Tappan Refrigerator Parts
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Popular Tappan Refrigerator Parts
Your Price
$19.06
Light Bulb
PartSelect Number PS12751166
Manufacturer Part Number 316538904
This OEM 40 watt appliance light bulb is used for some ranges, refrigerators, freezers, and microwaves. Simply locate the existing bulb, unscrew it from its socket, and replace with new light bulb. If the existing bulb is broken in the socket, disconnect the power to the refrigerator and use a pair of needle nose pliers to grip the internal fragments of the bulb to unscrew. Replace with the new bulb and reconnect the power to the refrigerator. These bulbs are sold individually and are a commonly replaced part; consider ordering a spare.
Installation Instructions
Colin from Hollis, NY
Ice-Maker and Water Dispenser not working.
First I disconnected the power cord, then removed the screws that held the bracket that holds the base for the water-filer in place. I then disconnected the water lines(intake and outflow). Next I removed the screws that held the water-filter's base in place. I then disconnected the release lock mechanism for the filter and finally removed the water-filter base. I did the reverse to install the new water-filter base. Previously I had tested the intake water line and noticed the water was flowing with enough pressure upto the water-filter's base but no water was exiting thru the outflow line, which leads to the Ice-Maker and Dispenser. I had tried changing the filter but that didn't solve the problem it was then I had realized that the Base was the problem. The actual problem was the spring-loaded valves for both the intake and outflow lines, which had a plastic prong that protrudes out of the base that is triggered by the filter when installed. The two prongs were worn-down so the filter wasn't activating the spring-loaded release valve to let the water thru. As for the light, I just unscrewed it.
Read more...
Your Price
$37.33
Defrost Timer - 60Hz 120V
Pulled plug.
Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be removed.
Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.
Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.
Removed old badly corroded thermostat.
I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.
Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.
Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.
Plugged back in and everying is working great! Read more...
PartSelect Number PS423801
Manufacturer Part Number 215846602
This Defrost Timer works like a clock by switching on the defrost heater circuit after a predetermined amount of compressor run time. This allows the defrost circuit to clear the evaporator of ice or frost to maintain proper airflow. The defrost timer is located in the control housing which is in the refrigerator section of your appliance. If this part is not working, it can lead to temperature increases in your refrigerator. If the compressor circuit fails, no cooling will take place; if the defrost circuit isn't activated, ice will quickly build up on the evaporator coils and reduce airflow and efficiency. If the timer doesn't advance or if the contacts have no continuity, the timer will need to be replaced. This timer measures approximately 3 inches long and 2.5 inches wide, and is constructed of plastic and metal. It comes in black/white/silver and is sold individually. This replacement part features 1 defrost timer.
Fixes these symptoms
- Freezer not defrosting
- Freezer section too warm
- Freezer too cold
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Stephen from Warrington, PA
Fridge got warm and freezer coils were frosted
Fridge is a side by side. The freezer is pretty narrow for a guy with wide shoulders. Pulled plug.
Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be removed.
Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.
Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.
Removed old badly corroded thermostat.
I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.
Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.
Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.
Plugged back in and everying is working great! Read more...
Your Price
$46.20
Evaporator Fan Blade
2. Remove the back panel. The evaporator motor and fan are located above the coils.
3. Unplug the wiring harness.
4. Remove the two gold mounting screws holding the motor and fan in place.
5. Remove the motor and fan including the brackets.
6. Install the new motor and fan onto the mounting bracket.
6a. Attach the green ground to the mounting bracket.
7. Screw the two gold screws back into the freezer.
8. Attach the new wiring harness. Note, the old harness had a mounting hole/space for it to connect to the wiring harness of the freezer. The new motor's harness was not long enough for this, so it is connected freely to the freezer harness.
9. Use the hair dryer to melt any ice that may have formed on the coils and hole where the fan goes.
10. Turn the freezer on to see if the fan turns on.
11. Reinstall the back panel.
All done! Read more...
