Kenmore Cooktop Switches
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Popular Kenmore Cooktop Switches
2. Took off the cover for the center vent and loosened the two screw holding the housing in place--the screws didn't have to come out completely as it is a U-shaped friction hold.
3. Unscrewed the two screws holding the old control switch in ... Read more place--lifted the housing enough to get at the old switch and carefully pulled it loose--it was a front burner so the control switch was about as far back as it could be but still wasn't that hard to get at.
4. Turned the new switch to orient the wire connectors, then, using a needle-nose pliers, removed each friction connector, one at a time, and fitted them on the new switch (note: one of the wires fitted best if it went under as opposed to around the base of the new switch).
5. Replaced the control back through the housing and screwed it in place, making sure the orientation of the control matched the way it looked originally.
6. Slide the housing back over the two screws and tightened, replace vent.
7. Replaced the knob and turned on the power.
(The above took me about twice as long to write as it did to make the repair and I write professionally but am not a professional electrician.)
Also, I bought a second control switch because, given the age of the unit, I'm sure another one will go. The second one will assure that it won't happen :-).
2. Lift range lid.
3. Remove back panel. Loosen the 6 - 1/4" nuts, then lift up slightly, which compresses the "latch" at the top middle. Let down and panel comes off easily.
(Note: Do not remove wires yet)
4. Remove control knob from front panel by pulling gently, exposing ... Read more 2 small tap screws
5. unscrew the 2 small tap screws, freeing the switch.
6. NOTE THE EXISTING WIRING! Each terminal has a letter. Take a photo or drawing for reference, because the new switch's post locations were not the same as the old.
7. In my case I had to replace the terminal block kit with a new one. (don't try the aftermarket one's at Home Depot...bad idea event though they say Hotpoint) so I ran those wires first. Easy removal of old, only one wire clip, then fish the wires through. Secure with tap screw at burner location.
8. Hook up the wires. The ones coming from the burner don't seem to matter which one goes to which post but make sure you're replacing them on the posts that the original were on. What I did was just unhook the old posts one at a time and find the corresponding letter on the new one.
9. Break off stem at length of old switch with pliers. make sure you find where off and on are on the switch. Orient the off at the top, then push through from back of range.
10. Screw the 2 tap screws in, securing the switch.
11. Place the orange retainer oriented with flat side the same as the knob, and push the knob back in place.
12. Close lid, replace back panel
13. Insert drip pan/burner into terminal block and secure in drip pan. If your burner plugs are corroded or exposed, replace the burner as it will short out.
14. Plug in to socket and test before pushing range back into place.
Use a nut driver or Phillips screwdriver. Remove rear panel.
Pull out control knob. If it is stuck, wrap a small rag around the back of it and pull the rag steadily.
Carefully match marked terminals on the replacement switch with those on original. Switch terminals ... Read more may not be in the same location. Replace wires one for one, one at a time.
Carefully select the correct knob filler for the switch post. Several are supplied. Proceed with logic and measure the shaft length and the filler length and type to match.
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