Water is working. Ice maker is working better than ever. New li
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fe for an aged refrige.
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This part has one port and 2 solenoids and comes with a mounting bracket. The water valve is a solenoid-operated switch located at the bottom of the refrigerator. When it is energized by electrical power, water is released from the supply line through the water valve and into the compact icemaker mold.
This part has one port and 2 solenoids and comes with a mounting bracket. The water valve is a solenoid-operated switch located at the bottom of the refrigerator. When it is energized by electrical power, water is released from the supply line through the water valve and into the compact icemaker mold.
Installation Instructions
James from Centerville, OH
Leaking water valve
Removed black cardboard covering on back of refrig with nut driver (6 screws), turned off water supply to pump, removed cooper waterline to pump with adjustable wrench, removed 1 screw holding pump to refrigerator, removed plastic waterline from pump by turning hose counter clockwise. Inserter plastic water line in new pump by screwing li
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ne in clockwise, pushed orange plastic stop around waterline into pump, connected cooper water line to pump first wrapping threads on pump with teflon plumbers tape, reinstalled pump to refrig and cardboard back on refrig with 6 screws.
One side note:.
This is the second pump which has burst at the blue plastic seam in seven years.
One side note:.
This is the second pump which has burst at the blue plastic seam in seven years.
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This water valve assembly has been redesigned. It has a new quick connect style valve. To install: Cut original plastic nuts off tubing and gently push into valve until they stop. No other nuts or connectors needed.
This water valve assembly has been redesigned. It has a new quick connect style valve. To install: Cut original plastic nuts off tubing and gently push into valve until they stop. No other nuts or connectors needed.
Installation Instructions
Eric from Westerville, OH
Water leaked out on floor from behind refrigerator.
First turned water source off and unplugged fridge. Then removed back panel, turned water supply back on and saw leak from valve. Turned water off again and ordered new valve. Paid for 3-5 day shipping, but it came next day! Removed single bolt holding bracket it place. Simple firm pull release of water lines feeding from valve. Unscrewed
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brass water supply nut with crescent wrench. Marked four electrical leads so I'd know where to replace them. Then repeated process in reverse to install new valve. Simply push water lines back into color coded valve outlets.Also replaced water filter and found that the GWF Filter is now the MWF fitler.
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