PartSelect Number PS473177
Manufacturer Part Number 5308000010
This evaporator fan blade is a genuine OEM part that is sourced directly from the manufacturer. The evaporator fan blade circulates air through the refrigerator to control the amount of cold air goes that goes to internal compartments of the unit. It may need to be replaced if the fridge is noisy or not cold enough. This part is made of plastic and is sold individually. It will be necessary to disconnect power to the refrigerator and empty the freezer compartment of the refrigerator. The tools needed to complete this repair are a 1/4 inch nut driver and a pair of needle nose pliers.
Fixes these symptoms
- Fridge too warm
- Noisy
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Jordan from Maumee, OH
Noisy fan
1. Removed the 7 nuts using the nut driver from the freezer back panel inside the freezer.2. Remove the back panel. The evaporator motor and fan are located above the coils.
3. Unplug the wiring harness.
4. Remove the two gold mounting screws holding the motor and fan in place.
5. Remove the motor and fan including the brackets.
6. Install the new motor and fan onto the mounting bracket.
6a. Attach the green ground to the mounting bracket.
7. Screw the two gold screws back into the freezer.
8. Attach the new wiring harness. Note, the old harness had a mounting hole/space for it to connect to the wiring harness of the freezer. The new motor's harness was not long enough for this, so it is connected freely to the freezer harness.
9. Use the hair dryer to melt any ice that may have formed on the coils and hole where the fan goes.
10. Turn the freezer on to see if the fan turns on.
11. Reinstall the back panel.
All done! Read more...
Your Price
$80.61
Evaporator Fan Motor Kit
2. Remove the back panel. The evaporator motor and fan are located above the coils.
3. Unplug the wiring harness.
4. Remove the two gold mounting screws holding the motor and fan in place.
5. Remove the motor and fan including the brackets.
6. Install the new motor and fan onto the mounting bracket.
6a. Attach the green ground to the mounting bracket.
7. Screw the two gold screws back into the freezer.
8. Attach the new wiring harness. Note, the old harness had a mounting hole/space for it to connect to the wiring harness of the freezer. The new motor's harness was not long enough for this, so it is connected freely to the freezer harness.
9. Use the hair dryer to melt any ice that may have formed on the coils and hole where the fan goes.
10. Turn the freezer on to see if the fan turns on.
11. Reinstall the back panel.
All done! Read more...
PartSelect Number PS450319
Manufacturer Part Number 5300158289
The evaporator fan motor kit is specifically made for your refrigerator to run the evaporator fan in your refrigerator. It is mounted on the center hub and has three lead wire terminals; its shaft has a diameter of 1/8 inches and is 1-1/4 inches long. The function of the evaporator fan motor is that it supplies air to the evaporator coils which then circulate cool air throughout your refrigerator, efficiently keeping your fresh food compartment cold. The tools you will need for this installation include a 1/4 inch nut driver, and a pair of wire strippers. Keep your hands protected during this repair by wearing work gloves.
Fixes these symptoms
- Freezer section too warm
- Fridge too warm
- Noisy
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Jordan from Maumee, OH
Noisy fan
1. Removed the 7 nuts using the nut driver from the freezer back panel inside the freezer.2. Remove the back panel. The evaporator motor and fan are located above the coils.
3. Unplug the wiring harness.
4. Remove the two gold mounting screws holding the motor and fan in place.
5. Remove the motor and fan including the brackets.
6. Install the new motor and fan onto the mounting bracket.
6a. Attach the green ground to the mounting bracket.
7. Screw the two gold screws back into the freezer.
8. Attach the new wiring harness. Note, the old harness had a mounting hole/space for it to connect to the wiring harness of the freezer. The new motor's harness was not long enough for this, so it is connected freely to the freezer harness.
9. Use the hair dryer to melt any ice that may have formed on the coils and hole where the fan goes.
10. Turn the freezer on to see if the fan turns on.
11. Reinstall the back panel.
All done! Read more...
Your Price
$151.89
Refrigerator Ice Maker Assembly
PartSelect Number PS12364147
Manufacturer Part Number 241798231
This 8-cube ice maker is used to create ice for your refrigerator. The ice maker receives water from the water inlet valve and will freeze until ice cubes are formed. Once the water has been frozen the cubes will be ejected from the mold in to the ice bucket. The ice maker will continue the process until the ice bucket has reached the limit. If your ice maker is not making ice you may need to replace this part. Please remember to disconnect the power and water supply before starting your repair. This ice maker is a genuine OEM part.
Fixes these symptoms
- Ice maker not making ice
- Ice maker won’t dispense ice
- Leaking
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Juan from Miami, FL
Broken ice maker
Unplugged faulty ice maker, removed two screws holding it to the refrigerator and took it out. Reversed the operation with the new ice maker and after a few minutes presto, we have ice.
Read more...
Your Price
$51.70
Run Capacitor
PartSelect Number PS2333670
Manufacturer Part Number 5304464438
The run capacitor helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature in your fridge and freezer. You may need to replace your run capacitor if your refrigerator or freezer section will not start, if they are too warm, or if your refrigerator has become too noisy. Replacing the run capacitor is a relatively easy project. For this repair you will only need a 1/4 inch nut driver and needle nose pliers. Remember to disconnect the power and water supply line to the unit before you begin this repair. For full step by step instructions, simply click on the video below.
Fixes these symptoms
- Clicking sound
- Doesn’t stop running
- Freezer section too warm
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Jim Meeks from Wimberly, TX
The controller (current relay) burned up
1. Unhooked a retaining wire that secures the controller to the compressor terminal box. 2. removed destroyed part. 3. Got the model and serial numbers and got online. 4. Ordered part 5. Waited a couple of weeks to get part 6. Found that the manufacturer had daisy chained a bunch of components together with some funny deep socket plugs that by themselves are not routinely found so rather than buy a laundry list of unnecessary parts to get the aforementioned plus and make my customer wait a couple of more weeks I chose to connect the wires to a couple of high temperature female stainless steel quick connectors and feed the wires directly into the controller. Fortunately the controller had the polarity marked on the housing. (L for Line was the hot lead and C was for common the neutral lead) Failure to follow proper polarity will damage the part and could kill the compressors's start wimding.
Read more...
Your Price
$30.22
Defrost Thermostat
Pulled plug.
Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be removed.
Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.
Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.
Removed old badly corroded thermostat.
I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.
Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.
Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.
Plugged back in and everying is working great! Read more...
PartSelect Number PS469269
Manufacturer Part Number 5303917954
This limiter thermostat cuts out when the temperature inside your refrigerator reaches 55 degrees Fahrenheit and kicks back in when the internal temperature drops to 20 degrees Fahrenheit. If you discover temperature issues with your refrigerator or freezer, the defrost thermostat may need to be replaced. You will need tools for this repair, including a 1/4-inch nut driver, a pair of wire strippers, and a heat gun. Be sure to disconnect power to the refrigerator before completing this repair. The defrost thermostat is located behind the back panel of your side-by-side refrigerator/freezer. You will first need to remove the panel and take the defrost thermostat out to complete the repair.
Fixes these symptoms
- Freezer not defrosting
- Freezer section too warm
- Freezer too cold
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Stephen from Warrington, PA
Fridge got warm and freezer coils were frosted
Fridge is a side by side. The freezer is pretty narrow for a guy with wide shoulders. Pulled plug.
Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be removed.
Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.
Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.
Removed old badly corroded thermostat.
I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.
Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.
Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.
Plugged back in and everying is working great! Read more...
Your Price
$8.04
Door Shelf End Cap - Left or Right Side
When the defrost timer is advanced to the defrost cycle the switch closes sending power to the defrost thermostat. If the temperature is low enough, the defrost thermostat switch will close and sends power to the heating elements. When the temperature rises high enough about 55 degrees the switch at the thermostat will open and the heating elements will turn off (not allowing the freezer temperature to get too high, just enough to defrost the coil). The refrigerator will turn back on when the timer advances. The defrost timer will defrost every 8-12 hours. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS422444
Manufacturer Part Number 215267701
This end cap can be used for the right or left side of the refrigerator door shelf or the freezer door shelf. It is white in color, made of plastic material and measures about 2 inches high by 3 inches deep. This might need to be replaced if it has broken or worn over time. This repair requires no tools. You will need to open your fridge, pull upwards on the existing end cap, and pull outwards. There is a locking tab on either end so it does not matter if the top or bottom comes out first. Slide the new end cap onto the rail and it is installed.
Installation Instructions
David from Fleetwood, PA
Freezer / refrigerator warm (not defrosting)
I checked the defrost timer (bottom front of the freezer / outside). I advanced it to send it into the defrost cycle. The heating elements in the freezer (behind the panel) did not heat up. I cut the wires going to the defrost thermostat. Turned the power back on, made sure the defrost timer was still in the defrost cycle and checked the voltage at the wires to the defrost thermostat (before the heating elements). There was power / voltage there. I jumped out / bypassed the defrost thermostat turned the power back on and the heating elements came on. The problem was the defrost thermostat. So I replaced it with a new one from PartSelect.com. How it works...When the defrost timer is advanced to the defrost cycle the switch closes sending power to the defrost thermostat. If the temperature is low enough, the defrost thermostat switch will close and sends power to the heating elements. When the temperature rises high enough about 55 degrees the switch at the thermostat will open and the heating elements will turn off (not allowing the freezer temperature to get too high, just enough to defrost the coil). The refrigerator will turn back on when the timer advances. The defrost timer will defrost every 8-12 hours. Read more...
Your Price
$8.91
Door Shelf End Cap - Left or Right Side
The refrigerator and freezer door gaskets were the first step. They were easy to swap out. You just need to empty the door of all food items, then pull back the old gasket to see the screws. There are alot of them. You should leave 2 loosened screws on each side of the refrigerator door to hold the panel in place while you work and remove the rest. Then you can remove the old gasket and slide the new one into place. Make sure as you tighten the screws and replace the ones you removed, the new gasket fits into the door panel groove securely and is in place as you tighen the screws. Make sure it is in place all the way around the door as you work. You repeat the procedure for the freezer using only one loosened screw on each side to keep the interior panel in place while you work. It takes some time due to the number of screws, but the work is pretty easy. I never even broke a nail.
The end caps for the shelf bars just snap into place just as the old ones can be snapped out with a bit of pressure. They do not have to be wrestled and you need to work carefully so that you do not break them. (I ordered an extra just in case, but I didn't need it. I will have it in case I need it in the future)
My electric bill dropped from $450 to $110 a month with all the improvements I made. Thank you Part Select for taking the fear of screwing it up, out of the repair process and making it manageable. I can afford my electric bill now. Thanks for your help. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS422925
Manufacturer Part Number 215473602
The door shelf end cap, or door bin support, secures the rack in a refrigerator or freezer door. Note that this fits on either the left or right hand side. If the end caps of your refrigerator or freezer are broken or cracked, or if your food retainer bar is not staying in place, then replacing the door support can solve this problem. No tools are needed for this repair project. To repair, first remove the end cap by pushing upward or downwards to slide it out the end of the rail. Next, replace with new end cap and line it up to clip it back onto the rail. It comes in white and measures about two inches high. Remember to wear gloves for safety.
Installation Instructions
Lynn from New York,, NY
My electric bill was super high. $450 for 1 month for a 1bdrm apt in NY city
I took a look at the web site where I purchased the parts, then I took a look at the paper enclosed with the order. Thankfully, I have a battery operated screw driver since there are so many screws. There are plenty of screws in my refrigerator and freezer doors. I thought that since my old door gaskets were all chewed up looking, if I changed them, the 10 year old air conditioners and the old fashioned light bulbs to instant on energy saver light bulbs, the electric bill would become more manageable. The refrigerator and freezer door gaskets were the first step. They were easy to swap out. You just need to empty the door of all food items, then pull back the old gasket to see the screws. There are alot of them. You should leave 2 loosened screws on each side of the refrigerator door to hold the panel in place while you work and remove the rest. Then you can remove the old gasket and slide the new one into place. Make sure as you tighten the screws and replace the ones you removed, the new gasket fits into the door panel groove securely and is in place as you tighen the screws. Make sure it is in place all the way around the door as you work. You repeat the procedure for the freezer using only one loosened screw on each side to keep the interior panel in place while you work. It takes some time due to the number of screws, but the work is pretty easy. I never even broke a nail.
The end caps for the shelf bars just snap into place just as the old ones can be snapped out with a bit of pressure. They do not have to be wrestled and you need to work carefully so that you do not break them. (I ordered an extra just in case, but I didn't need it. I will have it in case I need it in the future)
My electric bill dropped from $450 to $110 a month with all the improvements I made. Thank you Part Select for taking the fear of screwing it up, out of the repair process and making it manageable. I can afford my electric bill now. Thanks for your help. Read more...
Your Price
$64.93
Door Shelf Retainer Bar - Cut to Fit
When the defrost timer is advanced to the defrost cycle the switch closes sending power to the defrost thermostat. If the temperature is low enough, the defrost thermostat switch will close and sends power to the heating elements. When the temperature rises high enough about 55 degrees the switch at the thermostat will open and the heating elements will turn off (not allowing the freezer temperature to get too high, just enough to defrost the coil). The refrigerator will turn back on when the timer advances. The defrost timer will defrost every 8-12 hours. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS422630
Manufacturer Part Number 215366002
This is a white cut-to-fit door shelf retainer bar.
Installation Instructions
David from Fleetwood, PA
Freezer / refrigerator warm (not defrosting)
I checked the defrost timer (bottom front of the freezer / outside). I advanced it to send it into the defrost cycle. The heating elements in the freezer (behind the panel) did not heat up. I cut the wires going to the defrost thermostat. Turned the power back on, made sure the defrost timer was still in the defrost cycle and checked the voltage at the wires to the defrost thermostat (before the heating elements). There was power / voltage there. I jumped out / bypassed the defrost thermostat turned the power back on and the heating elements came on. The problem was the defrost thermostat. So I replaced it with a new one from PartSelect.com. How it works...When the defrost timer is advanced to the defrost cycle the switch closes sending power to the defrost thermostat. If the temperature is low enough, the defrost thermostat switch will close and sends power to the heating elements. When the temperature rises high enough about 55 degrees the switch at the thermostat will open and the heating elements will turn off (not allowing the freezer temperature to get too high, just enough to defrost the coil). The refrigerator will turn back on when the timer advances. The defrost timer will defrost every 8-12 hours. Read more...
Appliance Type
Related Parts
- Tappan Refrigerator Compressors
- Tappan Refrigerator Door Shelves
- Tappan Refrigerator Drawers and Glides
- Tappan Refrigerator Hardware
- Tappan Refrigerator Hinges
- Tappan Refrigerator Hoses and Tubes
- Tappan Refrigerator Ice Makers
- Tappan Refrigerator Seals and Gaskets
- Tappan Refrigerator Switches
- Tappan Refrigerator Thermostats
- Tappan Refrigerator Trays and Shelves
Popular Tappan Refrigerator Models
Below are the most popular Tappan Refrigerator models we have. Enter your model number in the search box to find your model.
- TRT15L2JW0 Top Freezer
- TRT15L2JW6
- TRT15L2JW4
- TRT15L2JW3
- TRT16NRHW1 Top Freezer
- TRS20WRHW4 Side-by-side
- TRT15DRAW0 Top Freezer, Top Mount
- TRT16NRHW2 Top Freezer
- TRS20WRHW5 Side-by-side
- TRT17NRBW0 Top Freezer, Top Mount
- TRS20WRHW1 Side-by-side
- TRT18NREW0 Top Freezer, Top Mount
- TRT18GREW4 Top Freezer
- TRT15DRAW1 Top Freezer, Top Mount
- TRT18NRHW1 Top Freezer
- TRT17CRAW0 Top Freezer, Top Mount
- TRS20WRHD0 Side-by-side
- TRT18GREW1 Top Freezer, Top Mount
- TRT15L2JW5
- TRS20WRHW3 Side-by-side
